We had bing at the old house, you need two though for pollination. We're going to be getting a sweet cherry here (not sure what the variety it is yet). Last year I picked up a bunch of fresh cherries and it was so amazing to have cherries in the middle of winter that I had canned in a light syrup. After about 6 months though they do start to loose some of that delicious flavour. If you get sour cherry you'll need to be doing something with sugar. So that is something to think about. I think it would depend on what you intend to use the cherries for.

For most cherry trees you will need another close by for pollination I have a self pollinating Stella in Northern VA, so I only need 1. The cherries are a little smaller but delicious.

The sweet cherry I mentioned above that we'll be ordering on Saturday is a self pollinating so if you are interested I can let you know the variety then. It would do fine in your zone whatever it is since I'm in zone 5.

Lapins. It's a self pollinator, firm, dark cherry and should work fine in Zone 6. If you want a light colored self fertile cherry try White Gold.

Yes, I would like to know the name of the cherry tree. I do have an old cherry three that has yellow cherries on it each spring but the cherries are quite small. The tree must be 30 years old, it was there when we purchased the property. That tree might act as a pollinator.l

Ok, I will check on Saturday when I head into town. I feel like it could be Tehranivee. I checked against the description and picture from my fruit tree ad and a list of self pollinating sweet cherries and it seems like the closest match. It does say that with this variety, cracking can be a problem.

We'll also be getting a 4 in 1 tree that has apple, cherry and pear. That's always an option for you if you want to have a smaller quanity but more variety in less space.

I have quite a few young trees now, around 30 and my daughter says "no more". But, I lost two last winter so I have space for at least another tree. I already put in three Japanese Pears this year. We have room for the trees but each tree adds more work!

How do you lose the trees? I have had problems with canker. Out of Cornell they have recently released some cultivars resistant to canker I want to try, The Pearl Series, Ebonypearl Blackpearl, Burgandypearl, and Black York. Tart cherries are easier to grow. The new interesting Bush cherries from Canada are awesome. The Romance series. Carmine Jewel, Crimson Passion, Romeo, Juliet, and Cupid.

Drew,

I'm not sure what killed them. They just didn't thrive so it could be the soil. I have never had it tested. I am planting new trees around an area that had several standard old trees, apple, crabapple, pears, and the one cherry tree. Several of the old trees are also dying so I don't know if that is age or what is causing it. My new trees are doing ok. The winter of 2013-2014 was pretty rough on them. The temp went down to minus 23 degrees and killed a couple young trees. The peach trees were especially hit hard. I only tried once at this place to plant a cherry tree. It was a Montmorency from Adams Nursery. It died after a couple years.

I was just going to say that the last few winters have been horrible. Excessive snow last winter (we had drifts 9 ft high) and extreme cold this winter. Also not sure if your summer was like ours last year but it was very wet, which isn't good for fruit trees. We have some feral apple trees on our property and there was less the half the fruit than we had the year before. Bad couple of years.

That's true, We have always gotten lots of apples from the old trees but not last year. They barely flowered. We don't spray them at all, they're too big but we would still get lots and lots of apples. We too had an excessive wet summer. I put out soaker hoses in the garden and never used them even once. The tomatoes almost all died from too much water.

I'm not sure what will happen this year. Our winter was horrible! I thought it would never end. The pear trees are flowering but not abundantly. The apple trees are just starting and I think the peach trees could almost be badly damaged. I see lots of dead branches on them.

Peaches lose fruit buds past -10, we got to -16, but mine still have some buds. At -18 the wood starts to be damaged. Montmorency is a tough tree, wow! OK, well then I can only suggest Carmine Jewel tart cherry. The toughest of the Romance series rated to Zone2!

Helen Zone 6 Ohio Me too, never watered the garden once the entire summer. The whole year was a gray year. I feel like we didn't have hardly any sunshine for well over a year. I lost 80 tomato plants because of blight with the wettness, blight was bad in a lot of areas of my Province.

I think it's going to be another bad year for fruit farmers in my region. Here it was the coldest winter on record for 80 years. I had poor goat babies being born in -25 c. Even being right there for the birth, with a hair dryer and towels and bringing them into the house as soon as possible we had one guy loose the tips of both his ears. I had to bring a full grown goat and her two babies in my house too because their ears froze. Not sure how but those boys didn't loose their ears.

Where I am everything has just started to bud. I could see the frost damage already from the cold snap a few days ago. :( I'm hoping that when I get my order of fruit trees it stays fairly decent. My neighbor told me that they've had frost as late as mid June in past years!

I went in to town today and got a list of the Cherry they had available. They were supposed to be sweet cherry and even had the sign infront saying sweet cherry, but looking them up they are supposidly sour cherries.
They did have a large Van sweet cherry. I believe it was good to zone 4.
I ended up going with the sour cherry because we couldn't fit a large tree in the car. I bought a Cupid Cherry. Good to zone 2. They also had Juliet Cherry which is also good to zone 2. They are both dwarf varieties.
The cupid is supposidly still good eating fresh and only gets to around 10 ft tall with a 6 ft spread. Harvest is August to September.
I'm actually kicking myself for not getting the Juliet, supposidly the fruit is very delicious. I'm planning on heading back tomorrow to pick it up. It also fruits earlier so I could have one crop and then the next.

I think I'll go to our local Garden Supply Store and check out what they have. You are probably correct in looking for a tree that can withstand pretty cold weather in the winter. It seems that the last two years have hit -20 to -23 degrees. That had not happened in the last 15 years. I'll check to see what they are have. They are local and have been in business for about 40 years. They would probably only carry trees for my area. I don't really have to get a dwarf tree. Most of my trees are moderate size.

I ended up going with the zone 2 ones just because a 2 gallon tree was only $20 and the large trees were $43 and wouldn't fit in the car. I am glad I did get a hardy zone tree though. I'm in zone 5a, but on the cusp of 4b and winters are very heavy in snow and some years very cold, like this year getting down to -25 at least twice, without any windchill. My kids usually loose at least 2 full weeks of school in the winter. I actually think I lost a few of my shrubs this this. Looks like the wood was damaged. The year before the snow drift was around 9 feet. Those shrubs were over 6 feet tall and most of them were busted right in half. I had to prune them all down. I'll have to wait and see, maybe they are just late because of the harsh winter this year. I'm trying to do most of my fruit to a hardier zone just to give it a better shot.
I also picked up some haskap berries, kiwi vine and fig.