Short season/cool climate growers: ever done this?
wormgirl_8a_WA
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
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wormgirl_8a_WA
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Fuzzy kiwi success in my short season
Comments (26)Mescalito, a seedling better tasting than Hort16a? I doubt you are so lucky. All my Hort16a seedlings were clearly worse than Hort16a. Anyway, they were good taste. Scott, taking into account the males are mainly selected for a profuse flowering, good quality pollen and good synchronization with the female, it is not important if it is son of a poor quality fruit female. Its mission is to pollinate the female, not to transmit a good inheritance to the seeds. Because of this, I didn't surprise when I saw the small fruits on my seedlings. Moreover, Hort16a is an small size fruit compared with Hayward. Frequently they are helped in commercial orchards with bio-stimulants to increase the fruit size. I have seen amateur Hort16a plants and their fruits rarely exceed 100 grs. Regarding this, see what is said in the pay-per-view document "âÂÂHort16Aâ Kiwifruit: Progress and Issues with Commercialisation": "The biostimulant BenefitPZ is commonly used following fruit set to enhance growth rates of Hort16A fruit. Rates as high as 3.5 g per day have been reported (Lawes, 2001), and as a consequence, the fruit size distribution at harvest can be markedly shifted toward the larger fruit sizes. This biostimulant has had a significant influence on the commercial development of Hort16A and is now used widely among Hort16A growers. In contrast, the biostimulant has not been shown to have such beneficial effects on Hayward fruit growth. Yields of 10-12000 trays/ha (30-36 t/ha) are readily achieved for Hort16A with fruit size in the range 80-140 g" If you see a 140 grs Hort16a fruits tray in a grocery store, be sure they have been biostimulated....See MoreClimate Change increasing growing seasons?
Comments (15)Aftermidnight, maybe it's bad luck. Some trees suffer from dry conditions in summer... or could it be pest? They are strong trees for zone 8. Gulf island specimen: http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aVi8TKi April was cool on average. Actually the 3rd coolest (on record) on the island which was a bad surprise. But the La Nina winter was rather benign in Greater Victoria, milder than most La Ninas. The lower mainland did see wet snow like in classic La Ninas. Victoria would be on the fringe during those days but no lows like the previous winter which was the coldest in a decade. That did help me understand what I could work with in Greater Victoria. I would observe broadleaf evergreens and flowering plants during and after the cold spells. The cold used to occur more often but by the time I had moved to Victoria the colder lows were already further apart. I've noticed that many conifers in Greater Victoria are dying. I think it relates to the drought summers that have occurred more often in later decades. Here is a link that might be useful: Pruned specimen in Vancouver...See MoreStarting/Planting Cool Season Crops
Comments (19)Carol, I bet it did grow well there in spite of the short growing season. I'm assuming they started their transplants indoors to get them large enough to plant out once the temps were in the appropriate range. And it is the exposure to sunlight that made the celery so green. Most commercially-raised celery is that whitish-green because the celery is blanched. I think the blanching is intended to keep the stalks tender as too much sunlight/heat gives you tougher stalks. Seedmama, Here's how Jeff Cox grows celery: GROWING CELERY: Several years ago I purchased a book by Jeff Cox called "Jeff Cox's 100 Greatest Garden Ideas". It is a terific book and I love it. One of his ideas is a way to grow celery even if you can't give it the marshy conditions it prefers. If I ever tried to grow celery here, I'd try Jeff's method. To start his seeds, he sows them 10 weeks before his last frost. He soaks his seed overnight before sowing them in peat pots and setting them on top of the fridge so the heat can help them sprout, which can take 2 weeks or longer. He digs a below-grade trench about a foot wide and 14" deep although he says you can do the same process with a raised bed if you'd rather build up than dig down. If growing in a raised bed, he recommends a minimum height of 6" and cautions anything raised any higher may get too hot for the celery. You still need 14" of depth, but with the 6" tall raised bed, you only have to dig down 8" instead of the whole 14". You remove the soil to a depth of 14" for the trench or 8" beneath the eventual raised bed and remove all