The sunken area at the base appears to be to be canker. Had to remove a Ukigumo JM earlier in the season for this very reason. I have seen allot of this over the last few years. Have seen allot of it on crabapples, Japanese Maples, and other maples. Plants sometimes beat the pathogen, sometimes not. If they are going to beat it, then expect to see callus to form around the edges of the sunken area. Even if the callus forms, it is far from certain. Once the tree goes dormant for the winter, the canker will often gain the upper hand again. However if the callus does not form by end of summer, then from what I have seen, it's almost certainly a matter of time before the tree is killed. As for how your plant became infected, I suspect that a number of low cost and/or large scale producers have gotten very careless over the last 5-10 years. There has been allot of apparent disease increase in allot of other plant groups as well over the same period (Aster Yellows seems to be everywhere anymore, to the point it's getting rather difficult to get disease free coneflowers, saw this Saturday at the largest local nursery). I'm sure part of it is due to producers having a difficult time the last several years, therefore cutting corners, poor training, poor enforcement, less responsible labor, etc. But also Big Box Store has little incentive, as they know Q Public is unlikely to know anything about disease and will be back again next year to buy another one. Arktrees

Usually, when I see a containerized tree with foliage only at the ends of the branches, it's because the roots are extremely tight. I would remove the burlap & either get it into the ground or into a bigger container until you can get at the roots - spring, as the buds start to move if 11762 is your zip code. BTW, it's helpful if you include your state & USDA zone, even a large city you might be near, in your user info. If you pot-up, and roots ARE extremely tight, make several vertical deep cuts around the root mass perimeter and an 'X' cut on the bottom before settling it in it's temporary new home. Al

First, mole are not the problem - they are carnivores and don't eat plants. There is a possibility of some other sort creature that might have fed on the roots (voles?) but can't confirm with the photos provided. Regardless, the tree now has a very compromised root system and will need some serious TLC if to survive. You have two types of JM showing based on both red and green branches. Green is most likely the root stock (straight Acer palmatum) and the red is the grafted top portion, which I assume to be a red laceleaf by the shape/habit of the tree from the first photo. So no need to graft any of the green further down - that's already what it is and will very likely sprout some latent shoots all on its own. All I would suggest for the time being is keep it out of direct sunlight, water as needed and just keep a close eye on it. No more fertilizing!! One should never fertilize a stressed tree and it is doubtful the Happy Frog is of much value in a container situation anyway (dry organic ferts are not very effective in a container - only with inground plantings). You can use any water soluble or liquid fertilizer you prefer but wait until at least midseason when the tree has stabilized a bit from the transplant shock and root disruption.

how about a pic ... dont be surprised if it drops all the leaves.. if it doesnt.. you are winning ... no sun until it grows some new roots ... did you properly prune any broken roots ... the key here.. is you are trying.. win or lose.. you will learn something ... so relish the challenge.. but dont set your hopes too high ... below is a general planting guide for trees .. if its small enough.. a pot might be best until fall ... ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub