The requirement for residential handrails is not a max radius of 2" (which would be a diameter of 4") . The IRC limits handgrip design to two kinds: Type I and Type II. To put it simply, Type I is round (or almost round) and is limited to a max. diameter of 2" or a maximum perimeter dimension of 6 1/4" and a maximum cross-section dimension of 2 1/4". Type II is a non-round handrail that exceeds 6 1/4" in perimeter dim. and has slight finger recesses along the sides. It is also limited to a maximum overall width of 2 3/4". You will find that these dimensions match the most commonly available wood handrails. A 3" diameter antique railing would not meet the requirements of a Type I handrail but if it was no wider than 2 3/4" (or close to it) and it was possible to get your fingers around the upper part of it, the building inspector is within his authority to accept it as a Type II, if he thinks it serves the intended purpose of the IRC or is equivalent to its provisions. As for the flat 2x4/2x6 handrails, assuming the stairs are high enough to require a handrail (4 or more steps), and were built after the building code was adopted, they should have been 1x4's trimmed with radiused edges to be no more than 2 3/4" wide overall in order to meet the Type II grip requirements. It would be easy to add a standard Type II wood handrail on top of the flat boards. As for termination of handrails, the IRC requires a residential handrail to extend to the last riser but it also provides two exceptions, one of which allows a "volute, turnout, starting easing or starting newel ... over the lowest tread". This allows a building inspector to accept a major deviation for the distance of the last tread, even the absence of the handrail if he believes it serves the intended purpose of the IRC or is equivalent to its provisions. Without this exception many traditional stairs could not be built. If there is a handrail on the other side of the stair, one of the handrail is not required so the inspector can accept almost anything. There would be no reason for a building inspector to comment on things he has decided to accept so I don't understand why you mention that. The inspector also relies on the design documents to indicate how many controlled elements (like windows) meet the building/energy codes. Not everything in a house has it's specification standards written on it. I mention all of this trivia only to demonstrate that building codes are not simple or interpreted in only one way as is so commonly assumed by homeowners and even builders. The authority of the inspector to accept alternative design solutions is also not commonly understood. In the end, it is not a building official's responsibility to make sure you meet the requirements of the building code; that is your responsibility alone, even if you privately assign that responsibility by contract to design professionals and/or builders.

I was refering to side mounted rails that are used by Kraftmaid which are side mounted expoxy coated rails with plastic wheels that slide down the tracks which are 3/4 extension. I am not that stupid to presume to know what the side mounted rails are like that are in your supposed custom kitchen. This thread is a good example of the blind leading the blind on here more often then not. For the info of anyone who wants to learn something and not continue to spread miss information soft close has an engineering purpose. The cabinet companies do not put them on cabinets to make you think they look cool. When you build a cabinet drawer to be rated for 100 lbs or more in weight the cabinet maker adds soft close mechanism so it is not possible to slam the drawer shut and crack the face frame of the cabinet. A side mounted full extension slide in an of itself is not superior an undermount full extension glide. I have several cabinet companies I sell that use them. They are not easy to slam shut they way they are made. They also have rubber bumper at the end of the track in the back of the cabinet which holds the drawer shut when you close it. Every cabinet I sell with side mounted full extension glides are the same as those on Husky, Kobalt, and craftsman mechanics tool boxes I keep my tools in. If you made cabinets that you are going to provide a warranty for, and you make the drawers to be rated for 100 plus pounds, would you want to warranty the cabinet frame would not fall apart in a home with domestic violence? The drawers would be slaming shut everytime someone is mad at another person and lets out their frustration on the drawers and doors. Their is a reason people make things the way they do. Just as I stated in the first post their is a reason the guy wants to use the side mounted that the person with the original post did not understand to restate.

Love your entry!! A while ago I remember someone entering a post with brick and travertine mixed on an outside patio entertainment area and front entry.The poster had flagstone on steps with bullnosed brick edging the steps. They had found great colors that flowed together It was very pretty and the textures worked well. If you do a search on outside entertainment areas maybe you will find it. That said, I agree with squirrel that the stone on the columns wouldn't be the right fit. I would stick with the wood columns, and if a change is desired maybe change the look with simple detailing. Love the retaining wall! Where is it in proximity to the front of your house?

The problem you are likely to have is in attaching to something solid. When someone grabs a stair rail it must hold them from falling in any direction. Factoring in the leverage they have from a rail 36 inches above the surface and you have a tremendous lever arm and a lot of force at the attachment point. Wooden posts need to be relatively large (3x3 net) to work as supports for a handrail, and need to go into the ground at least half the height above the ground or be fastened solidly to masonry using expansion anchors. The anchors need to be spread out enough to create a solid attachment. 6-8 inches apart is typical. Other methods include driving 2 inch angle iron into the ground and then bolting the wood to the angle iron (through fasteners, not lag screws). Steel may also be mounted in holes in the masonry and the post bored to match. The metal would be at least ¾ inch square tubing (just like a metal post). I would consider using about 1 inch diameter round steel rod mounted into bored holes in the stone and substrate (you need at least 6-8 inches) and then a mating hole in the bottom of the post for at least 10-12 inches deep. The picture you have does not comply with modern codes since there are too many steps to not have a handrail (though local interpretation and codes may allow this setup for exterior landscaping steps). If it is actually entering a house you will need to comply with the code (no landscaping escape).