You're welcome. I had a typo above, and it should read "72-75", not "72-85". The plants should produce just fine once we have cooler weather as long as they are healthy and have adequate moisture. Even if we get a spell of cooler weather that only lasts a few days, often you'll get fruitset during that time as long as your plants have blooms at that point in time. One way to manipulate your plants into flowering when a cool spell is expected is to feed them a Bloom Booster type water-soluable plant food 5 to 7 days before you expect the cool temperatures. It won't guarantee fruit set, but it increases the odds. I have some plants blooming now, but the only ones setting new fruit are Ildi, SunGold, Matt's Wild Cherry, Tess's Land Race Currant, Husky Red Cherry, Black Cherry, Mountain Magic and Jaune Flammee'. Of those, only Jaune Flammee' is not a bite-sized tomato. Normally plants that produce bite-sized tomatoes are not as affected by the heat as plants that produce larger fruit. Once the high temps are over 100 though, even the bite-sized varieties slow down. Heat affects tomato fruitset in different ways. One way is that it can make the pollen 'sticky' so that it doesn't move around easily inside the flower. (Tomatoes are perfect flowers, which means the flowers fertilize themselves, but for that to happen the pollen has to shed from the anthers, and sticky pollen doesn't shed well.) To help out that sticky pollen, thump each blossom or gently shake each plant daily, preferably early in the morning, to help the pollen move around inside the flower. Another way the heat hurts is by denaturing the pollen which renders it sterile. The return of cooler temps puts an end to the denaturing of the pollen. Flowers that don't set fruit within a few days wither and fall off the plant, and this is known as blossom drop. In this case, it is heat-related blossom drop. Here in Oklahoma we are always in a mad rush to get our tomato plants into the ground (or containers) as early as reasonably possible without having them freeze in order to get the plants large enough to flower and set fruit well before the high temperatures arrive. In a more normal year, we might see the temps getting high enough to impede fruitset sometime between mid-June and mid-July. This year we started having those temperatures in mid-May in some areas. A lot of plants didn't get a chance to set much fruit because of that. It is a problem in many parts of the state this year, and in lots of other hot southern states as well. Patience, patience, patience....and some better weather would be really helpful too. : )

Do your leaves have some purple on the edges? Just curious, and did the leaves start out curling, or any yellowing spots?? Does it happen to the bottom of plant, upper or?? Could be both but without seeing any leafspot, I can't say. You said it got a lot of watering! DARN THAT GARDEN SITTER, same thing happend to me, except, they didn't turn off the water, and the soaker hose stayed on for 3 days. MY BILL WAS HUGE! If the leafs curl upwards and tend to get kind of thickened and leathery,could be physiological leaf roll. It is a protective mechanism the plant has under stress, e.g. from cool rainy weather, severe pruning, going back and forth between very wet and very dry. http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/PNW616/PNW616.pdf

I suppose it is possible that your lights might have started it but that would be unusual assuming normal lights. But any damage that happens inside is only quickly magnified once the plants are exposed to full sun. And "shade for a couple of days" isn't fully hardening them off. At any rate, if you will move them out of the direct sun into a shady sheltered environment outside and protect them for winds (which can also damage leaves) for several more days they should recover and start putting out new growth. The badly damaged leaves will continue die and eventually fall off. I'd cut them off now to reduce stress on the plant. Coloring of the healthy leaves in the photo is anemic but that may be the camera effect. So what and how much have they been fed? They should be much darker green at that size. You are also going to want to see if they are rootbound in those small pots. Dave

We need to see a photo of the plant please and many more details about the variety and way it is being grown and your location. From the limited information it could be any number of things including herbicide exposure. Dave