side mount drawer rails of bottom mount draw rails?
13 years ago
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- 13 years ago
- 13 years ago
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Where to mount SubZero door pulls?
Comments (3)Good to know centered is an option. I wish I had taken a picture of the old cup pulls before I removed the panels for sanding and painting. I think they looked okay, but I wasn't evaluating them for positioning at the time! WindyCityLindy, I'm with you on the "why'd they do that?" aspect. I can probably rule out the top of the recessed panel position. Does anyone with freezer drawers have an opinion based on the height of the pulls? Putting them on the top rail would maybe be a tad high for the top drawer, but a good location for the bottom drawer. I'm a little concerned that centering them would put the pulls rather low ergonomically. I'm only 5'2", but my DH is 6' and that's a bit of the bend....See Morefor all you drawer fans... questions about drawer bottoms
Comments (18)Thank you all for your comments - it's very helpful to hear all the different points of view. Just as an FYI for anybody else considering Omega Dynasty, I called the cabinet store and asked if there was a way to upgrade the Dynasty drawer bottoms from 1/4" to 3/8" plywood for an extra charge... and was told that no, that is not possible within the Dynasty line. The saleswoman said that in order to get a 3/8" drawer bottom, we would have to move up to full custom Omega cabinets (rather than Omega Dynasty), and that doing so would mean a price increase of 40-50% relative to the Dynasty cabinets. A 40-50% upcharge would put the cabinets out of our budget range, so after reading everybody's inputs and contemplating our choices some more, currently we are thinking that those 1/4" plywood bottoms won't stop us from ordering Omega Dynasty cabinets after all. Best regards to all, r.a....See MoreInset drawers with no rails in between
Comments (20)Oh, this isn't hard at all. I've retrofitted a few base cabinets with drawers like this. Granted, most had a face frame, so it was just taking off the existing (stupid) doors, adding drawer glides and drawer fronts. In the case below, I stuck a face frame on an existing overlay drawer cabinet, then made the drawer fronts out of pallets and a board I found in the mud, at a friend's farm. The 2nd photo shows this cabinet next to overlay cabinets. Because the new face frame brought it out 3/4", it was flush with the overlay cabinets giving them a pseudo-inset look. A couple cabinets I put a horizontal frame piece (rail? stile?) in with pocket hole screws, attached drawer glides and then drawer fronts. The picture below was when I was still fussing with overlay cabinets. These uppers were 42" tall, but I wanted the look of stacked cabinets. (This is before I had my OMG AHHH HAAAAAA moment that my true love in life, everlasting adoration, is beaded inset cabinets.) Anyway... You could easily put inset doors in these. THEN, On some kitchen cabinets I took frameless cabinets, put the whole darned face frame on and have butt doors (no vertical piece in between the doors) installed. On these last cabs, I actually took a 24" tall cabinet and stuck a 12" cab on top of it (=36") then put a face frame on the whole darned thing so it looks like a single cabinet. Turned out far cooler than my very vivid imagination could see! Inset, of course. Please ignore the crap in there. I had to use the cabinets in the meanwhile. The top 12" cab had a face frame, so the new one I built went on top. I left the center style as a door stop. Note the tiny edge at the top of the bottom space. That edge of the cabinet is its door stop. With doors in: Ok, I also took three, 3-drawer base cabinets. 36" + 24" + 36". I made a face frame that is 96" long with the 30" vertical pieces. When you take the actual cabinet face frames stuck together, those vertical pieces = 1.5". My new face frame had 3/4" pieces. The extra, original face frame underneath became drawer stops. The inset drawer front fit right in that face frame without fussing with how far in to go. (A drawer glide must be 7/8" inside the face frame for inset drawer fronts to fit nicely. Original 3 cabinets: This is a close up of the face frame over the existing cabinets. Note how the drawer glide is inset 7/8". Here's the face frame installed. I haven't put all the slab drawer fronts on at this point. (Anyone need a lot of overlay drawer fronts? I have about 20 of all sizes.) You wouldn't need to build a face frame AROUND an IKEA, frameless cabinet, but on top of the frameless cabinet. It would give you a 3/4" deeper cabinet. You wouldn't need an end piece between them, rather a simple 1x2 (so .75 x 1.5) piece between mine. The face frame screws hold it just fine. I realize as usual, this is one of my novels, but what you're imagining can be done rather easily and VERY inexpensively on so many levels....See MoreGlass stair railing thickness
Comments (7)I quote nd sell glass railings all the time and have yet to ever hear of a requirement for standoff type fittings requiring 7/8" glass. That is why I suggested the building dept to see if it is their own requirement. You very well may need to use 9/16" lamnated glass however....See MoreRelated Professionals
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