The basic rule of thumb is rabbits and deer won't eat poisonous plants. They also tend to avoid very dry, very fuzzy, very scratchy and highly scented plants. Dry and fuzzy things get gummy in their mouths and require water to wash them down. They're eating the plants as much for the water as they are for nutrition. They avoid highly scented plants because it "jams their radar". They all rely upon their senses of smell to detect danger. Highly scented plants, not the flowers but the actual foliage, over power their ability to smell and they can't tell if there are coyotes or other predators in the area so they tend to avoid being so close to them to retain their ability to smell danger. Of course, a highly stressed animal is going to be willing to take more risks and eat things they normally wouldn't. And, they can't read, so are often not familiar with what is often on the "do not eat" lists. Sunset Western Garden book for a long time stated deer won't eat agapanthus, but they will gnaw off all the opening flower clusters, leaving them looking as if Ophelia Addams lives at your house. They tend also to avoid areas with the strong scent of blood as that 'tells' them a kill has occurred and Nature avoids death. Urine from predators can repel them because that indicates their predator has been marking its territory, and they know invading that territory can often result in them being dinner. The commercial and home repellants often work because of the "radar jamming" effects. They tend also to avoid areas where they feel too exposed, particularly where they don't have a fast, easy escape route or where they can easily become trapped. Given their choice, they will usually eat things easily accessed via their entrance and more hidden from view. Increasing stress results in them foraging deeper and deeper into normally considered unsafe areas and their taking greater risks to find food. Using the raised boards or sticks as Strawberryhill suggested is like a cattle guard. Cows see the parallel lines on the ground and instinctively know they can get their hooves caught in them, so they avoid them. Deer need something they fear will trip them or injure them. They can jump a seven foot fence because they can jump high for short distances. They can't and usually won't try jumping two shorter fences placed four or five feet apart from one another. While they can go up high for a short distance, they can't jump long distances without a good running start. The trick is finding which combination works well in your situation and for long periods. They can quickly learn your repellant efforts have no teeth behind them, like the plastic owls on poles with rabbits. If the owls don't actually fly at them, chasing them, the rabbits will quickly learn they can continue grazing right under them with no consequences. So far, the best repellant I've found for all of them are the motion sensor sprinklers. You have to get them set just right to protect the area against the varmint you have to repel, and you have to constantly remember YOU are a "varmint" when seen by the motion detector. It's the surprise of the noise and being hit with a strong, fast stream of cold water when violating the area that keeps that system working against the rabbits and deer. Motion activated lighting works for a short time, but has no "teeth" behind them, so they quickly become accustomed to them and ignore the light. They never ignore a noisy rain bird full of strong, cold water. Get hit with it once and neither will you! The real trick for safety with the motion sensor sprinkler is not to turn the hose on strongly. Too strong and it may cause the hose to burst, resulting in wasting a lot of water and causing flooding should you not find the problem for hours after it occurs. Turning the hose on to a trickle usually allows the pressure to build when needed for that strong, thirty second noisy blast of water. If the hose bursts before the pressure is needed, you shouldn't waste much water at a trickle. Normally, all it takes is one blast an evening to keep the deer out unless you have herds of them to contend with. Kim

Thanks for replies, guys. Buford, I did see teensy tiny buds on the new ones I got. Only one of my new ones has any left. Also, spring came right about normal here, much to my joy... no more winter! Jacqueline, usually I've got teeny weeny buds by this time of year. My roses always put out the buds at the same time as the new growth. April is rose month here, so consider they have to have time to develop and mature before April. I've had roses for over 20 years now, and wouldn't be asking this question if this was out of the ordinary! I've definitely got patience, trust me. Three acres of garden takes quite a lot of it lol. Seil, would every rose put out nothing but blind shoots? There has been a lot of cloud cover and rain lately. I will give a couple more weeks to see if they do anything else on their own then go ahead and do the short clip. Brittie, that makes me feel better as you are very near me in La Porte. Thanks again guys.

These are great ideas however I'm really looking for a way that would be appealing to the eye as she is located near our lounge area. Looks like I will just have to wait it out and see what happens when she blooms again. If necessary I will move her to a different spot. My veggie garden in starting to take off a bit so maybe the bunny will chew on some lettuce instead lol... Also, a little off topic but while doing a little research I read that planting marigold plant near a rose will protect aphids and other pests from attacking the roses because the will naturally head for the marigold over a rose... will have to try that out.

Bart: google StrawChicago and HMF, then click on Member Profile to see my profile in HMF where I list the topics and the links in Organic Rose forum. I can't give you the link here since HMF-set-up prevents me from giving my own profile link. My HMF profile condenses the info., such as: Over-fertilization: wilting, leaves curl down. Too acidic: leaves curl up & thinner, and blackspots, crisp burn on tips. Too alkaline: Pale, leaves twisted (boron def) or crinkled (copper def). Potassium def: zero blooms, balling, thin & weak stems, and blackspots. Calcium def: less petals, stunt growth & tip die-back & pale and small upper leaves Nitrogen def: small leaves & pale LOWEST leaves Sulfur def: entire plant is pale & stunt growth Iron def: pale UPPER leaves with greener veins Ann: I checked out your link to Organic Rose gardening in Facebook. Yours is a great link for folks with questions about diseases & pests. I have known Khalid in Pakistan since 2012 when we first posted in English rose forum. That group closed, so he posted in Houzz Organic Rose forum with me, then he started his own group in Facebook in 2014 and his group Fragrant Gardens now have 2.0K members. His name in Facebook is HQ-Gilani. Lots of hot climate posters there, and roses that thrive above 100 F are also cold-hardy in my zone 5a. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1412992132360557 As to pruning off blind-shoots, I went out to check on my Sweet M., and the shortest branch which bears a bud is 6 inch. So it's OK to prune off 6 inch blind-shoots, since that will be replaced by bud-shoot once the stem gets enough phosphorus & trace elements like zinc & copper & boron (most lacking in too alkaline condition).