Help!... My rose refuses to grow buds and bloom...
Ann-SoCalZ10b SunStZ22
2 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (16)
Vaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
2 years agoRelated Discussions
HELP- My roses refuse to live!!!
Comments (13)Just a guess, lol, because it's still hard to know, but I think you might have some canker-dead or otherwise dead canes and I think they also got too dry recently. It looks like they definitely need some pruning of the dead stuff, and I'd check carefully for cankers at the junctions of canes or at the bases. Or you might find holes down through the canes (I have bad borers, so that might just be me). I don't think the major defoliation looks to be definitely related to the problem with the canes, though. It seems pretty sudden. Unless you have something weird going on with the roots (voles?), I think they probably just got too hot and dry recently. Once will do it ;) I'd start by pruning (and checking the canes closely), and also make sure that the soil stays a little moist all the time. And look for critter holes nearby! I have voles, but I plant in wire cages now so that they can't eat the roots. That will cause very quick defoliation, but the rose will also usually pull out easily (and depressingly)....See MoreCut off all buds & blooms on young rose?
Comments (13)Yes ma'am, Annabeth. The yellow genes in Teas and the associated Tea-Noisettes produces some wonderful plants, but they can be SLOW right out of the gate and they HATE hard pruning. They, in particular, require all that stored food in the thick, old wood to explode into the growth you expect from them. It takes them what seems like an overly long time to create the roots and produce the wood they require. Add cooler temps, reduced sun, perhaps drainage issues and any disease or insect inhibitors and you have some real performance issues. Personally, while I love the idea of own root plants, for those types budding IS preferable because of the increased, artificial vigor the root stock adds to the mix. Even budded, they improve and benefit from the TPN treatment. Keeping them canned while you do it speeds things along greatly due to the increased cellular activity of warm roots and warmed sap, as well as the increased bacterial activity in warmer soil. From what I've read, most soil bacteria are fairly dormant in soil temps less than 70 degrees F, so the higher heat (as long as it isn't to the cooking levels) of canned roots helps push them even faster than when in the ground. That's also why standards on suitable stocks (read IXL where the sap flow is tremendous, as opposed to Huey, which is today's standard, and whose flow rate significantly slows as the trunks get longer), tend to grow a lot faster and flower earlier and often longer, than traditional bushes. Putting something weaker on an IXL trunk can push the dickens out of it! Susan, what would I do to push something like I did now? Whatever the size pot the plant is in now, presuming the roots are nearing or have reached the point of benefiting from being up sized, I'd go to the next size pot. I don't like jumping sizes because the roots seldom knit the whole together sufficiently to prevent the root ball from disintegrating when either up sized or planted. Going from a one to a two, then to a three or five, followed by a seven then perhaps a fifteen gallon, gives the roots enough time and warmth to infiltrate the soil ball and create a tight whole with good structural integrity. I hate when I tip the ball out of the pot and the danged thing bare roots on me. I would (and am) use whatever potting soil I find beneficial for my climate and gardening style. Here, because of the high evaporation rate, I use Moisture Control Miracle Grow. I like the timed release fertilizer in it, though be aware that time released anything, releases faster in higher heat. That's why they print "up to three months" on the labels. Make the soil hotter and it leaches out and breaks down faster. Pot the plant in the next size larger can in the soil you prefer. I like to mix organic and inorganic fertilizers. Organics feed the soil, inorganics feed the plant quicker and the additional nitrogen feeds the active soil bacteria so it doesn't rob nitrogen from the plant when it needs it most. Mixing them gets the soil cooking, allowing both the plant to make use of all the nutrients as well as the soil bacteria to do its thing and digest the organics, turning them into the salts which are absorbed by the plant roots. Nitrogen leaches from the soil in water. Potassium and phosphorus tend to stay put where they are, requiring roots to find them for absorption. With any heat, you should start noticing growth pretty much all over the plant in fairly short order. Keeping the flower buds pinched off stimulates an even higher level of growth activity. After several weeks, if the plant is continuing to push the growth, you might consider using a diluted foliar feeding of liquid fertilizer. It can be fish emulsion, Miracle Grow or whatever you prefer. If the instructions state to use a tablespoon per gallon every two weeks, consider using half that strength at twice the frequency. Say half tablespoon in a gallon, weekly. Plants will absorb nutrients through their leaves and canes as well as through the roots. I found in the Valley heat, hosing the plants off to rinse off dust and pollution, watering them well and allowing them to drain and air dry, then following that with a foliar feed pushed them like crazy. In that climate, at that time of the year, diseases weren't an issue. A film of water on the leaf surface won't cause disease. It can actually help prevent them. The spores germinate on dry leaf surfaces, in the presence of humidity when the temperatures are conducive for them to germinate. Rinsing off your foliage can actually help hydrate the plant and remove residues from smog, dirt and other sprays. Some of the most glorious foliage I ever grew were in the old Newhall garden where evaporation was extreme. There was constant wind, constant sun, high temperatures and without the extra water, leaves tended to be smaller and more stressed looking. Running an overhead, oscillating sprinkler on them for a good soak resulted in enormous, clean, healthy foliage on husky, amazing plants. Yes, I know, not everyone has those conditions and these days, none of us can justify nor afford that kind of water. Adjust it to what is appropriate for your conditions and water situation. The hotter, dustier and drier your garden, the more the plants will benefit from overhead watering. Just do it early enough to allow the added humidity to dry before night and you should see benefits from it. I'd had spider mite problems for the longest time when still in the Granada Hills garden and I read and