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Growing Tomatoes

Water/feed/fertilize - newly transplanted tomato seedlings

9 years ago

These are in 3" containers, planted deeply, in MG container mix. They were started in cell packs and are being grown indoors, under T5HO lamps.

I'm trying to water as infrequently as possible. I've been reading about the 5-1-1 soil mix (perhaps for the next transplant), but in the meantime, what do they need in addition to water?

Thanks in advance.

be

Featured Answer

lindalana 5b Chicago

9 years ago

Sounds good- seems you really need to increase your water and fertilizing needs.

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Comments (10)

oldbat2be
Original Author
9 years ago
I'd appreciate any specific suggestions for fertilizing (i.e., what to use and how much).
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I suppose it depends upon what size container is used. I know that most beginners make the mistake of using too deep of a container--like butter bowls and such for sowing seeds, but it is better to use shallow containers, such as pie plates for sowing seeds. In the greenhouses I worked at, we used shallow trays, no deeper than one inch for sowing seeds. For home use, I use pie plates, simply because the trays are expensive, with holes poked in the bottom. If the growing medium was throughly soaked prior to planting the seeds, it will stay moist for about 4 or 5 days without needing more water (while under plastic domes), and it is no problem to bottom water, it only takes about 60 seconds for the water to seep through to the top. You certainly do NOT want to overwater seeds at all , but not enough moisture will dry seedlings up instantly. Again, bottom watering is effective only if the mix was saturated at planting time. Otherwise, the mix, seeds and all, will float to the top and be a huge mess! I would not rely at all on applying uneven moisture--as in only watering the top without concern for the bottom of the container. The entire container should get watering throughly when it is watered, just as any containerized plant would. Remember, "overwatering" is done by watering too often, not by throughly soaking a plant, or seed that has good drainage. I have bad luck with overhead watering tiny seedlings. The blast from the water, no matter how gentle the spray, causes the seedlings to flatten. Of course, the do usually bounce right back, but IMHO, why take the risk?? When bottom watering will not harm anything! Of course, I am different than most--trying to grow like a professional without having a greenhouse, but I strive to germinate and grow every single seed that I have spent my money on. (I grew 15,000 plants from seed in 2004). I know most people arent so particular. And yes, overhead watering will work, we did it in our greenhouses all the time, but the equipment is different than what most of us have at home. To ensure even moisture, use SHALLOW CONTAINERS! Or rather, recycle those butter bowls and such things, but what is important is to only use about one inch of seeding mix in the container. Think about it: if you use too deep of a mix, and you have itty bitty seedlings growing at the top, those seedlings will dry out way before the mix 3 or 4 inches down at the bottom of the container will. And if you add more water for those seedlings, then even more water is being saturated into the bottom, which never had the chance to dry out, and this WILL create a drainage problem from too much moisture. Of course, this technique is for those who intend to transplant seedlings later, which is strongly recommended over "sow and growing" in the same pot. And if you have used a taller container, yes, it will take a very long long time to bottom water all the way to the top. I dont bottom water once my seedlings have been transplanted into cell packs/containers. Just thought I'd give some insight on bottom watering for beginners!! :) Ellen
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If you examine the ingredients list on a bag of Miracle Gro potting soil, I believe that you will find that it contains "locally" obtained ingredients. That implies that the quality will vary with manufacturing location. I have had bad results using Miracle Gro potting soil bought in the Chicago area. Last year, I used a home made mixture of 2/3 peat moss and 1/3 perlite (by volume) without lime and it worked fine, but, note that my fertilizer solution contained calcium. I buy peatmoss on sale at Menards for about $5 per 2.2 cubic feet. Perlite is $10.23 per 4 cubic feet at http://www.bfgsupply.com/UserFiles/2008Catalog/5_Soil.pdf. That is cheaper than any premix you can buy.
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centexan254 zone 8 Temple, Tx
9 years ago
I use Miracle Gro All Purpose (The blue stuff) Mixed at 1/4 tea spoon per gallon of water for the first two weeks I start using ferts. I then increase it to 1/2 tea spoon for two weeks after that. Then I increase to 1 tea spoon per gallon until plant out.

Once I plant them out I hold off on fertilizer for two weeks after planting to prevent any possible shock to the roots. Then I mix it as directed. If in the ground then one Table spoon per gallon of water mix. Applied once a week. If in a container I stick with one tea spoon per gallon of water, and use it every time I water.

(Note I use a palm full of time release fertilizer (about 2 or 3 table spoons) mixed into the hole I dig for planting. I use MG shake n feed for tomatoes. 3 months after plant out if the plant still looks healthy I side dress with a couple of table spoons of the shake n feed. If the plant looks bad I yank it, and wait a few weeks, and put a fresh plant in so that when the heat breaks the fresh plant will go full out gang busters in growth, and production. ) Where I am we have two short seasons with a long heat wave in the middle.
oldbat2be
Original Author
9 years ago
Thank you centexan254. That was very helpful.
lindalana 5b Chicago
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Everyone has different thoughts on what they want to fertilize with. Many people will use MG products. I do not support Scotts, makers of MG ferts and do not want toxic stuff in my food. Thus we go different route. I will provide couple of my favorite links for reading. At the Tatiana page you need to scroll down to presentations and workshops and download gardening in the containers presentation- well worth it. http://tatianastomatobase.com/wiki/Main_Page
lindalana 5b Chicago
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Again, not to bring up discussion about organic vs inorganic, it is personal choice people live with, not better or worse, just different. Second source I like and use much http://www.smilinggardener.com/organic-container-gardening
fireduck
9 years ago
The medium I used (MG) for my 4" pots had a small amount of fert in the mix. I added nothing to it, and my seedlings did fine. As others mentioned...if you feel a need to fertilize...due it VERY diluted. Babies burn easily.
Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
9 years ago
Yes to fireduck and Nate.
Most MG potting soils have fertilizer in it and if such it is mentioned on the bag (Feeds up to 3 months ?). IMO that should be sufficient for new transplants.

I use my own made 5-1-1 , with no nutrients. So I have to feed my seedlings with MG blue stuff and also have to add calcium.

Seysonn
digdirt2
9 years ago
I prefer using liquid supplements - either synthetic or organic as they are immediately available to the plant. The slow-release in MG and similar products depends on the moisture content of the soil to provide any nutrients.

Fish emulsion, fish with kelp, and several similar things are readily available and can easily be diluted to 1/4 to 1/2 strength for use. How often and at what intervals - average 10 days to every 2 weeks - all depends on how long before the plants will go outside to the ground or containers.

I commend you on restricting the water as most go to the other extreme. In the photo the soil surface appears extra dry but soil surface isn't a valid indicator for watering. Learn to read the leaf turgor - its flick response - as a good indication for watering.

Dave
carriehelene
9 years ago
Dave, that is fascinating. If you don't mind, could you please post a new in-depth post regarding watering, IE flick response and such, about watering needs of our tomato plants?

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