Hey Melikeeatplants. I know i can root them. I had really good success with my hardy kiwi where i just stuck a bunch of them ( different varieties in different pots ) and ran some drip irrigation to the pots and most of them rooted. I was just wondering if tomuri is a good choice for saanichton and if it will be hardy enough for Atlanta zone 7. But i already purchased sime saanichton and vincent females and some matua male. I already have in the ground some fuzzy i purchased about 3 years ago when i knew nothing about Kiwis. They were advetised as hardy and in fact are fuzzy , They were sold as male and female and even that i cant trust , i cant wait to see them flower. And since i dont know what are they. I will graft into them some Hayward scions from my friend in the spring. The citrus , yes i build a 14x16 ft thermal pane glass greenhouse with a solex roof. But you dont have to go that far. Just some double layer polyethilene will do just fine. I did heat the greenhouse for maybe 2 or 3 weeks only to keep the temp over 32f. You got my email up on my other post you can contact me and come to see it anytime

Hi, Charlie, Good question. So many times, terms aren't defined. If you get these mounted plants, you've still got options, if they don't suit your style. I love lots of the plants people seem to sell mostly - or only - mounted, the Haraella being one. It bloomed fine, hanging out with other mounties in one of the clear glass vases, about 8"x 8" each, with stones and a bit of water in the bottom. It's the one on the left: However, it was one of almost 20 mounties that needed misting/soaking daily. If I weren't such an underwaterer, it'd be multiple times: They're always dry 24 hours later, inside or outside, unless it's raining or super humid and cloudy out. When the mounties are in the house, most are taken from vases and sprayed over a big pot, one at a time, then put back. The mounties that don't fit in a big vase are taken to the shower, sprayed, left to drip for awhile, and then taken back to the orchid room. Outside, each is moved and watered separately. Every.Single.Day ... whether I'm tired, down with a bug, out late, have a sick pet, family member in the hospital, buddy in a jam. With the potted orchids, I can close the shades, turn off the lights, and leave them for at least 7 days, if need be. I started resenting the mounties. One of the old hands who used to post here said no orchid had to be mounted. Dunno if they were excluding the Ghost, but I've unmounted almost all the mounties now, including the Haraella, Aerangis fastuosa, Aerangis biloba, Dendrobium ceraula, Dinema polybulbon, Encyclia bracteata, Leptotes bicolor, Ornithocephalus bicornis, Phal. lowii, and Phal. parishii. Others, the grower unmounted and potted before I brought them home. Almost all the Sedireas I've seen were potted. As many mounties as possible have gone into sphag & plastic because they dry more slowly; 2nd preference is bark w/ sphag; last is straight bark. The plants in straight bark have to be watered every other day. It's a relief to be free of the every-day-or-else demands. It's been a month since the Haraella went from mounted to potted in sphag. It could be too soon to know if it'll be okay, but it didn't lose either of the 2 flowers, and buds on all 3 spikes are still developing. You'll figure out what works for you - the orchids will teach you. :) Whitecat8

This past winter was my first winter in a cold zone. Up here in the N. GA. Mts it gets cold. (The movie "Cold Mountain" was filmed in this area.) I brought 23 new roses with me when I moved from SE FL. last Sept. Everything was in 3 gal pots. The old lady living next door to me has 3 old HT's in 25 gal. pots in front of her porch. She showed me how to winter protect everything. It worked like a charm. 5' wood stakes, burlap and chicken wire. Put the stakes up around the pots in a square staying about 18" from the pots. Wrap the burlap once around the entire area using a staple gun to keep the burlap in place. Then put the chicken wire around the burlap using the staple gun. Then pack everything with fall leafs. When she gets up to about 4' she puts a layer of news paper on top of everythig, going around all the canes that are still sticking up. Then she finish's everything off with leafs. In mid March she takes everything down and spreds the leafs through her bulb garden (where her roses are), prunes everything up and bingo! Mr. Lincoln, Double Delight and Peace have been stunning all spring and summer. Mine, being in 3 gal pots I did just a little different. Packed all the pots together, covered everything with leafs, threw a layer burlap on everything and put more leafs on top of that . I didn't loose a single rose under this protection and all my roses are on cold sensative fortuniana root stock. And yes, several mornings at 5 degrees and a steady 20 mph wind is fair chilly. Many,many days we never saw anything above 25 drgrees. So I know with proper protection, roses in pots can survive a cold winter.

Vicci - We are in Southeast Ohio (on the zone 5/6 borderline) and often considered building a greenhouse. But after the first year of winter sowing I changed my mind. This was part of my WS set up in Feb 2009. That's how it looked after major ice storms, and an 8 day power outage followed by another 5 day one less than a week later. The only repair work I had to do from the ice storms was to re-clip a few strings. With milk jugs I would not even have had to do that. Those ice storms, and the damage they did to trees and power lines in the area convinced us that we didn't want to try to build a green house and then have to worry about structural damage or plant loss during typical Ohio springs. A greenhouse is also tricky to try to manage around here during the February heat waves - it could be very hard to keep from cooking your plants in a greenhouse on those days. The final thing that swung my decision on a greenhouse is that I could get a lot more "greenhouse" space for far less cost with my set up, and expand it or decrease it easily from year to year if I wanted. This is what one of the bags looks like up close: Instead of propping it up, I ended up hanging lines from overhead wires and clipping the bags with metal binder clips - but the final version was quite similar. Each tray gave me 1.68 square feet of growing area. I planted around 100 trays and something like 500 gallon pots (6 to the bag) that year - so that would have taken about 200 square feet of greenhouse area if they were jammed in tight (not leaving me any room to walk in and look at them.) Allowing for access paths in the greenhouse I'd have needed around 400 square feet for my 2009 sowing. And then in 2010 I'd only have needed half as much. Who knows what I'd need for next year - but with WS I can plant however much I want without worrying about having enough space in a greenhouse. Now having space in the garden? That's a different story. :) With this year's winds early in the year I was glad again that we didn't go for a greenhouse. We had enough stuff to clean up and repair without dealing with damaged glass or racing to rebuild a section of greenhouse before the cold killed the plants. We now got a number of our neighbors hooked on WSing and they've put their plans for greenhouses on hold. If you do live in one of the areas that can get winter ice and wind damage you might find that WSing works even better for you and with a lot risk. Lynda