Japanese Maple in Container in Washington state
avillar321
9 years ago
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avillar321
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Ideal mix/formula for Japanese Maple? Help
Comments (10)Thank you both so much! Greenman28: Now you mention "Gritty mix or 5-1-1"...what are those? Are they a description for mixes you (or I) would have to mix ourselves by buying the ingredients separately? Or is that something pre-bagged i can buy? Gardengal48: THANK YOU! If it was me searching/buying the ingredients I would have no issue at all buying them and mixing my own mix, but because in my current circumstance i am relying on a family member to buy the mix for me, it is fantastic to hear about a bagged mix! So its http://www.kellogggarden.com/products?brand=gardnerbloome&category=gardnerbloome-soils#5 or http://greenhousegardencenter.com/Master Nursery Catalog.htm (scrolled half way down "Acid Planting Mix") ? I hope my local nursery (Sky Nursery) carries one of those cause that would make it so much easier! Now when you use that, what do you use for a mulch on-top of the soil? Also is this perfect to use when germinating seeds? Because remember i am not only needing to re-pot my trees into 1gal pots, but i am going to be growing JM from seed and so i'll need soil for that as well, so if i can use that for seeds as well that is fantastic. (I thought manure wasn't recommended for JPN MPL's? I read the specs for the Acid Planting Mix and it says it has: chicken manure, and bat guano) Just called Sky-Nursery, they said they used to use Gardener & Bloome but found it too rich so they now carry and use EB-Stone mixes and for my use they recommended: http://www.ebstone.org/13_azalea.php Any thoughts? (Here's whats in EB-Stone Azalea Mix: Contains: Composted Fir Bark, Sphagnum Peat Moss, Redwood Compost, Mushroom Compost, Volcanic Pumice Stone, Earthworm Castings, Bat Guano, Kelp Meal, Feather Meal and Gypsum) Here's what i got so far: 1) Potting mix: EB-Stone Azalea Mix 2) I'm thinking this mulch for 1" bottom of container: http://www.lowes.com/pd_109329-1802-CARY30P_0__?productId=3156693#BVRRWidgetID And this mulch for top 1" of container: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Terrace-Mulch-4-qt-Terrace-Mulch-Cypress-Mulch-Resealable-Bag-MULCH3359CYP/203920301#.UbvAw9jNkSo Feel free to give your opinion on if that's good or not good, if you know of a different type that's way better. (The idea being a shredded mulch for the bottom of the container to help with drainage and a bigger chip-style mulch for the top layer to provide heat/moisture insulation/retention and good aeration) This post was edited by M3rc_Nate on Fri, Jun 14, 13 at 21:49...See MoreHELP! Japanese maple yellowing leaves and dying
Comments (14)Based on the additional info, I'm going to guess you have a combination of fertilizer burn and sun burn. I think there's a couple of things going on here. Container culture is very different than planting in the ground, and even If planted in the ground I wouldn't plant a Japanese Maple in a mixture of 50% compost. My guess would be your tree was showing signs of fertilizer burn from the compost, and the high temps aggravated your already stressed tree. I believe I remember reading that when nutrients are too high in the soil, a plant isn't able to absorb water from the soil. With the high temps the tree needed even more water but couldn't get it due to the nutrient imbalance. At this point, if I'm right, I think your only option is to get the tree out of the compost mixture. Did you bare root the tree when you repotted or did you pot up ( ie take the tree out of the pot, loosen the out side roots and pot into the large container placing the compost mix around the existing mostly intact root ball? Reason for asking is, if you only potted up you can likely plant the tree in the ground for this year or pull the plant out of the compost mixture and pot up using a soil with similar soil characteristics as the soil in the root ball. Be careful and try not to disturb the roots any more than necessary. You're getting late in the year to be potting up but leaving the tree in the compost is likely to do more harm. Also keep the roots moist as best as possible during the procedure. If the roots dry out, they'll die and cause even worse problems. The tree should be moved to a shady area protected from wind, after or during the pot up/planting, until it begins to improve. Also a note on full sun, some cultivar of Japanese Maples are listed as capable of being planted in full sun. This is a misnomer because full sun in Japan, western Washington, or even in the north east is different than full sun in California, Texas or Georgia. Although some of the Sango Kaku's are among the more tolerant of sun exposure when planted in the ground, I've read many examples of these trees showing sun exposure stress symptoms when in hotter climates in containers. Hope this helps, and also hopefully one of the others will come along and correct me if I've given information that's too far off the mark. PS The above recommended procedure would only be a temporary fix. Next spring, just as the buds begin to swell, the tree would need a full repot into an appropriate container medium if you wanted to put it back in a pot or keep it in a pot which ever the case may be. Blake...See MoreGrow Japanese Maple tree in container?
Comments (2)I'm going to offer a different opinion :-) Japanese maples are in general immensely suitable to growing in containers - I grow ALL of mine in containers and there is considerable discussion on the Maple forum regarding container culture of these trees in all sorts of climate zones. Obviously, in colder zones, some sort of winter protection is desired but in zone 8, it is not necessary. (most J. maples are fully ground hardy to zone 5 - I know of none that have only a zone 8 or 9 hardiness rating). We had winter temperatures this past December that dropped into the single digits - unusual for a zone 8 - and all my containered maples were fine. If you have poor soil conditions, bad drainage or the presence of verticillium wilt pathogen, growing Japanese maples in a container may be the most reasonable course of action. The size of the container is dependent on the size of the plant, but I'd suggest at least a 24" box (or the container equivalent) for long term container culture of a JM. And pay very close attention to your potting medium. Japanese maples prefer a very well draining, chunky (aerated) potting mix that is on the acidic side. You will also need to pay close attention to watering and fertilizing, as you would with any plant grown long term in a container. And periodically, these will need to be unpotted, root pruned, the soil refreshed and repotted. It's not a plant and forget situation! 'Crimson Queen' in particular has an ability to develop some serious width - at a previous nursery we had a boxed mature CQ that was 9' across! Plant tag info on height and width are estimates and often, only estimates for a 10 year growth period. When in doubt, allow extra room so the tree will not interfer with any structure or walkway, as you don't want to prune constantly to keep size in check. Height on either of these should not be a concern - both are relatively low weepers. But they do grow into mature trees with a lot of sculptural interest, so placing them where they can be seen and admired in all seasons is preferable than squeezing them into a foundation planting situation. These are specimen trees and deserve pride of place....See MoreSome newbie questions about my first Japanese Maple tree
Comments (12)Great. I didn't know there was a generic Japanese Maple species. I'm in the process of acquiring a couple of more JM's. Is $400 a reasonable price for an about 12 foot tall bloodgood JM in a 32-gallon wood container? That's the biggest Bloodgood at my local nursery. It looks really nice. I wonder why it hasn't been sold as it's been there for a while. The person there told me that I could plant it right away as it's been under full sun for a while. They have unlimited warranty, which would really help in my case as I'm new to this. I also really want a Coral Bark, but the only shady area around my house is along the garage where there is a very big palm tree with a very long root system. So I don't think the soil there would be good enough for a Coral Bark? My only option would be to plan it in full sun. However, I don't think Coral Bark like full sun. Could someone confirm that a Coral Bark would be out of question in my situation?...See Moreavillar321
9 years agoavillar321
9 years agoavillar321
9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agoavillar321
9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agoavillar321
9 years agoavillar321
9 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoavillar321 thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)avillar321
9 years agoavillar321
9 years agoavillar321
9 years ago
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