So, of course, I tend to do things backwards. After I posted, I used the search engine here using the term "notifications." Apparently, Verizon does not work with GW. I don't really want to set up an a second email account for GW. Here is a link that might be useful: Well, here's my answer.

Don't even know how many homes I've put RG in at this point. I will tell you that I don't put RG and Blonde together much any more unless there is substantial natural light. Reason being you can hardly tell the difference between the two. In a couple of homes that's worked out well. Blonde was just a snidge lighter than RG so it all looked like the same color, but in the individual spaces the lightness of Blonde helped *lift* that area whereas the RG would have been too dark. If a definite difference between areas is desired, I pair RG with Believeable Buff. BB ended up being what several people thought Blonde would have/should have looked like next to RG. Had a couple clients repaint Blonde with BB because they thought there would be more of a difference. I suggested only partial repaints for them because RG worked out great just needed to tweak the contrast with BB. If you sample in your space and you can easily see a diff between Blonde and RG, it should be fine. Just be aware and really look before you decide. Don't assume RG and Blonde are a good pairing just because of how they are ordered on the strip.

Overall, this isn't a bad test at all. There are some things that require fixing, some that should be adjusted, and many that are just fine. It's good you used the starter on her lawn; she needed it! I'll account for the usage in my calculations and recommendations, assuming you went at bag rate (1 pound of P2O5 equivalent). Sample Depth 3: Four is the normal sampling depth, but that's no big deal. I'll adjust your answers to match a 4" horizon. Exchange Capacity 7.5: Silty sand, probably. The soil holds a tolerable level of resources and testing every other year will be sufficient to make sure nothing's going awry once it's adjusted. pH 6.4: Right where it should be, which is because most of the resources that generate pH are right where they should be. I'll want to adjust a few of them a little bit, but will do so in a relatively pH neutral manner. Organic Matter 4.8%: Nicely in the Good range. Certainly mulch mow, mow all fall leaves, and feed organically if you want, but this is not an emergency. The EC of the soil is high enough that there's no reason to specifically work on organic matter to raise the EC. Sulfur 11: A nice answer, with plenty of margin for adding sulfate-based chemistry to adjust things. I don't need much margin. Phosphorus 77 (103 adjusted): Low, and definitely impacting lawn quality. Target here will be 200. To adjust this, we use starter fertilizer, and my recommendations are below. Calcium 64.6%: Right in optimal range, although with a lower EC soil I'd like to adjust this a tiny bit (that 50 pound [67 pound adjusted] shortage is minor, but...) For this, we use gypsum, which is available at many big box stores, landscape shops, and garden stores. Get the pelletized, it's much easier to handle, if available (and it usually is). My goal here is to nudge the calcium levels closer to 70%. Magnesium 15.4%: Perfect. No magnesium is required or desired. Potassium 5.0%: Perfect (the previous test was wrong on this, I think). No potassium is required or desired, and this is absolutely optimal. Sodium 1.0%: Perfect. Sodium does nothing for a lawn, so very low levels are desirable. The gypsum might reduce this a tiny bit and, if so, great. If not, no problem. Minor Elements: Boron is deficient. The rest are fine, although if you wish to use Milorganite (high iron), that would probably improve the lawn color a little bit over time. Boron <0.2: Deficient. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 12.5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: Seeding Time: Starter fertilizer at bag rate (you already did this). October 15: Starter fertilizer at bag rate. November 1: Apply 5 tablespoons (not a misprint) of 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet. April 1, 2016: Apply 5 to 10 pounds of gypsum per thousand square feet (I'd prefer 7, actually, but anything in that range is just fine). Memorial Day 2016: Starter fertilizer at bag rate. Labor Day 2016: Starter fertilizer at bag rate.

Your bathroom has a lovely base. It’s also natural to hyperventilate and have doubts/regret when you’re at this stage; it’s not decorated/done. You will nit-pick over things now that you won’t care about or remember in 6mo; it happens. I honestly don’t see a reason to fire a designer. For me, two things stand out: Unlike the inspiration pic, someone chose standard shower glass rather than low iron glass. That choice is perfectly fine, but it alters the aesthetic when you have light colored shower tile. I’m surprised there’s no tile or beadboard tub surround. I guarantee there will be some wall splashes…even when careful. Here’s my new bathroom (no designer - just me). I love it, but I freaked out over the initial plainness, over my floors being “too white”, etc, etc, until I brought in texture and color. (Photos taken with dusky / overcast natural light. Porcelain marble-look tile and low-iron glass.) Go back to the ”feel” you wanted to achieve. Reflect on the color(s) that speak to you. You can do this.