Water -- Drought -- and Roses
jerijen
9 years ago
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jerijen
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Roses & Drought Tolerance
Comments (8)There are some wonderful resources available that might help us rose lovers. A book my husband and I love is Brad Lancaster's "Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands" (2 large paperbacks)and we also learned a lot when we took the permaculture design course in 2006. We're planting our roses in wells (as we do our fruit trees)surrounded by berms or on high-fronted terraces to capture as much water as possible during the rainy season (our permaculture teacher says that "the best place to store water is in the soil.") The wells make it easy to deep water once a week or so in the summer (young roses only). We're also trying to only plant really tough, water-thrifty roses (in our area that's teas, chinas, noisettes and foundies)and have stopped pruning in the winter as that's when our roses really shine (from October through June) so why cut them back as they're enjoying the rain and flowering? We don't try to force bloom during the summer and if we prune for height or space, that's when we do it. I think this regime just might be sustainable for us. And of course we also save kitchen and laundry water in wheeled buckets and garbage cans and take it out to our precious roses and fruit trees. We have no irrigation (black PVC "snakes") and are very happy we don't. I love hearing how others are dealing with the water crisis. We'll need to pool our creative ideas if we're going to be able to continue growing our beautiful roses......See MoreBig fines considered for Californian's overusing water in drought
Comments (50)Odinthor's essential point is right on, but it should be noted that the EPA figures cited are for the U.S. as a whole. For the U.S. as a whole, the percentage of water used for agriculture/irrigation (which are the same and do not include watering residential yards) is a relatively lower percentage than in CA because crop irrigation is most intensely used in the western U.S. and not so much elsewhere. The percentage the EPA gives for thermoelectric power is again for the U.S. as a whole and is a vastly greater percentage than the actual one for California since most of California's power generation use sea water for this purpose and relatively little from freshwater sources. (see comparisons for this at link below). U.C. Davis estimates for "developed" water use (i.e., that which is captured or otherwise accessed for human use) in California have roughly 80% going to agriculture/irrigation, 10% municipal or "domestic" use, and 10% for all other uses, to use round figures (these figures are also given in this Wikipedia article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_in_California). Alfalfa and livestock forage are almost always the two biggest uses of water in CA, with rice and cotton often in positions 3 and 4 (sugar beets frequently a biggie, too). The fruits and vegetables Jeri mentions, all of California's other crops, each take relatively small shares compared to the top four. So, as Odinthor points out, a relatively minor percentage of savings in ag has far more potential for big reductions in overall water use than even the most draconian cuts in domestic water use (or, in the case of California, all other uses of water combined). Too true about lack of regulation of ground water -- it's still like the old wild West on that front. Along with the problems of depletion and degradation of the aquifers themselves, land elevations in parts of the the San Joaquin Valley have actually sunk by 24 feet or more due to subsidence caused by ground water overdraft. (http://pubs.usgs.gov/circ/circ1182/pdf/06SanJoaquinValley.pdf) That said, it's still a sin to let water run down the gutter or use it frivolously, especially this year. Here is a link that might be useful: Thermoelectric water use...See MoreHelp: Best methods for rose gardening during drought
Comments (9)I've learned that I have to water differently during an extreme drought period. My soil originally started out as glacier slurry in a mini watershed. The soil consists of dense small rocks or stones with clay and silt between them. Since the soil has not received the deep watering during the winter months, it is dryer down at the deeper levels and seems to suck any water applied to the surface staight down to the lower levels asap. Mulching on top does not impact this natural dynamic. It does helps reduce evaporation, but does not help that natural pull of water to the lower levels. Since my soil is between the crevices of lots of rocks, once it has dried out, the water has a path to move to the lower levels. I found this summer that it helps if I use the sprinkler to water the top levels of the soil the night before I do my deep watering, which does moisten and swell the soil particles around the root masses of the roses and within the crevices between all of the rocks. This keeps the water I apply for deep watering around the root mass long enough for the roses to slurp of the water they need. Otherwise, it's like pouring water down an open drain. It's not a perfect solution, but it has reduced water stress quite a bit during a period of 3 1/2 months of triple digits. It's starting to cool off and the days are shorter, so I think I can skip this step for my fall watering. I still rely on deep watering as the best way to water my roses. I just had to find a way for the water to stay put long enough to be available to the rose. My method was dictated by my soil and climate. Smiles, Lyn...See MoreRoses and drought
Comments (2)I deal with drought daily. The brown leaf tips are usually salts left behind during the transpiration process. You might water deeper to leach the salts from the roots. Depending on how large your roses are, poke a sharp stake into the ground at the leaf-line and use it like a dipstick. Within 24 hours of watering your roses, it should penetrate to about 16-18". Your roots are probably at about 14-16" deep, depending on size, age and type of rose. If the stick won't penetrate that deep, you may have hit a rock or dry soil. Try again. If it won't penetrate, you need to increase the amount of water. This doesn't mean you need to increase the number of cycles you water, just the amount of water. In my area, depending on the type of watering system, we water an average of 3x a week during summer for drip systems and once a week or two on flood irrigation systems which deliver a lot more water. To discourage salt buildup, which can become lethal to the bush, discontinue or drastically reduce fertilizers when the soil and air temperatures are high. Gravel, rocks, block walls, etc will increase temps, too. We usually use a slow-release fertilizer like Osmacote during our summer month (June thru late September). You've heavily mulched? Four inches or more? That'll help a LOT with keeping the roots cool, retarding competing weeds, and reducing the amount of moisture loss. You can also erect some type of sturdy shade structure for the hottest times of the day if you're in a sun-rich growing environment like Phoenix. Roses have several methods of telling you they're thirsty. Foremost is drooping of buds and top leaves. Loss of bottom leaves is fairly common since they are the oldest leaves on the bush and drop naturally at least once a year. Reduction in bloom and new growth actually helps a rose bush tolerate hot temperatures so lowering your expectations is beneficial, too. The best method is the sharp stake in the ground method. I don't know of any moisture probe that goes deep enough for rose roots. Probably more costly than needed anyway....See MoreKippy
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