training or pruning? apple seedling grown from seed
Elifius William
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
growing apples from seed · More Info
growing apples from seed · More Info
growing apples from seed · More Info
after i re-potted my apple seedling grown from seed it just shot up with new growth. it has grown more these past five moths than the previous two years. am caught up between pruning its only lateral branch or just simple bending the branch horizontal(which i did whiles i make up my mind to prune it off or not) the branch has grown quick in the past four months giving the main shoot/leader serious competition..... check out the pics
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Konrad..just outside of Edmonton Alberta
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoElifius William
9 years agoRelated Discussions
help with training young apple tree
Comments (2)Thanks for the advice; otherwise, I wouldn't have thought about fruit sunburn. It seems like pruning to a main leader will be best for my dwarf Goldrush. Since it has such a short growth potential, I guess I will just let the first tier of branches start 18 inches above the graft union. Each year thereafter I think I should be able to prune and train the leader for growing another 18 inches before letting each following tier of branching to develop. I was glad the instuctions sent with the tree, indicated that it will always need to be staked. Knowing that will keep me from making a mistake by expecting it's roots to develop well enough to support this tree. With the semi-dwarf sized Fuji apple tree, I planned to begin 30 inches above the graft union for the first tier of branching, and each time thereafter space the next tier of branching about 18 to 20 inches above that. It is not yet clear to me as to how the tree will grow and react if I try to prevent it from growing above 10 feet tall. Of course while the Fuji apple tree is growing in a pot over the next couple of years that should not be a concern. After that though, if it develops well enough, and thereafter enters into full enough dormant state, well enough, I plan to try and safely plant it in the ground. Once planted in the ground, and it reaches 10 feet tall, I am wondering if I can just keep pruning out any new buds which would otherwise allow the tree to keep growing higher. Hopefully I will not find that each pruning job thereafter becomes to demanding for me to expect that I will be able to keep the tiers of branches from spreading more wide than what looks best with the tree's main leader and tier structure....See MoreApples grown from wild apple seeds
Comments (31)That's pretty much what I would do speedster1. I don't get in a hurry about planting them because they will develop a good amount of roots in the refrigerator. Sometimes plant them straight in a pot with the seed still damp and sprout them using soil mixed with ash. Both methods work but if you use a grow light place It just over the apples so they don't get spindly trying to reach for the light and keep a fan on them part of the day to simulate wind which makes them stocky and hardens them off. The top leaves should rest almost on the fluorescent bulb and as they grow raise the bulb slightly.In Kansas it's very windy so they won't survive if you don't do use a fan. If you have a Seedling you like on its own root you can cut off some new growth and dip the cutting in clonex rooting gel stick it in a pot of sand and place a jar over it to control humidity and clone your cuttings in that way. If you want seedlings or clones to grow faster place them on a heat mat. You get the idea. Cloning is faster with some plants. What no one tells you is that seedlings roots are always better than layered cuttings of rootstock because they have a tap root vs side roots only. Tap roots head straight down but side roots are more shallow. There are more ways to do this stuff than what I mentioned but that's a few tricks....See MoreGrowning from seed - My Babies
Comments (3)Your babies look really healthy and nice. I would definitely keep them evergreen till they bloom, or at least for two years till they reach the size that bulbs traditionally bloom. I experienced that baby bulbs that are forced, really hard to start growing again and develop very slowly. Though it might be due to the fact that most of these babies that break down do not have enough roots yet either....See MoreApples grown as Houseplants
Comments (20)As a 'house plant' Apples simply aren't that, unless of course its a 'hot house' with a cold frame on one of the sides of it. I cant even think of what one would look like next year with out the cold triggering of the winter months. For the size of them in the pots ( and pot size) it may at times be to cold if kept outside during the winter on coldest days for to long. For now they look good but very soon they are going to be in a lot of trouble. Summer concerns: ( with 8 apples 3 pear 3 peach 2 plums a few grapes, cherry trees, quince and other such zone hardy fruity delight as pigs) After May the less rain that falls the better Summer sun is early AM then a splash of late PM. If warm enough you'll stem the roots to oblivion in the TC pots but only because they vent so darn well. Heat @ apx 80 F will pass through the pots and do the stem root deed for you in short time Keep in mind Apples don't really need watering during the summer months ( Hence less watering to avoid other problems root rot, pest ect.) They could be jockeyed in and out during the lowest temps times to a semi bright very cool area inside. If OP has a three season porch for example they could leave them there for a number of days and bring back out on less colder days. Keeping in mind a dormant tree doesn't need a lot of brightness and cooler air is damper air and that cooler air allows moisture to move a wee bit slower. ( Frost on windows for example ) Yes you can even let some snow fall into the pot at times as well prior to retraining it to the three season porch or cold frame.. As seed starters though ? ( propagating from a sucker cutting which I have done ) I imagine some pot moving in and out will need to be done during the colder days /and or nights The pots being put out and bought back in may need to be practiced . Keep in mind they can handle a bit of of time out side and if a milder winter (like this year) they can stay out but wont be able to handle to much time in sub zero temps to mid 20's out side because of the pot size and type. At the same time the OP will need to keep the pots from breaking during times of hardest frost as the very good at venting TC pots don't expand or contract very well they will crack and or shatter at will I would have used an equivalent sized nursery pot which OP can do and hopefully ASAP. A rose by any name is still a rose....See MoreKonrad..just outside of Edmonton Alberta
9 years ago
Bill Fleming
9 years agobenfisher
9 years agojolj
9 years agoElifius William
9 years ago
clarkinks
9 years ago
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