They've been croaking here more this week, but I was hearing a few in Feb. and I saw the first eggs a few weeks ago. They went through a freeze, so I don't know if that affected them or not...time will tell. I don't think there will be as many as the last couple of years since we kept the water from collecting on top of the pool this winter. We heard some on and off throughout the winter. I noticed the Indian Plums were starting to bloom in the woods.

Yes, it's true, "poison dart frogs" in captivity are not toxic. While scientists haven't yet pinpointed the exact chemical pathway by which it occurs, Dendrobatids (poison dart frogs) produce a toxin by converting alkyloids present in insects endemic to their environment. The insects get the alkyloids from the plants they eat, etc, etc. So, when you bring a frog into captivity and feed it the wingless fruit flies dusted in vitamin powder, there are no alkyloids to chemically alter to create a dendrotoxin. While it is true that they should not be handled for the sake of the frogs, I can attest to the fact that I have had no reaction whatsoever to holding or touching any of my frogs. As for the temperatures and heating elements mentioned somewhere around in one of these posts, it should be noted that poison dart frogs really don't need to have a heater. In fact, most do best in temps that range between 68-75 degrees F, and can actually be harmed by prolonged temps above 80 . . . so there are some dracs and masde's that can be kept with pdf's (from what I have been told by others). Restrepias seem like another natural choice, as well as other orchids from the pleurothallid alliance that are intermediate growers that love high humidity (80%+ at all times). Anyway, my point is that room temps are best for darts, and you will probably have to plan to ensure that your light setup doesn't overheat the terrarium and stress them. As for other frogs that do well in the 80 degree range, I have read that others find milk frogs (in my opinion, one of the cooler looking tree frogs) need temps in the 80's to thrive. Anyway, I feel like I'm rambling now, so I'll just stop.

Sahoyaref Have no idea ,was just told this by a fellow customer at HD.lol He was using it for its intended purpose to fill spaces in walls. Between plumbing lines in his case. He said that after 3 years he had to buy more as it had shrunk away from the pipes. He also told me it could not be kept constantly wet.So far have not noticed any difference between material underwater,constantly dry and constantly wet nor has there been any loss in adhesion. It will setup and cure underwater though adhesion is very poor. It's also a lot softer and spongier. Even if this proves to be true I don't see any problem. How could a terrarium go 3 years without a major overhaul anyway??lol I'm helping a friend create a rockface for Rift lake cichlids using the super expanding type. All kinds of caves and crevices at the touch of a button and the really great thing is almost no weight. This tank is 96x24x24 deep so you can imagine how much rock that would require.Not to mention the cost!! It is going to be difficult to paint where it adheres to the glass used a layer of black silicone before the foam which will be trimmed around the faces.. You could use various colored silicone to get a more mottled effect but went with black as he thinks it looks fine. Would love to try it to make Coral platforms for marine setups. Imagine having the exact size and depth and stability. So far nobody will allow me to use it in their reeftanks lol. Have found no chemical reactions in FW in 3 months. Personall,i believe if the swings are going to occur they would happen in the first week. Have not had a single fatality of plant or animal. gary

American Bullfrog (Lithobates catesbianus)