To staceyneil; Sorry, I've been off-line for a few days, but I see you're getting good advice from others that have also helped me here in the past. What JW said very well about one mfg product's being sold, I can't say for sure but he certainly seem to know the story well. When I quoted $40, it was for teh exact blue box re-ignitor unit, on e-bay when I last looked in Oct'ish. I just did a search for it using BOTH the RI120e-4 number that's on the Tytronics OEM unit, and also the part number (also on that blue OEM box - i snapped a pic of mine upon delivery to be sure I know what to get later if needed), and that # is PA020041. That PA number appears to be the same OEM unit used on some Viking stoves. I found a $60 buy it now and a $110 bid price on another. AS JW or another said, if you also search for either of those numbers, or # PA020047, on Amazon or even Google, you'll find alternatives much cheaper than your indicated $140 est. I THINK but cannot say at 100% certainty as I haven't tried it, that the PA...47 unit will work, but the spark cycle/speed is a tad slower than the OEM blue unit. Taht said, I can see no reason it won't work, and even the old OEM blue units you can likely still find some at various internet sites at cheaper than $140. It may take some time, but I bet you can find it. Black88, thanks so much for teh info on how to get to the (spark) electroids under teh top, make sense. FWIW, I did find replacment individual burner electroids on-line, VERY reasonable, at only $21 apiece, but the shipping was $15. Maybe you can check there if you order your module AND a spare electroid, perhap a better deal... reach them via e-mail at sales the atsign guaranteedparts dot com As for teh rest of you with oven temps... Our normal cooking is around 350-425, and I noticed right at the start, at lower temps, the control varies, so I got 2 fairly good oven thermoters and placed on a rack in about the center of teh oven. After some pre-heat, and sometimes fairly extended run times, our oven out of the box was about 15-20 degrees on teh LOW side (real temp compared to teh markings on the painted-on dial). SO I took to the adjustment. Now, I cannot recall if I turned the set-screw left or right for my adjustiment, but I do remember researching on You Tube and/or other Googled sites, and just an FYI, the adjustment on gas vs electric is very different. I dount you should be afraid to try, but do realize, you probably want to tweak the adjustment screw NO MORE than a QUARTER of a turn each time. A little goes a long way. THe process, just as a poster above suggested, was EXACTLY as mine did. The flat-head screw way in the center of teh shaft is almost (to my bad old eyes) invisible, but with a long, thin (almost jewler's screwdriver), I gently kept placing and "feeling" until I felt the blade bottom inot the screw head, and then slowly turned. If I recall (this was right before Thanksgiving), I think I tried/readjusted 3 times, 3rd time being the charm. Again, we use mostly 350, or 425, and ours is about as dead-on as I can imagine. It worked thru everyday family cooking since Oct install, thru a great Thanksgiving and Christmas cooking event for a house-full. So far, very happy with the unit, even moreso now that (thanks to user above) I know I can get to change the spark electroid on the burners if need be, easily, even tho it means pulling the unit out a bit. Cheers all... If I find a cheap source for any of teh parts, I'll update, but do try the site above or call them at 514 685 5202

ardcp, if you read through the previous posts, most of the complaints are air leakage. None of the ratings that you've mentioned would measure that issue. Every window is tested structurally as well as thermally, and those structural tests (including air leakage) are available... although you may have to hound your sales person to get them. Here are my general thoughts on the product: POSITIVE: Large profitable company, solid warranty, and to be fair, much of their reputation for quality (or lack thereof) probably comes from the fact that every "Chuck in a truck" contractor has access to the product whether they do a good job or not. Pricing is generally very aggressive. NEGATIVE: Performance ratings are not at the elite level, and generally meet minimums for energy star etc. In my opinion, those ratings are pretty indicative of quality as well. They use a pocket sill that drains water through the frame on most of their products. This is an outdated and flawed design IMO, as I have seen failures lead to substantial damage. Lastly, in my experience selling and installing the product, I was not impressed with quality control, and experienced a higher ratio of service issues than that I experienced with other products. Let me also say that unless you are in a hot climate, a u value of .29 and shgc of .19 is not optimal. Moderate to cool climates will benefit from a higher shgc, like .25+. That can vary depending on many factors and is a very general recommendation. The Alside product is also sold under several aliases, including the Window World models (Sheffield/UltraMax is the 6000 I believe), Revere, Preservation, and Enviroview... I'm sure that there are a couple others that I'm missing as well.

Reply to olchik, we had Alside window's and a french door put in our house and 2 of the windows and one whole side of the french door is cloudy and has spots on the inside. We had a company come in and do siding windows and doors,that company is now out of business and we have no paperwork,even tho we were told they had a lifetime warranty, hope we have good luck when we call to have them replaced!

Your right. I was at work when I posted and thought I remembered everything. I obviously didn't. 19 Double Hung and 3 Basement windows. Maybe this helps more. America's Window: ~16000 for Geneva Elite Series 14000 for Gorell 5300 Series-offer only good on the spot http://www.americaswindowusa.com/windows-doublehung.php Air-Tite: ~16000 for their own Window. He didn't leave me with a brochure. I was hoping more informed users here may have known the quality of their window. I believe he said they only had one. Their site seems to support this. No model name there either. ~14000 if I purchased at least 3 windows on the spot. http://www.airtitehomeproducts.com/win_styles.php Window World: I believe I gave all the info for them. 7500 for Earthwise Eclipse manufactured by American Window and Glass. http://www.windowwisellc.com/ Actually I was more suspect of the on the spot decision for a discount more than than the inexpensive price. In some respects I would have a hard time trusting them based on that experience. Your suggesting getting more bids? It seems it would be helpful to get the models before I even had them come out? That way I would have a better chance of getting more quality quotes(in terms of the windows). In that respect I could filter based on the quality of window ahead of time. I agree with you about selling the home. I have considered just keeping what we have, maybe even refurbishing them or at least seal them better, and offering a window allowance for the next buyer if it comes up. That way they can pay the difference if they choose a more expensive window. Is this enough info for a better judgement. These are the exact manufacturers and models short of Air-Tite which has their own model that I was hoping the community may have more insight on. Thanks for your reply and help.