Input requested on various rooting methods...
tom_socal
9 years ago
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barb13_gw
9 years agoKimo
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Are these Organic Inputs really that wonderful
Comments (17)Skoka, I guess you're past bed time to answer so fast ! Yes, autodidact, I could have said self taught, but then I'm french and we're pompous and we like to impress with big words ;-) I read the link and honestly it makes me want to buy that ! Concerning the azobacteria, I focused last year on learning about those and found in independant academic research that they are brought to you for free by birds or that one can find them in sediments at the bottom of ponds, lakes, or streams. Which is why I went like a nut in the wet wilderness to gather sediments ;-) To be fully honest, I managed to get a bag of 6 mixed dried glomus sporules (AM Fungi) with much difficulties because they're not used in my country (except for the intradice that is fancied by pot growers). Hence I experimented in my garden on tomatoes with/without, trying to get other parameters as close as possible. Although it wouldn't by far be considered as a true scientific experiment. No difference in growth or production between the toms with 6 glomus and the toms with none. Some great, some lousy, in both groups. I also wonder about the length of time bacteria can stay alive in a liquid. When they are sold dry, they are dormant. Even if I can't see them, I can imagine they're here, ready to spring into life. But in a liquid, they multiply, consume what is around, and then ? Can they go dormant in a liquid ? Or would the buyer get a bottle of useless corpses ? I'm not educated enough to tell you what to do. I'll just tell you what I've been told by my kid who works in mycology and symbiosis research (note that it's myco and not bacterio) : you're allowed to please yourself and waste your money on what you want. I don't want to sound rude, it's just that ungrateful kids show no respect for their mom nowadays ;-) So those were her exact words to me. Anyway if you can give me an Email adress I'll tell her to get in touch. I would feel sorry for you to waste money, time and energy on useless stuff, however satisfying and scientific they sound. Concerning the truth carried by this sort of litterature, well, although I'm still pretty gullible, I tend to have some doubts. I've dealt with corrupted labs in Europe for business and be assured that the most famous and covered with accreditations round here can be bought. I think that one can be sure of results only if one knows personally some honest person Inside. Otherwise, one can never ever be sure. Sorry if it's disappointing, but unfortunately, money runs the world and not many people are unbuyable. I don't know what else I can say and I don't want to sound like a depressive cynical old bag, especially to an enthusiastic young smart person like you. So perhaps it's great for you to go ahead and try. Anyway anything organic will be better than ruining your environment while greasing evil foreign companies....See MoreNew year, new house. Tree selection input requested.
Comments (56)Just sitting here nodding in agreement with a lot of posts. I think the most important thing at this point is to look at your property and decide the functions you will use it for down the road so you don't ruin the space when you get around to addressing it. Yes, leave access for getting trucks and machinery to various parts of the property, even on three acres. Especially on three acres you plan to fill generously with trees. Yes on considering some groves and avoiding onesie-twosies and when the tree bug bites you, and it will, it's very enticing to want 'one of everything' and three of nothing and the visuals on that can be busy and disjointed. You have a big house, and need to consider proportions so that the trees planted near it don't come off looking dwarfed and the house monstrous. We have an epidemic here of mini-mansions festooned with dwarf weeping cherry trees, the branches pruned abruptly like a bowl haircut. We also found it more logical to start close and move out with our plantings. Although we are not close to any other dwellings, I use plantings as visual blockades to scenes I don't care to see and for privacy, so do look out your windows in the general direction of any tree you consider planting to make sure it DOESN'T block what you want to see, and does what you don't want to see. Yes I do plant trees to block sun for the shading effect. If they are deciduous, blocking sunlight isn't an issue in winter and it has a tremendous impact in summer to keep our stucco over brick house cool. It sort of amazed me to see someone mention leasing solar panels. You lease from them for your power, or they lease from you for the exposure and buy the power you generate? In