Allium....the ornamental onion is planted in the fall and at depths that correspond to their size...4 to 5 inches deep for the average, up to 8" for the larger size. This is the bulb you leave where it is if you wish it to re-seed and prosper to bigger numbers. When they begin to crowd out nearby plants, its time to lift and divide. Iris can be planted from about the end of August thru the autumn. If you are familiar with iris, then you need no further mention about how they are planted. If not, then I suggest you learn about their unusual planting needs that can make all the difference about whether they bloom or how well they bloom.

they are trees... why do they need to be watered daily??? its really all about the week or two.. its takes teh disturbed roots to get back working .. and how miserable the weather is during that time. ... if the roots arent working ... it wont matter if you water every day .... how big are they .. are they potted .... how big are the pots ... one trick with small pots.. is to plant.. pot and all.. into a bigger pot... it keeps the smaller pot cool.. so it doesnt dry as fast ... and i would put either of them.. in full bright shade ... i would NEVER plant this time of year.. in my area ... especially a deciduous tree.. which might shed its leaves.. then insist on releafing ... way too much stress ... hopefully a TN person can opine more locally ... btw.. how much you have invested in these trees ... if you are willing to lose such.. go for it ... pros do it all the time.. but they dont pay retail ... ken

rick77072 - Plants know what to do and when and have their own schedules pretty much the same as humans. Yes, fall is slow-down-and-go-dormant time for perennials where we garden but that doesn't mean they won't establish root systems simultaneously. They just do it when their top growth isn't screaming for and demanding moisture to produce blooms. It's sort of relax, it's not as hot now so just do what you know to do without the demands for producing blooms. Here in southern New England, fall is milder temperatures + fewer hours of daylight so the plants have a chance to let their roots get a good grip on the soil that will sustain them the following year when they're expected to send up new growth, produce flower stems & blooms, store nutrients for the coming cold season, etc. I'm no expert; I'm just a gardener who did her homework before designing and planting perennials. Judging by what I see each year when my garden beds wake up, it seems apparent I did things right. So far the only things I've ever lost were short-lived perennials and my only regret is I didn't KNOW they were short-lived when I planted them. I did do a shade study before I even stuck a shovel into the soil or scratched a rough design for a garden bed so I'd know where there was full/part sun or full/part shade in my garden. I knew I had healthy, slightly acidic sandy loam because my parents practiced organic gardening for 40 years before I moved here. I just tucked that knowledge under my belt and started planting. I have lots of photos, just don't know how to post them since GW switched over to Houzz. BTW - GardenWeb folks were informational for me as well when I first stumbled across this form about 11 years ago. There's a lot to be learned.

i dont know timing in your zone ... but in my MI ... one of the keys is night heat ... a cool recovery period for whatever happened during the day ... so i used to wait until at least sept .. so the nights were falling into the 50s ... one of the biggest advantages was .. in fall .. the soil wont be drying every day or so ... a deep good soaking at planting .. and then mulch.. and there were good odds ... that i might not have to water again until next summer .. and when you are planting all over a large yard ... that is a great benefit ... there was one fall ... that was actually a drought ... and i did water again in november ... you water when the trees need water ... and you dont put the hoses away october first.. just because ... but i did have to disconnect them from the house and remove the wand.. to make sure the hose could let out water pressure and not freeze and burst overnight ... in your zone.. the freezing probably isnt an issue until much later .... just fyi .. ken