Most "nutritious" additions to compost pile?
ffreidl
9 years ago
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kimmq
9 years agopurslanegarden
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Do I Need Fertilizer with high nutritious, composted soil?
Comments (56)“Salty” Manure It’s quite easy to find NPK values for manures and manure compost. Bagged composts containing manure that I have seen are typically in the NPK range of other bagged composts ��" 1-1-1 for example. It is not so easy to find ‘salt’ content of manures. Everyone likes to SAY that “manure is salty,” but there are vastly more NPK reports for manures on the web than there is data on salt content. If anyone has actual data, please post a link. Fact sheets and articles saying manure is salty are not particularly useful. It does make sense that when urine is included in the manure, it would have higher salt content. Particularly in a feedlot, where (reportedly) higher salt levels are fed in order to make the animals retain water so they sell for more. If you’re getting manure from someone who has a couple of horses, it’s probably going to be different from manure from a beef feedlot. This does not make all manure unusable. My FIL put manure on his garden (NE silty sandy loam) annually for decades and had wonderful gardens year after year. I have clay (which retains salts longer), mostly use my own compost, and wouldn’t use pure manure year after year. I do occasionally buy bagged products that have or probably have manure in them. No problems here. “Alkaline Soils” A claim was made that Western soils retain more salt because they are alkaline. It was always my impression that Western soils retain salts better because it’s more arid in the West so they are not washed out. Regardless, it might be a good idea for Westerners to watch the amount of manure they add, and know what’s in it. Unfortunately in arid zones there is often a lack of green waste for composting, but there are lots of cattle so manure becomes an important source of OM for gardeners. “Heavy Metals” I was able to find a paper on extraction of HM from manures and it appeared that Cd, Hg, Pb were somewhat higher than they might be in native soils depending upon where you are. Based on the numbers I saw, it would take a looong time for them to become significant. However metals do accumulate (they don’t biodegrade) and the heavy ones likely don’t leach away (the more clayey the soil, the more they will stick). Basically any time you’re importing organic matter (or synthetic fertilizer, for that matter), any bioaccumulative constituents present are being added to your current load. Unless you can subsist entirely on your own compost made from your own waste, this is an inevitable consequence. How long would it take for Pb to build up to an unsafe level in topsoil if you’re adding so many lb of imported compost per sq ft per year? The math is not actually that complicated. What’s the HM content of non-manure based composts (i.e. the alternatives)? What’s the background level of HM in the soil to begin with? These are all things to consider, and there is no single answer due to the endless variations. Rejecting the use of manure based compost entirely, on the basis of HM content, is a very simplistic approach....See MoreCompost pile never made compost
Comments (18)lilacs of may - I agree w/the "need more greens" opinions above (which is not to say that I disagree w/the "need more water" opinions - I just don't have an opinion about the water thing b/c my bin is in a container & I tend to have too much moisture more often than not). The way you described it - 1 thin green, 1 thick brown of mostly leaves - seems like it would take a real long time to decompose. I've noticed leaves in my bin take a long time, which I didn't expect. But, my bin takes a short time to decompose when I've used mostly garden/kitchen waste, intense greens (such as UCG/dried blood/alfalfa), and some browns such as (leaves/paper towels/napkins/shredded moistened cardboard) - IF I turn it ALOT (again it's in a bin so this might not be as crucial to your formula). Plus, I also find that we each have a preferred "formula" for our individual systems, lifestyles & area of the country. I've added below a link to my list of 201 Compost Ingredients, if you want to brainstorm about more "greens." BTW, we just got our first Starbucks (10 min away) - prior to that the nearest starbucks was 1 hour away & that was just in a bookstore. I am already collecting from a local coffee shop (actually, they were new about 2 yrs ago - pre-local-Starbucks - and I told them about Starbucks' habit of bagging & offering UCG for peoples' gardens & so now they're doing it! yippee!). And, actually, most of the UCG I gather go directly onto soil (under the store-bought pine/other bark/shredded mulch) or onto the grass. So, do it again this year & keep experimenting to see what works! polly in IL - that is BEAUTIFUL! Thanks for the pix! All the Best, Tree Here is a link that might be useful: 201 Compost ingredients...See Moreseeking advice on my compost pile
Comments (20)All, Good to hear all this. I am only bumping this topic with updates as I find the information useful and hopefully so will others. To be clear on a few points, I originally did use my chipper to reduce freshly fallen leaves but no more. I keep them loose long enough to dry thoroughly and then they easily crush to smaller size by hand, only about 30 minutes work. At this point I started my new pile for next year, mixed in some greens and a couple shovels of old compost to "prime the pump". This is the pile that is already very active with internal temperatures near 125 F. I will continue to monitor the old and the new piles as I am in Zone 4 and our coldest months are January/February. In addition, we are semi-arid around here and I will need to occasionally add moisture. My old pile is indeed fogging but only slightly and it is visible only on the coldest of mornings. I will stick my thermometer in the pile to make certain what the temperature actually is before tilling into the soil. Best of holidays to you all....See MoreWhat is the most nutritiuos plant to feed to your Compost
Comments (38)sandy16 - IMO, it doesn't matter whether the cover crop is tilled into the soil or cut down and thrown on the compost pile and then tilled into the soil after composting. The total amount of N added to the soil is going to be about the same. The way I understand it, the longer a legume is allowed to mature, the more N is accumulated by the plant. But as it matures, the N is concentrated more and more in the seed as opposed to the roots. If you harvest the seed to eat it, you've reduced the total N that can be returned to the soil (there will still be some in the root nodules though). In any case, growing legumes causes a net increase in soil N. Compare this to growing corn, which fixes no N and if you don't add loads of N to the soil in the form of fertilizer, it will deplete your soil of N....See Moretoxcrusadr
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