our neck of the woods, it would be a company wanting to sink an oil well, instead. LOL. I have a perfect south facing roof area, but any solar panels ever getting there would be self-financed and simply supplemental in their efficiency. I don't have central air, and having a boiler heat am not interested in retrofitting ducts to accomodate it. Trees size so much more quickly than you think. I have some aerial shots of our property taken fifteen years apart and it's astounding at the amount of canopy we have now, compared to then. Our annual rainfall is adequate for most of our plantings and we have installed some freeze proof spigots away from the house, but I got a chuckle over the remark of 100 gallon tanks for watering. Tried that one year and .........well....despite how large a tractor you have, you'd better have more than a trailer behind it to pull your water tank. The center of gravity shifts in liquid loads. It ain't purty. Yes on buying small for most trees. They establish more readily and catch up with the bigger, more expensive ones quite quickly. I've had just as good success with B and B, but really the only reason I got the ones I did was I couldn't find them container. This is going to take years and it never really gets done. That's as it should be and part of the adventure. I can honestly say I've never had to rip a tree out because of poor placement. Nobody shares the exact gardening philosophy and what's right for me might not be right for you as far as pleasing to the senses. Over the years I have found I've been much more pleased with a tree whose needs have been met than one unsuitable for the growing conditions. A healthy and robust, easy care tree is often more beautiful than one which you much struggle to keep happy. Remember it's a lot easier to attend to correcting things like improper branch angles than addressing the problems they cause down the road. Have fun with it and enjoy the journey, too....See MoreDifferent Methods of Adding Organic Matter
Comments (8)My way is the same as Jay's and Diane's, except for new beds. I do use a rototiller in new beds. If all you ever do is apply mulch, compost, or even organic fertilizers, etc. as a 'side dressing' on the ground around your plants, those materials will be carried down into the soil over time. Rain carries some of the ingredients down into the ground, earthworms and other soil-dwelling critters do the rest. When you pull weeds, that action allows some of the upper mulch type materials to go down into the soil and the same thing happens when you use a trowel to plant things. If you never do anything but pile mulch up on the surface of the ground for the rest of your life, you'll still end up with great soil. I'll use our woodland as an example. We have very thick, dense red clay on all of our property. In a few cases, the clay is deeper down and there's a shallow layer of sand or silt on top of it. In most of the area, all we have is that red clay. In the woodland, though, we have about 8-10" of dark brownish-black, rich, humusy soil that is incredible. It has formed, of course, from the decomposition of leaves, wood, and even the bodies of insects and animals that die in the woods and decay there. No one (except, perhaps, the armadilloes or squirrels while digging) goes into the woods and rototills the organic matter into the clay subsoil every year, but over time the nutrients from that humusy soil work their way down into the clay too and even improve it. I do have a little Mantis cultivator that I sometimes like to use to work large amounts of organic matter into a vegetable bed that is being rennovated during the off season, but I know I shouldn't ever use it except when amending new soil. Rototilling or even heavy digging destroy the structure of the soil and neither one is especially good for it because they can lead to compaction. When earthworms and other soil dwellers, including all the various forms of microscopic life in the soil, tunnel through the soil, they leave little tunnel-like passageways that allow moisture, roots, and nutrients to move easily through the soil. These little passageways are an important part of soil structure, so the less we disturb our soil, the better it is. I used to think I had to rototill every bed before planting every year because that's what we did when I was growing up. It has taken me a long time to come to the realization that the less I disturb already-amended soil, the better for it. Nowadays, I try to focus on mulching, mulching, mulching. I bet I add at least 12" of mulch to each garden bed each year (over the course of the season, not all in one day)because I use a lot of ingredients like grass clippings from our lawn, old spoiled hay or straw, and chopped/shredded leaves and they break down and decompose very quickly, feeding the soil in the process. I'd be surprised if the cow