Beaucarnea recurvata basic care?
whammytap
9 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (10)
whammytap
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Ponytail palm (Nolina Recurvata)
Comments (32)My Beaucarnea/Nolina lives out all year. I have had it for 17 years. It is not grown as a bonsai. A few years ago we had a run of 'hard-for-us' frosts (-7C) and the top growth was killed right back. I left it alone and the top resprouted with multiple heads. The regrowth is neither as long nor as vigorous as the original head. The top now also looks quite 'craggy' . At most the plant would be about 12" high with a 'trunk' about 6" across at the base. My memory of the root system, from when I repotted about eight years ago, was that it was not vast. Nothing like an Aloe, for example. It is in a terra cotta pot, about 14" high, unglazed and is in a mostly sunny place close to a wooden wall. It gets rained upon. I grow it in a fairly gritty mix and the pot is up on feet and well-drained. If I happen to be passing with a container of liquid fertiliser it gets a splosh but I've not seen startling growth come of it. I have seen pictures of these plants growing in arid conditions - tall trunks - in, I think, zone 10, in what may have been a clay-type soil from its appearance. Dry tropical. It doesn't seem to mind my much wetter zone 9, though. I have others, younger and smaller, growing in plastic pots. So far I have not done any root pruning on any of them. However, when I bought them - bargain remainders at 50c each - they had very few roots as they had been seriously over-watered. It took time and a very gritty mix, along with thrifty watering, for the root system to develop. From that experience I'm wondering if a partial root pruning - half at a time, may be useful for developing gabro's plant. Also growing the plant in a relatively cool environment as a means whereby growth can be reduced while still keeping the plant's form....See MoreRepotting question: Beaucarnea
Comments (2)How large a container should be, or CAN be, depends on the 3-way relationship between plant mass, container size, and soil type, assuming correct watering habits. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic understanding about the 3-way relationship noted, which should logically determine appropriate container size(s). It's often parroted that you should only move up one size in containers when "potting-up". The reasoning is the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the material and soil type/composition that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not consecutive volume progression. Plants grown in slow soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil. This (smaller soil volumes) and the root constriction that accompanies it will cause plants to both extend branches and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have you sights set on. Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that trees rebel at being potted into very large containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a soil that is too slow and water-retentive. We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the PWT in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (saturated). So, if you aim for a soil (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of particles >1/16", there is no upper limit to container size. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient delivery work and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large plant in a very small container if the root have been well managed and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. 2) I don't grow palms, so I'm going to defer to someone who is more familiar with root-work on them, but keep in mind that very few people properly tend to the roots of their long term container plantings, so most will be unfamiliar with the concept of root pruning and will default to how they manage their palms. Al...See MoreBeaucarnea recurvata question
Comments (7)That does look quite different from the plant I have labeled as B. recurvata... however, it doesn't necessarily look too high to me. Josh...See MoreIs this a ponytail palm? Any tips for proper care?
Comments (19)I assume one of my first steps is to get it into different soil. Yes? No? It doesn't necessarily need to be the first step, but it is an important step if you want your plant to thrive instead of just survive. If you think about it for a moment, you'll realize you get a sense of satisfaction from nurturing things. The better you become at nurturing, the greater the level of satisfaction. Very often, the soil your plants are in is the source of serious limitations. If your soil compacts and/or holds too much water, root function and health are impaired, which means your plant is limited in its ability to realize its potential. Root congestion (being root-bound) also limits plants' ability to grow and to function normally; it limits growth and saps a plant's vitality. We see living proof of this when we free a PT from its pot, remove the soil from its roots (I've seen them so rootbound a chisel was required to remove the calcified soil), and repot them into a larger pot and an appropriate soil. Something like this: As soon as the plant has recovered from the repot, it exhibits what most growers would consider to be a growth spurt; but it's not a growth spurt at all. What you see after repotting a root-bound plant or one suffering the limitations associated with a poor soil is the plant returning to a level of vitality (health) it might have been enjoying all along had the grower not neglected the root maintenance required for this plant to 'thrive' in a container. The effects of root congestion start to take a toll on growth rate and the plant's o/a level of vitality at the approximate point in time when the root/soil mass can be lifted from the soil intact, and progresses in a direct relationship with how congested the roots are allowed to become. So, you might think about moving toward a soil you won't have to fight for control of your plant's health in early summer - as in somewhere near the summer solstice (or Father's Day, in the N hemisphere). The one it's in now appears to be extremely water retentive and compacted, so you'll need to be extremely careful not to over-water - especially during the winter; whereas, if the plant was in the soil pictured above, the likelihood you would get into over-watering trouble would be only a tiny fraction of what it appears it would be in the soil your plant is presently in. And is the mossy substance growing on the caudex a bad omen? Any help is greatly appreciated! What happens when you dip a paper towel into a source of water? You can see the water rise up through the paper towel. That's capillary action. The surface of the soil your plant is in is remaining wet for longer than it should. This allows water in the soil to move upward on your plant's caudex and supply a water source that supports the algae or moss that's evident in the picture. While it can't be said with certainty that this evidence is a messenger of ill to come, it is hard evidence you need to be very careful about watering. There are many cases where someone will tell you to avoid watering all winter, because it's better to have your plant suffer the limitations associated with a water deficit than it is to chance over-watering, which can cause root rot. The better advice is to use a soil that eliminates the potential for root rot and allows you to water, so you're also avoiding drought stress. We find the same type of advice when it comes to fertilizing indoor plants in the winter, but that's a topic for another day. You might find this to be of value. Al...See Morewhammytap
9 years agowhammytap
9 years agowhammytap
9 years ago
Related Stories
HOUSEPLANTSGot Bright Light but Lack Spare Time? Try Ponytail Palm
This low-maintenance houseplant has an exotic look and a drought-tolerant nature. Just give it lots of sun
Full StoryHOUSEPLANTS8 Essentials for Healthy Indoor Plants
Houseplants add so much to our homes — and can thrive when grown in the right conditions. Keep these tips in mind
Full Story
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)