Survival in the g/h this winter
greenclaws UK, Zone 8a
9 years ago
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LilBit7765
9 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Butterfly Gardening article on front page of H&G section
Comments (16)Seedmama - welcome, welcome, welcome! We really need more people from Oklahoma "entertaining" the butterflies with hosts and nectar plants and I'm glad to hear you are helping their cause. There are a lot of people on the Oklahoma Forum, too, that are interested in providing habitat for the butterflies, but not all of them post here. I encourage you to check out the Monarch Watch website as well. I am a Monarch Waystation, as is Linda and Sandy, and I live close to downtown in the older area of Oklahoma City. I "grow" lots of butterflies and sphinx moths, too, since I have a lot of their food plants that were planted here many moons ago (like Elm, Hackberry, Virginia Creeper, etc.). Some of the most common trees, shrubs, and forbs are host to a myriad of butterflies and moths. I winter sow a lot of my butterfly plants. Gives me something to do in the winter when its cold, wet, snowy, or icy. My seeds didn't do as well this winter (2006-2007) as they did last winter (2005-2006) for some reason. And, I'm finding that a lot of the native plants seem to do best just direct sown on the ground. I think they don't like all that rich potting soil, but prefer the lean soil they grow in naturally. Sorry to get off track here. Linda, as I said last night - your article was wonderful and I thoroughly enjoyed it. While they didn't mention Monarch Waystations, they at least provided a link to Monarch Watch which, hopefully, some will check out. I have to say (altho sometimes I get frustrated, disappointed, and tired), that butterfly gardening has given me much more joy than not. Susan...See MoreBlackberry Winter Survival 2015
Comments (28)Only slightly related to the current thread... Could someone point me to a GardenWeb thread (or two) which gives good info on year round care of my blackberries? Along with the why! It would be most appreciated. Some quick info: - We are in SE Michigan, outside Ann Arbor, recently reclassified from 5B to 6A, but I'm not so sure. - My wife is the Master Gardener, and gardens for a living, so I don't get to say too much. <grin> - She is responsible for the two rows of raspberries. - I'm from Georgia, so want my blackberries. We planted a 22[ft] row of Chester Thornless, and I am taking over responsibility for these. - We've had trouble with the red neck cane borer, and cut all canes back to the ground at the end of 2013. - I removed all but the most vigorous 5 or 6 canes from each plant at the end of 2014, because I think that's what I was supposed to do. (yes?) - I really need to know what to do right now. Spring is here and it's all about to start. So what do I look for on the canes (last year's primocanes, right?)? What do I prune off? How far back do I cut what is still there? I'm an engineer, detail oriented, data driven... but not a horticultural idiot. I've got a rather green thumb I think, but am not so good at mapping the day to day (or seasonal) efforts to the long view, big picture in the fruiting plant world. Again, any help would be much appreciated. And thanks in advance. ~Allen...See MoreVigorous rootstock & leaves for health & nutrients & winter survival
Comments (4)Really like the link of U. of Vermont of the pH of soil, and how to change it. It also has pH preferences of plants, from trees to fruits and vegetables. http://pss.uvm.edu/ppp/pubs/oh34.htm "The structure of the soil, especially of clay, is affected by pH. In the optimum pH range (5.5 to 7.0) clay soils are granular and are easily worked, whereas if the soil pH is either extremely acid or extremely alkaline, clays tend to become sticky and hard to cultivate. How to correct pH Normally, lime or dolomite is used to increase the pH, or "sweeten" the soil. Lime contains mainly calcium carbonate and dolomite contains both calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. Ground limestone and dolomite are less likely to "burn" plant roots than hydrated lime and are therefore recommended for home use. The greater the amount of organic matter or clay in a soil, the more lime or dolomite required to change the pH. Table 1 shows the amount of lime needed to raise the pH. Table 1. Pounds of ground agricultural limestone per 100 square feet need to raise the pH" http://pss.uvm.edu/ppp/pubs/oh34.htm...See MoreBegonia survived the winter outdoors
Comments (6)Fabulous! It sounds like the decomposition/microbial activity in your dump pile kept the temp high enough to stay unfrozen, even if it was covered with ice on top. That, coupled with excellent drainage, is usually enough of a microclimate for the roots of many tropical plants to survive. Putting a big pile of leaves over a plant that is not supposed to be hardy is one of the easiest "zone cheats."...See Morecamellia1_gw
9 years agomarguerite_gw Zone 9a
9 years agokaktuskris
9 years agogreenclaws UK, Zone 8a
9 years agomarguerite_gw Zone 9a
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenclaws UK, Zone 8a
9 years agomarguerite_gw Zone 9a
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agowhip1 Zone 5 NE Ohio
9 years agobikerdoc5968 Z6 SE MI
9 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
9 years ago
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greenclaws UK, Zone 8aOriginal Author