Thanks for the update and the pictures! Itâs good to know that your trees healed well. I was curious how they did because Iâve got a ton of rabbit and vole damage to deal with. Iâve got about 200 apple and pear trees in a fenced-in 60â x 60â nursery. The trees are 1 to 4 years old, ranging in size from less than a foot to 7 feet tall, with each one wrapped with a 24â plastic vole guard. Even though the nursery is surrounded by an 8-foot polypropylene mesh deer fence fortified with a 28-inch welded wire rabbit fence, it was no match for the 2 to 5 feet of snow thatâs been on the ground for most of the winter. With the snow higher than the rabbit fence, they easily chewed through the polypropylene mesh, and, in a single night, nipped almost everything down to snow-level (about 30â). The bigger trees are missing big patches of bark, maybe 2/3 to 3/4 of the way around the trunk. Oh - and under the snow, on the smaller trees, voles skeletonized everything above - and sticking out of - the plastic guards like piranhas. I saved what I could by wrapping what was still standing above the guards in aluminum foil, made some patches in the fence with poultry netting, and dug a trench in the snow all the way around the nursery. In the process of mending the fence (which took a few days), rabbits got in only once. They ignored all the aluminum-covered trees, and gnawed on raspberry canes instead. Once mended, the rabbits havenât got back in. As for the vole guards, they can only save the wood that theyâre guarding. I wonât know the full extent of the damage until the snow melts. It stands at a little under 2 feet deep right now. Itâs just devastating to see such damage. Heartbreak aside, my concerns/questions are: Will there be new growth (from the scion/variety Iâm trying to grow) if there are no visible buds? Is there anything I should do to keep disease (scab, canker, fireblight) from entering the wounds? Good luck!

No, they're easier than almost anything to grow if you buy good nursery stock that hasn't been damaged and keep it from getting damaged. If I can do it, anybody can, didn't know the first thing about it, but mixed in some fertilizer and planted them carefully (for me), and watered faithfully the first year, then never had to water again. I am getting up in years and was advised not to plant any more, if they don't succumb to something, likely to outlive me, sobering, don't know why the heck not, even if I don't use all the cherries or can/freeze them, people stop and ask for some and I don't care if the birds get them all. Those trees gave us many happy memories for me and my kids. Had a neighbor who used to come and love to pick them for half and pit them for me, grew up on a farm, gave him something to look forward to. So few want to clutter up their fancy yards with things like that now. I don't know why; they aren't messy and are pretty when they blossom and fruit. Just my 2 cents. NS is extremely hardy, was specially developed in Minnesota. For newly planted trees, that deep freeze killed a lot of things, saved most of my plants through that, very unusual that year B4 last. Mulberries don't compare to cherries imo. Never had a mulberry pie. I do happen to like them a lot, just pick off the tree and gobble as many down as I can reach, they grow wild here, but cherries are much more versatile to bake with, probably can better, too, I wasn't good at making jelly or jam. I'd grow black raspberries which I'm crazy for (JB's like them, too), but it isn't practical in my smallish yard, could squeeze some in somewhere if I wanted to fight with the canes. They grow wild here, too, if you can find some that got enough sun and water. The red are good, too, most people prefer them. But environmental conditions have changed drastically in the 30 plus years since I started my first ones, temps are not quite as extreme as they were then here generally plus new insects and blights, etc., have moved in. The Japanese Beetles got loose on the mulberries in the park, and it was awful, horrible, chains of the icky things I was told. At least I was able to keep them off those trees I replaced and they only ate the youngest leaves, that damage wouldn't have killed them unless they completely defoliated them which could happen. I think I just had a bit of bad luck, bought them impulsively at a big box store, they were cheap, and I was so determined once I made up my mind to haul and plant them (not so easy for me now), I didn't check them over very well, not much to choose from that night in the dark. I didn't want to spend the money it now costs at the good nurseries. Now it has ended up costing me a lot more but I feel good about it for now. I decided it's best but may not always be true, to buy your better plants from a good nursery in your area. It doesn't always pay to buy cheap or mail order (which I do a lot of now). I've had good luck with little stuff at big box stores, but I think a lot of inferior stock may get palmed off on them and then sold to unwary customers especially impulsive ones like me, but you can get lucky, too; it's a crap shoot. Lowe's had some NS that looked pretty good after I bought those Montmorency and planted them, what do I know? They were too heavy for me to deal with, too large, too big a hole to dig, make that two holes, I always like two for cross pollination but they say it really isn't necessary. All you need to do is have a reasonably sunny spot, 6 hours or so, average soil (mine's clay after the first 10 or so inches), plant them right, and water well the first year. The worst that happened to one of mine was my son years ago got goofy with his land cruiser in the yard and clipped the one really bad, injured it, surprised it lasted as long as it did, I was so mad at him. Plus not being careful with the lawn mower, a nick in them opens them up to the above canker or other malady. I think it was gall or a virus that got the one finally, looked out the window late one summer, and it had turned completely brown; the other I was never sure what happened with it. But 30+ years is pretty darn good for dwarf trees like that. Standards aren't worth the hassle imo. By all means if you want cherries and have room for them, I certainly encourage you to try them. Try to find a good fit for what will work best for you in your zone, not neccessarily what is the most talked about here. Sorry I rambled on so about it, must be a nuisance to plow through my posts for some.

that wound looks like it has been there for years ... and i think the white specks are normal bark ... hard to go much further w/o a pic of the tree as a whole ... and the peeps in the fruit forum .. who i have never seen here.. might be better able to help ... ken

My first fruit tree was an apricot, which is still alive and bearing today. I adopted it when my parents bought the house and property it was on in 1963. So apricots can be very long lived as far as stone fruit goes- at least in warm, dry climates. The photograph suggests some cambium issues- diseases or other damage of the bark, but that is hard to evaluate from the photo- obviously there is still plenty of functioning cambium because of the vigor of the tree. Probably nothing you can do anything about anyway. I understand the issue of the trees architecture- the codominance of the two remaining scaffolds do threaten to split the tree apart. I would simply cut back the more horizontal left scaffold somewhat severely- particularly any shoots that shade the right side scaffold. Favor the more upright one and don't let the crop load get too heavy on the left side- crutch it if necessary to protect it during cropping. Keep doing whatever else that is creating that vigorous growth and I bet you get another 20 years out of that wonderful tree.