Quick Answer From Expert? Temporary Occupancy? Have to??
iamskc
9 years ago
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9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (27)Here is the rest of the story. The customer told me that her two Marine sons were serving second tours of duty, which had been extended, in Iraq. To keep her mind occupied she decided to plant a shade garden and had read about fairy gardens. I suggested that her wee friends, in this climate, are probably happy and secure hiding high in the Live oaks nestled down in Resurrection fern which covers the branches. Then, of course, there are the long strands of Spainish moss upon which to swing in the breezes. We then set about selecting Azaleas and various ferns for her shade garden. She was interested in variegated shrubs for contrast. The nursery did not have a good selection of those on hand. So, I jotted down some suggestions for her. Many of the plants one associates with fairies will not grow here. I suggested that she begin an Amarylis collection (perennial here), gingers, Ligularias and blood lilies (Scadoxus multiflorus). All do well in shade and compliment shrubs. She really had not Searched the subject of fairy gardens and I encouraged her to do so. There are times when you give a person just enough information to make their own journey of discovery. This was such a situation....See Moreneed help from bermuda experts
Comments (5)1. Be absolutely sure the soil surface drains properly, is settled (not fluffy), and is P-E-R-F-E-C-T-L-Y level (no little holes or hills). Think "putting green." Bermuda should be mowed at your mower's lowest setting so small surface imperfections result in scalping the grass. Keep the soil moist. Water it every day at least once. This will do two things. First of all it will help sprout weed seeds that you would not have seen under the bermuda sod. Secondly it will help the beneficial microbes living in the soil get established. I know you're wondering about fertilizer. Since you don't have roots to take up the fertilizer, that would be a waste of money and time. Don't fertilize until you have mowed the grass for the second time. After the sod is down, be sure your contractor rolls it down to get good sod-to-soil contact. Roots cannot grow through the air to reach the soil. If they don't roll it down, make a mental note not to use that contractor for anything in the future. Then go out and rent a roller from your local equipment rental or your nursery. Rollers can be filled with water to adjust the weight. All you need to do is push the sod down. 2. I'm an organic guy and have been for years, so I can't help you with this. If you wanted to use corn gluten meal as a preemergent, it goes down when the forsythia are in full bloom in YOUR neighborhood. 3. Check into Lesco brand fertilizers. If you are out in the country you might have to check with a tractor supply store. Feed stores seem to carry other odd brands but not Lesco. Don't even thing of using a fertilizer already mixed with weed control. These are called weed-n-feed. They have an inherent problem with timing. Weeds die best after they have been fertilized. Unfortunately when you apply the two products together, by the time the weeds are growing well enough to take up the herbicide, the herbicide is worn out or washed away. It is FAR better to fertilize with a real fertilizer, then two weeks later spot spray individual weeds with something like Weed-B-Gone. That way you are not spreading unneeded herbicide over the entire lawn. 4. The only place you will get good gardening advice locally is from a nursery that has been around for 10 years. These are usually family owned. It is the owners who have the experience, but remember, they are trying to sell you stuff that you may or may not need. Scotts is DEFINITELY selling stuff you don't need (weed-n-feed is a prime example). Your feed store is the next best bet for information. Or you can search this forum and other Internet forums for "bermuda" and "alabama" for more info....See MoreAnybody out there that can give me a quick answer?
Comments (16)lindac - I said I hoped the piece was at least 1950's or under. No, I would not be able to tell a difference in 10 years. lol OK, heard back and received some more photos. I can't tell how old, but I suspect that sweeby could be correct, but as someone2010 said, I think $80 is still a good deal if the piece is sturdy. Looking at the close-ups by email, there are several little "flaws" in the piece. The hardware also looks newer. However, a little touch up here and there and the piece could be fine for my needs. I changed my mind about where to put it. I was thinking a hallway, but I would really like something longer behind my family room couch so that I can add more photographs. This piece would really fit in with my existing furnishings in that room. I currently have an 80 some-odd year gate-leg farm table as a sofa table. The other pieces (except for the TV cabinet) were my parents, and they are more French Provincial looking in the legs, as is this CL piece. Here's some photos of my family room and the furniture. I wonder if they have the key!...See MoreNeed help with Occupancy ASAP!
Comments (21)I am not an attorney, but have argued number of cases in the courts. The rules of the contract are simple - offer, accept-ion, consideration. Same rules apply to amending the contract. Make sure that your contract was not amended. Check contract for provisions about amending the contract, if an amendment have to be in writing... agreed upon both parties. Make sure that at NO POINT you agreed to amend or pay the amount of $268k. I do not like you implying that the issue is with the lack of money in the loan draw, or bank not willing to pay additional money. No the one and only issue you should be raising - that you paid as agreed upon in the contract. If indeed your contract was for $255k +change order and you paid $255k + your change order = your side of the contract should be satisfied. "he does have a clause that states we must have a C/O and signed certificate of completion and all bills paid prior to occupancy." The builder was paid as agreed in the contract. I assume your builder will claim [mendaciously] that you agreed to amend the contract to pay/compensate him for the overages. If you did not agree to amend the contract[agreed to pay] I would send your builder a Notice of Breach of Contract additionally stating withholding certificate of occupancy or refusing to sign certificate of completion to obtain the amount not agreed upon in the contract is in Bad Faith. Esp knowing that you and your family has no place to live - reasonable fact finder may view this as extortion. (You want him to hit a tort of Bad Faith). (Additionally you may state the items that were not completed according to the contract - however that could cause the delay as he could intentionally refused to complete them). I do not know if you should breach a contract and occupy the property. It sounds that there are some issues with the basement, etc and this also could terminate your warranty. However I would apply for C/O immediately. It is your right and it does not affect the contract. I would mail Notice of Breach of Contract - as it alone could terminate your obligations under the contract.==== Do NOT breach a contract just yet, seek attorney feedback. Do not listen to individuals saying builder has no recourse. In the court biggest liar wins, shysters never punished. Brian S Dump LibertyMutual - dirty liars and cheats protected by presumably corrupt judges....See Moreiamskc
9 years agoUser
9 years agoCharles Ross Homes
9 years agomanhattan42
9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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