T1-11 siding: Replacing rusted z-flashing?
rogerv_gw
9 years ago
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klem1
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Navien or Takagi Flash T-H1 Tankless Gas Water Heater?
Comments (20)As I type this my 14 year old tanked water heater is being replaced with a Navien 240. My warranty is 15 years on heat exchanger, 5 years on parts and 1 year free labor. No requirement for an annual service. Additionally, the company installing the Navien has a policy that guarantees if, during the first year I have the Navien, I'm unhappy with it, they'll remove it, and fully refund my money. They said they've never had a customer claim that benefit. All of their customers are happy. Last year, when the state tax credit was in effect, they were installing 2-3 Navien units each week. Install rates have fallen off a bit since the state tax credit has been dropped. Interestingly, they're installing Naviens only in existing homes. They were also candid that, like other new technologies, there were some hiccups a few years ago that needed to be worked out. In their opinion, all problems have been resolved, and today the best, most reliable tankless units on the market are Navien and Eternal. I chose the Navien because the heat exchanger is stainless steel, not copper, eliminating the need for the periodic de-scaling required of other makes. And because it appears easy to operate...more so than the Eternal. I'm nervous at the change. And I'll post back here after I've lived with the Navien for a month. I've got house guests coming later this month, and it'll be interesting to see how it performs with lots of showers, laundry, dish drawer use, etc. I'm so pleased to hear that Rob is delighted with his new Navien....See MoreReplacing T1-11 siding...want to do it right.
Comments (1)There are certain areas in the country, where the vapor barrier is opposite the conditioned side of the thermal envelope. Meaning the vapor barrier will be on the exterior of the stud wall. Unless you live in one of these areas, you should not see the vapor barrier from the exterior, but you should see the vapor barrier if you would remove drywall from the interior. They do sell a "z" flashing strip for where T1-11 meets, however I'm familiar with the detail you speak of for the band. I sided an entire structure with T1-11, but canned the idea of the previous band details. What I did was overlap the siding by 2", the band pictures is not of cedar but cut from RB&B (12" O.C) fir T1-11, and ran horizontally. Where the horizontal pieces meet, all are mitered so they overlap, they are not butted together. The band is also overlapped 2" onto the T1-11, and the T1-11 is overlapped 2" on the band. You would think the siding would _kick_ out or slope from the overlap, but you really don't notice it. This makes for a far superior element intrusion design than using a 1"x band with caulking. The grooves of the 8" O.C. are caulked, so no bugs/wasps etc get in behind the siding. But it's not to keep the elements from getting in. All the T1-11 and RB&B pictured were from 5/8" fir. This post was edited by Roof35 on Sat, Oct 18, 14 at 20:12...See MoreRepairing rotten T-111 siding
Comments (3)exactly what I was thinking millworkman! I was looking at smart side by LP the other day.. a cement board siding that is actually less expensive than T-111. I was amazed! use the 30 lb felt, Z flashing (great stuff) caulk well and paint when done. best of luck....See MorePreparing aluminum frames before pocket window replacement instal
Comments (24)I have decided to go the full frame replacement. I have been looking at various types of sill pan flashing. One product that I like (at least the idea behind it) is the Protectowrap Sill Pan Drainage System. It is installed over flexible membrame flashing and it is layer of sloped foam covered in a water wicking material designed to draw any moisture into the flashing and away from the interior of the structure or so it seems. Most methods I have read about use either a metal sill pan, liquid flashing or flexible membrane. The Sill Pan Drainage System seems like an added bit of security assuming your initial flashing and window sealing is done properly. My question is: Is it worth it? I got a quote for 100' (of which I will likely need about 50') for just shy of $250. Most flexible membrane flashing and liquid flashing is about $40-60 for 50-75' depending on width. Any thoughts or perhaps other practical ideas for making the best possible water tight/ optimal draining sill pan? I'm not trying to be cheap, just practical. This product must be special ordered whereas most of the other protecto wrap products can be bought off the shelf leading me to believe that the Sill Pan Drainage System is not commonly used in my area ( Austin TX) either because it is not needed or due to cost or better alternatives ....See Moreklem1
9 years agoSombreuil
9 years agorogerv_gw
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agorogerv_gw
6 years agoklem1
6 years agorogerv_gw
6 years agojusttom
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoklem1
6 years agojusttom
6 years ago
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