manure burnt your bulbs' foliage, especially if you were using standard bagged cow manure that was not labeled "100% Cow Manure". Most bagged cow manure sold nowadays (except the Black Kow brand) is not 100% manure and is, instead, lots of filler, and the filler usually is very poor quality black clay. Most bagged cow manure has "up to 10% manure" so you probably couldn't burn plants with it if you tried. I've added large amounts of Black Kow 100% manure with no fillers to my garden beds and never have had it burn plants. If 100% cow manure won't burn plants, I don't think 10% would. Whatever happened to your plants, I don't think it was the fault of the manure. I've never added really fresh "local" manure to my beds because it has to be composted first in order to kill all the weed seeds and by the time it is composted there's nothing in it that would harm plants. However, because of all the issues with herbicide contamination, I don't use local manure any more because the ranchers here routinely use purchased hay to supplement their own pasture forage, and there's no telling what herbicides might have been sprayed on those purchased bales of hay when it was grown. If I used manure (any manure) and had issues develop after that, I'd be more likely to suspect herbicide contamination than to blame the manure itself. If your beds need nutrition now, I'd top dress the soil with a good organic fertilizer, and pile mulch on top of it so that rain (if it ever rains again) and irrigation water will carry the materials into the ground. If you don't mulch on top of the top-dressed fertilizers, they can be washed away by heavy rainfall or irrigation. You can, of course, use a hand trowel to work the organic matter deeper into the soil, but it is a lot of unnecessary work because the organic matter will get worked in over time. I just top dressed my onion beds this past week and will mulch them as soon as the wind stops blowing 25-40 mph which probably won't be until Tuesday. I wish I already had mulched them, but you have to work with the weather you have, and this windy weather is making it hard to get things done outside. If I tried to mulch yesterday, today, or even tomorrow, my mulch would end up blowing into another state. Dawn...See MoreTomatoes: Germination to Harvest - Opinions & Post your methods!
Comments (10)Use Jump Start peat pellet system to start seedlings. Use a 3 Tube fluorescent fixture using power twist 5500k 48" tubes modified to hold an additional 6 CFL 25 watt 6000k lights. Use styrofoam slabs of varying thickness to adjust the height of the seedlings in relation to the lights. When seedlings are 4" tall I transplant to 4" Dot Pots or Cow Pots which are biodegradable using Fox Farms "Light Warrior" planting mix which has ferts and Mycorhiza added. I put the pots on stands in front of my South facing window till I'm ready to plant them.. Nice thing about the biodegradable pots is when I get ready to set out the plants they get planted as well so you don't have transplant shock. When I do plant my seedlings whether it be in containers or the earth I make up a dip solution containing "Biota Max", "Actinovate" and "MycoGrow Soluable" in which I submerge the pots in for 10 seconds, allow to drain back into the bucket and plant.These three products will help protect the roots from disease and help a form symbiotic relationship between the roots and the growing medium to enhance nutrient uptake of the plant. I do amend my grow bed and aggregate I use for my containers with organic ferts and lime in preparation for planting. During the course of the growing season I do add liquid ferts as a soil drench and foliar as well. When growing in containers it is very important to replace the nutrients used up by the plant during the course of the growing season. I also add molasses to the foliar solution as a spreader/staicker as well. For foliar disease control I have had good results using a mix of Actinovate and Agri Fos (EXEL LG) applied during the course of the growing season depending on the weather conditions. Tomatoes don't like wet feet so water accordingly but don't let them get to the point of wilting which will stress the plant which can cause BER among other things. Ami...See Moretom_socal
9 years agobarb13_gw
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9 years agoLoveplants2 8b Virginia Beach, Virginia
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9 years agomoonie_57 (8 NC)
9 years agoKimo
9 years agotom_socal
9 years agobarb13_gw
9 years agorox146
9 years agobarb13_gw
9 years agorox146
9 years agobarb13_gw
9 years agomoonie_57 (8 NC)
9 years agobarb13_gw
9 years agomoonie_57 (8 NC)
9 years agobarb13_gw
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agogidgetsocal
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9 years ago
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