I know this is ridiculously late (like a year!), but, in case you haven't had this question answered, the grass you see here is Kentucky 31 Fescue, AKA "Pasture Grass". VERY common here in the Kansas City area, especially the suburb areas (which used to be pasture land!) When you buy TTTF fescue here in the midwest, you get half K-31. It's ugly, and extremely tough. It's what they use to seed Football fields. Almost indestructible. I have seen people kill it with boiling water. It's about the only thing that works. The only way it looks good is if you lawn is 100% K-31, you mow it 4.5" tall, and you're viewing it from 100' away. My front yard is mostly TTTF, back yard is 50/50 TTTF and K-31. (where the Grand-kids play baseball... Can't kill that stuff!) Bill

>How big of an area are you talking about?Rather small, actually. It's a small strip alongside the driveway, measuring something like 5' x 10'. >I'm going to go back to TW's first post and suggest that your friend should learn to love Bermuda.I suppose he could learn to love dandelions, oxalis and crabgrass as well, but that's really not an ideal suggestion for my fescue lawn or garden beds growing alongside it. I can't understand anyone who *chooses* to grow Bermuda grass. It's invasive to every other part of your landscape, ugly (compared to fescue anyway) and turns a lovely shade of brownish gray in the winter. :( Solarization sounds like the most effective choice, but lord, having a dead lawn next door for the next year hardly has me dancing for joy. But I appreciate the suggestions.

Wow, Thank you everyone! And yes, I did spray for broad leaf weeds.. my bad :) but I was reaching! Skeleton weed, wow, that MIGHT be it (from looking at Google images)!! I did notice some in a field that had purple flowers as well as white flowers. NICE CALL! Excuse my botanical ignorance, but when you guys say extension office, what do you mean? I did email someone at A&M and Texas Tech too to see if I get a response. Thank you everyone! Now, to find something that will kill this thing. Maybe I can post the other photos I snapped tonight.

Don't do that unless you have a soil test which shows your soil is short of boron. Boron is an essential micronutrient, but it has a fragile limit. Up to a point, it's good. Just beyond that point it becomes a soil sterilizer where nothing grows. The weed company should at least be able to ID the weed. If they can't then no wonder they can't get rid of it. I would consider (strongly) getting rid of a weed control company that cannot ID a weed while looking right at it. St Augustine is a very salt tolerant grass. Many grasses and grassy weeds, including crabgrass and dallisgrass, can be killed with baking soda. St Augustine seems to survive baking soda. The method of application is very specific to make it work. You can try this and see if it works. Mix some shampoo and some molasses (1 TBSP each) into a pint of water. Put some baking soda into a sock. Spray the weeds with the soapy water. You should not see water beading up on the weed blades. If the water beads up, then use more soap and spray again. Next, while the grass is wet, hold the sock close over the weeds and squeeze the sock. A very fine dust of baking soda will drift out and land on the wet weeds. DO NOT inhale the dust or get it in your eyes. It is very uncomfortable. If there is a slight breeze, you should be upwind of the weeds. It's easy to completely coat the plants with white baking soda. I don't think you need nearly that much. I'm not certain why this works but I have a working theory. Baking soda is a non selective fungicide. Many plants have a protective layer of a fungus which keeps things off and makes the plant uninteresting for predators. It also results in hydrophobia (water beading up on the plant). The purpose of the shampoo and molasses is to make the dust stick to the weed. With the dust stuck to the blades, it can go to work as a fungicide and attack the plant. It should die in a few hours. Surfactants are often called "stickers" in the ag business, because they make a product stick to the plant. But if the sticker dries first, it won't stick, so you're going to be juggling the sticker and the sock. The sock works like a very very fine sieve. Squeezing it contains the baking soda and lets some out without dumping a load of baking soda all at once. Too much baking soda on the soil is not a good thing either. So the baking soda dust sticks to the wet plant, kills the protective fungal layer, then the excessive sodium directly on the plant kills the plant. Here is an illustration of the results. It looks pretty bad, but I think it was mostly crabgrass in the area.