Navien or Takagi Flash T-H1 Tankless Gas Water Heater?
15 years ago
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overwhelmed by water heater choices - need to go tankless - help!
Comments (14)update from original poster: here is more info and quote for your review from plumber #1: i have original galvanized plumbing. eventually i will upgrade but not planning to right now (tapped out from the kitchen remodel). i live in northern CA (SF Bay Area), it rarely freezes here, winter is mid 30's, usually warmer than that. the unit will be mounted in my sub-basement under my house, it will not be outside. it is about 10' to the side wall of the house where it will need to be vented. to clarify for the poster who suggested i stick with a tank, i can't due to the need to remove the flue in kitchen and headroom in sub-basement will not accommodate the power vent tanked kind (wish it did as i would buy one and case closed..) it is just me in the house so max usage at one time is one shower and the washing machine. one quote so far: he recommended the TK-3, quoted $3800 ($2660 after tax credit) which included unit, materials and labor: install unit, run a 1" gas line from meter to unit, install earthquake auto shutoff valve at meter, provide and install new 3/4" copper water supply lines from existing lines in sub-basement, insulate hot water lines from unit to tie point, install SS flue pipe to sidewall of house, patch exterior, provide and install T&P discharge line, provide electrical to unit (not sure what that means, have question in to him), permit included in bid. does this sound about right and are there any questions i should be asking? what kind of maintenance is required for this device? frankly i like my existing tank that works just fine and i can ignore it. don;t have a choice so want to understand what i am signing up for with this new model. the other model he quoted was the eternal on demand hybrid which is more expensive and unproved track record since it is so new on the market. for my needs he suggested i stick with the TK-3. the quote for the eternal was $4700, same install details as above plus the condensing line....See MoreTankless water heater. Home Depot vs plumber
Comments (42)This post might be old but id like to respond. HI, Big Bias I'm seeing here... I would like to show some transparency so people know the actual costs. I would also like to note that i'm not including Markup to pay for things such as both types of insurance working and worker, Municipal licencing, Over head for a shop, Gas and insurance for a vehicle, the time it takes to order products as well as picking up/ delivering products. Expect a mark up of 26-37% on everything to pay for these items. If it's a Small one man company out of their home figure on the low end. If it's the largest plumbing company in the district expect to pay more. On the flip side they may get a bigger discount on the unit and hide that mark up in the unit it's self. My location is Alberta Canada, So keep in mind CND$$$. A typical 40-50Gallon Natural Draft hot water tank is 36-50k BTU's . A Rheem or Renai or Navian tankless is typically 140-205K BTU's . The Tankless will need a larger gas line. Usually needing permits. In my Jurisdiction The inspector gives a 4 hour window for inspection. So you'll be paying for a plumber for 4 hours. On top of that Tankless units DO NOT use the same venting as a Natural draft old style water tank. Thus a Venting inspection by the same inspector. Permit needed. So you will be changing two Major components of your homes "gas" and "venting" systems. Typical install time is about 4-6 hours. This includes, Turning off the water supply, Draining the house and tank, Unhooking the venting, Unhooking the old water supply. Then Mounting the new unit to a wall or Optional Metal rack carrier, Running new water supply lines complete with new valves and possibly a new Humidifier valve if the old one was above the hot water tank. Once the new lines are run, then they can Cap the old Vent. In some Jurisdictions this vent may be removed all together with a general contractor removing and capping the roof. Again more permits needed in this case. After the old venting is capped. then running new venting out of the side of the house. which has to be 12" from other venting or 3' from any opening door window or gas meter. If it's an older home you'll need to hire a Coring contractor to Core a hole through the Cement foundation. If the home uses TGI joists you can typically exit through there. Once the venting is complete the contractor can move on to the gas line. Cutting gas to the home for up to a couple hours Hopefully using "lock out tag out procedure" IE locking the riser while they work. They will open the outside of the gas line close to the meter Then Purge. Meaning to leave it open to air for 10 minutes. Some companies use a manual pump from the inside to push the gas outside. Once purged properly the contractor can start to take the gas line apart to add a tee. Remember he was supposed to "Size the gas line" at the time of Estimate to make sure your home has a large enough line for the added BTU's If he doesn't show the inspector this Calculation he could instantly fail inspection even if he did a good job. Most contractors will install a hard Tee then run Flex CSST Gas line or "Gas Tite" similar product. Once the gas is hooked up they do another purge the other direction. removing air from the line from the outside in. once gas is at the fixture it's time for commissioning. another 20 or so minutes till he's done. In my Jurisdiction the venting