followed all the Organic Gardening suggestions to the letter. Marigolds not only did NOT repel them, all the marigold plants were tented with their webs. Breaking all the rules, eliminating the plants they seemed to prefer and drenching the plants tops and bottoms with a water wand cleared the miserable things up in short order. The roses seemed to love it, too. You have your plant up sized, in the soil of your choice and are feeding it with your food (s) choice. Place it where you feel it receives the best air flow, light, heat, wind protection and can benefit from your focused attention to make sure it has the water it needs. Permitting it to dry out will bring all activity to a halt and can result in parts of the plant dying back, which you know from your normal gardening. If you're trying to create a spectacular plant in a shortened time, it will require more of your attention. A few minutes a day pouring over it to check its progress and attending to any new needs shouldn't add enormously to your gardening time. It will teach you a great deal while you're at it, too. Watching what the plant does in response to what you do is quite educational and a lot of fun! You may stop this treatment when you determine it is appropriate for what you want/need the plant to be as well as when you feel is appropriate for your climate. I can almost do it year round here in Encino as we will never have snow and very, very seldom have any weather cold enough to do any real damage. More severe climates will require tweaking timing and amounts to adjust for the beginning and end of their growing season. It serves no good to keep providing all the resources necessary to push all this lovely growth when a killing frost or several feet of snow are expected while it's still soft. That is pretty much what I did at Limberlost and The Outdoor Room to produce those specimen quickly. You may do any part of it, or all of it to suit your time, energy, interest, checkbook, etc. It does work and it's a very fun, interesting experiment which will teach you more than you ever expected it to. You'll be taking one (or more) of your plants and basically putting them under a microscope. You'll see concentrated results from your actions as the plants respond faster to all you do to and for them. All you're really doing is what specialty growers do to produce the photogenic examples to entice people to buy their wares. If you expect to hold an open garden, or have guests planned for a party or wedding in the garden later in the season, you can really push the maturity of points of interest this way. Without a greenhouse, it's the best way to produce these kinds of results. And, it CAN be a whole lot of fun! (I know, I need to get a life! LOL!) Kim...See MoreMy Rose bush won't grow buds
Comments (22)tammypie--I bought my forsythia at my local nursery/garden center. I assume the same should be true for your area. Certainly, any online nursery that sells a variety of shrubs, perennials, etc., should carry forsythia. You might check and see if it needs some winter cold in order to bloom. I don't know about that--since I get winter cold whether I want it or not. Otherwise, they are the easiest things in the world to grow, but give them space and in a somewhat out-of-the-way place. They can get big; unfortunately, they don't do much after they finish their early, early spring bloom--but when all the world is clothed in winter drab, they are a welcome spot of yellow sunshine promising us spring will follow. Full-sun bush, by the way. Kate...See Morewhat's blooming, budding, growing, sprouting.. in June?
Comments (150)I envy your lilies being open. Mine are still at half size - I'm expecting them to be beautiful come August... but there's a wait still. I almost had my jasmine MOO in bloom. I was excited to see the bud - it was getting bigger each day. And yesterday morning - it was on the cusp of opening. I arrived home last night and it was gone. Is this to be expected for putting it outside? did the wind knock it off? or did a neighbor pluck it? So, the one budd is gone - and the plant is all leaves again. I was expecting more flowers with it being outside - and after 3 weeks out there - that it's only filling out with greenery and one measly bud? Where's the rest of them? I'm more than a little disappointed....See MoreAnn-SoCalZ10b SunStZ22
2 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
2 years agostrawchicago z5
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoDingo2001 - Z5 Chicagoland
2 years agoAnn-SoCalZ10b SunStZ22
2 years agostrawchicago z5
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoAnn-SoCalZ10b SunStZ22
2 years agoAnn-SoCalZ10b SunStZ22
2 years agobart bart
2 years agostrawchicago z5
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoAnn-SoCalZ10b SunStZ22
2 years agorosecanadian
2 years ago
Related Stories
GARDENING GUIDESWhat Kind of Roses Should You Grow?
Want to add the beauty of roses to your garden? Find out which ones, from old-fashioned to modern, are right for you
Full StorySPRING GARDENINGHow to Grow a Rose Garden in Pots
Everything can come up roses, even without a plot of soil in sight. This step-by-step guide to growing roses in containers shows you how
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHow to Grow a Flower Garden for Bouquets
Enjoy fresh blooms indoors, bring beauty and fragrance to your garden beds, and help support pollinators
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Sally Holmes Rose
This simple yet versatile climbing rose grows vigorously all year; plant now for abundant spring and summer blooms
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESLearn the Secret to Bigger and Better Roses
Grow beautiful roses using both ordinary and unusual soil amendments
Full StoryFLOWERS AND PLANTSHelp Monarchs and Other Butterflies by Planting Common Milkweed
Summer-blooming Asclepias syriaca is an important larval host plant for the monarch butterfly and attracts a number of pollinating insects
Full StoryWINTER GARDENINGPruning Secrets for Exquisite Roses
Encourage gorgeous blooms year after year with this time-tested advice on how to prune your rosebush in winter for health and shape
Full StoryFLOWERSSneak a Peek at Some of Next Year’s Irresistible New Roses
Here are top 2018 picks for beautiful blooms, lovely fragrances and exceptional disease resistance
Full StoryCONTAINER GARDENS8 Easy Container Plants to Grow From Seed
Get beautiful blooms and herbs in summer by starting these choice garden picks from seed in spring
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESYou Can Grow Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s Wedding Flowers
The blooms and branches selected to decorate St. George’s Chapel at the royal event are English garden favorites
Full Story
strawchicago z5