the soil. Add compost and other organic amendments to create an enriched growing mix that will hold lots of moisure and refill the trench or, for the raised bed, refill the dug-out area and build the 6" tall raised bed above it. By the way, he recommends six celery plants per person. If you want, you can add tin cans with the tops and bottoms both removed or pieces of PVC pipe inserted vertically into the ground about to the same depth that your celery is planted, or a couple of inches deeper than that. To water, fill each can or piece of pipe with water and let the pipe carry the water down to the root level of the celery plants. In the illustration in the book, he has one vertical can or PVC pipe in between two celery plants in a sort of checkerboard pattern. (Texas tomato plant growers use this method to water tomatoes, only they use large flower pots or huge, instituitional-sized cans, to water the tomato plants...it is called the Texas Pot method.) After you harden off your seedlings, transplant them into the enriched soil which you've pre-moistened so it it nice and damp. He waters his transplants with an organic fertilizer consisting of 1 T. fish emulsion and 2 T. seaweed extract per one gallon of water. Mulch the top of the bed with leaves. As the plans grow keep adding leaves so the stalks are blanched. Blanching celery stalks (but not their topgrowth leaves which need sunlight to grow) helps improve their flavor and keep them tender. This is especially important in a hotter climate where heat stress can cause the stalks to get woody and tough. He recommends feeding monthly and watering as often as needed to keep the bed moist and damp but not soaking wet. His recommendation is that you harvest the plants roots and all before frost arrives in the fall. Store them in a box in a cool basement or similar area. If the storage area stays cool enough, celery will store for months. You also could store them in an extra fridge in your garage or laundry room or whatever. If you ever run across Jeff's book, it is a wonderful book with projects grouped by the season. Dawn...See MorePlanting Tips For Cool-Season Crops
Comments (15)jcheckers - Thanks for bumping this thread. Dawn, great info - it could not come at a better time. I have a couple of questions and some info to share. I've been sowing seed for spring broccoli, kale, Chinese cabbage, mustard spinach, lettuce, etc. and preparing beds for onion plants and potatoes. Most of the spring broccoli crop will be Piricicaba (thanks for the recommendation). I just harvested the last of the fall-planted broccoli - the plants were ratty looking and windburned (I forgot to replace the row cover) but most were still making small buds. I read that Piricicaba was developed to provide edible leaves. I was curious about this so did a taste test of Piricicaba leaves v. leaves of Superdome, Windsor, and Premium Crop. Piricicaba leaves were tasty and very tender. Leaves of the other broccoli varieties were very tough. Piricicaba has another benefit - lots of edible leaves - in addition to being heat tolerant. I used the last leaves and heads in a Thai stir-fry. Very good!. I picked up 10# bags of red, yellow, and russet organic potatoes at a Whole Foods. Most have small sprouts. I put the potatoes on trays next to a glass door so they get lots of light. Then I recalled someone saying that they had Irish potatoes in a closet. Someone else said sunlight will turn potatoes green. Should I put the potatoes in darkness or light to sprout? Is sun pouring through a glass door too much light? Has anyone grown Komatsuna (AKA Mustard spinach). Farmerdill gives it high marks so I decided to try it this year. Regular spinach doesn't grow well here so I've given up on it. I'd like to find more good greens for spring. I've been looking at Evergreen Seeds (link below) They say "Komatsu is a fast-growing vegetable and is ready for harvest 35 days after sowing in warm climates. Plants can be grown all year round in temperate and subtropical areas." Sounds too good to be true! Does anyone have experience growing Chinese cabbage (Bok choi, pak choi)? If yes, did you grow them in the spring or fall? Recommended varieties? Many thanks! Pam Here is a link that might be useful: Evergreen Seeds - vegetables...See Moredaniel_nyc
8 years agowormgirl_8a_WA
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoSeysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
8 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
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8 years agolast modified: 8 years agowormgirl_8a_WA
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
8 years agolindalana 5b Chicago
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