materials are to be Gas 636 PVC piping minimum. In multi unit dwellings it will need to be a higher spec. Cost of venting materials depends on length but the average is about $210 2" Double that for 3". Parts, correct type of glue Primer and glue. (the inspector checks), 2 45's 4 90's , 2 couplings, TY, 4 lengths of pipe. Seems rare to have an up and out easy unit. but costs obviously for that $60 or so depending on elbows needed. Gas permit $212.65 Materials gas $85.00 15' CSST, CSST adaptors, Nipples, Black 1 1/4 x 3/4 tee, Tape, jet lube, Materials Venting $210 4" B-vent Cap, 636 pvc piping & elbows Optional Rack $310 1/2" Plywood and screws $32.00 6 hours labour $510 Inspection time say we're lucky and only wait 2 hours $170 Owner supplied Tankless install 1219.65 Navian NPE-240A Wholesaler price $3044.22 Including Service kit. Some companies may get a higher discount through volume. Navian NPE-240A Amazon price 2800.00 No service kit https://www.amazon.ca/Navien-NPE-240A-Premium-Condensing-Tankless/dp/B00FAMAB2U/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P40Z2FYMVNSYE4DJ1A24 Also don't be fooled when it says 1/2" gas line the actual fitting is 3/4" it's just saying they have a special valve inside that allows for lower gas flow but in turn the burner does not run at full capacity. Total Canadian Dollars $4263.87 Transparent Fair pricing...See MoreCost of Gas Powervent Water Heater
Comments (11)I have a Rheem which is the same as a Rudd and Paloma... at least it was when I purchased mine. I have had it almost 3 years with no problems. I would put the Rheem, Rannai and Takagi as comparable units, with some specific things that may recommend one over the other - such as one brand might have a size that is a closer match to what you need, for example. I would stay away from Bosch units. They made a disastrous Aquastar unit and that taints my perception of their entire line. The Navien is a little different, in that it uses a stainless steel heat exchanger and lower operating temps that they claim causes less mineral buildup. They also have a line of units that include a built-in circ pump and small buffer tank (all of the units ending with "A"). I also believe that all of their units are condensing units. Some of the other brands offer condensing units as well. A condensing unit that vents via PVC will allow you to vent the unit using inexpensive materials instead of stainless steel. The Navien units have an energy factor of 0.95 - 0.98 (condensing) a standard tankless will have an energy factor of 0.82-0.85 while a Rheem power vent tank has an energy factor of 0.57 -0.64. These energy factors are just the ones that I looked up, however they are representative. As you can see, a typical gas tank heater wastes about 35-40% of the energy that goes into them. Tankless also include options like a remote control - so you can set your shower temp to exactly what you want and not worry about scalding, for example. The warranty on these things is pretty good (Navien is 15 years heat exchanger and 5 years everything else). Keep in mind that these things are pretty small (mine was 60 pounds and came in a box, UPS.) You can always take it off the wall and drop it off somewhere to be repaired if need be. They should be delimed with vinegar every couple years - and that's something you can hire done or learn to do yourself. The good news is that you can do it at all. Tank heaters don't lend themselves to cleaning very easily. I'm very happy with mine - I like everything about it, the size, the energy savings, the endless hot water. It does take about 2 seconds longer to get hot water, however. If I had it to do again, I would look at a condensing unit from Navien (I say that without knowing the price)....See Moretankless water heaters
Comments (25)Fixin, Look, when all you do is cite the negatives, don't mention any positives, and talk about the ancillary issues as if they are problems that everyone is going to face, I would call that FUD. When you talk about tankless heaters, not only is the glass half empty, but we are all going to choke when we drink from the glass, drop it, cut an artery on the glass shards and bleed out on the floor. Not all of us live in a hurricane prone area. There are real advantages on gas installations: Energy savings, continual hot water, small size and potentially lower costs to install are several of those advantages. Tax incentives and utility rebates can sweeten the deal more. That said, there are some potential drawbacks, as you have pointed out. My own experience in an older home (1920) is that it was cheaper than installing a powervent unit or a flue liner in the masonry chimney. Little gas piping need to be done (I moved the heater to be closer to the bathroom) and with the tax break, the payback of the difference between that and a conventional heater (which wasn't really an option) is about 5 years at current energy costs. That's not great, but every time the cost of gas goes up, I'm glad I made the decision. I would say that my experience isn't the same as everyone (a two story stainless steel vent through the roof could make this prohibitive, for example) but it's going to be similar for a lot of folks. My point is to get real information out there, not marketing hype, and not FUD, so that people can make good decisions. Alphonse, if you were following along with the real reasoning that gas tankless are more efficient (less wasted heat in the flue gases) you would realize that the above summation isn't correct....See MoreRelated Professionals
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