Sashasmommy, I briefly googled Smart Strand and it seems like Dupont is pushing it as an environmentally "friendly"/"green" product. They do list stain resistance and softness as attributes. Does anyone else have anything to add on this newer product? valinsv, you have very good points about allergies. It does always creep me out to think about the dust and the nasty mites that are along the baseboards and other places the vacuum can't get to very easily. I don't know anything about engineered hardwood. Is it as durable/thick as the other kind (I don't even know what the old kind is called...serious knowledge gap here!) amyrsq, I have a really hard time with carpet colors. I would want something that remains neutral enough that I wouldn't be tied to a certain color scheme. I guess when I think about different carpets, I have memories of seeing homes where the carpets varied wildly from room to room (think primary & secondary colors). It was jarring, shocking and incredibly disturbing to the senses. Not to mention tacky. I don't know that I would have the decorating finesse to carry it off. So, that is why one color may be a safer bet for me.

I've dealt with 30 year old engineered floors with the original finish, and a couple of screening and topcoating over it. If you take care of floors and don't let kids play roller hockey indoors, you too will never need to do a sand and refinish. The idea of "refinishing" as a criteria for choosing your floors is not really a valid concern. Choose a quality major brand, and you won't have any worries. No LL or box store crapola. $5-6 a square foot and up is where the good stuff starts. Under that, you can get some OK buys, but you're generally gonna have to do a lot more homework to make sure. So, what does "taking care of your floors" entail? Vacuuming a couple of times a week. Not allowing food and drink outside of the kitchen. Using rugs at all entries to capture the dirt from outside. Being a no shoes indoor household helps a lot too, but I'm not going to get into that classic arguement. Don't mop your floors. You can damp clean them, but people get all hung up over sloshing water on top of wood, and that's just a comple no no. Use something like a Bona cleaner a couple of times a month, max. Every other type of cleaning should be spot cleaning. But with food and drink confined to the appropriate spot, spills are minimized. Abrasion from debris is minimized by rugs that you frequently clean. And in 8-12 years, you do a refresher of a screening and recoating. You don't need to sand down to bare wood at all. Unless you don't do the above and wear through to bare wood.

idrive65, Adorable model, what is your Dogs name and breed? Do you have to keep the toenails trimmed, how do you keep them short? We have two miniature poodles and a Collie and are concerned about adding a hardwood floor to the Kitchen. Even though we think that it will look great with the white cabinets and be much more comfortable than our hard tile floor! Is this White Oak barn wood a hard or soft wood? Your floors are beautiful, where did you find these and are they expensive? We live in the Mid-west, are these rare? Thank you for sharing! roseofblue Aw thanks. The pup is supposedly pure Labrador retriever, but we got him third hand and he's a mighty skinny specimen for a lab. I don't trim his nails as often as I should because he hates it, I do it badly, and twice I've cut him (ouch!) so he runs and hides when those clippers come out. I may try the dremel route mentioned upthread. White oak is a hardwood but not as hard as many imported species, of which there are quite a few between Hickory and the one imported that I listed, Jatoba. (Ipe, used for decking, is 3684 and considered fireproof!) Upstairs we mixed white with red oak and antique chestnut. In one area where dh wheeled on office chair back and forth (!) you can see wear on the chestnut, a little on the red oak, and none on the white oak boards. According the janka scale: White pine: 420 So. yellow pine: 690-870 Cherry: 950 Red Oak: 1290 White Oak: 1360 Hard Maple: 1450 Hickory: 1820 Jatoba (aka "Braz. Cherry") 2350 I agree with all who say the finish matters. The aluminum oxide finishes on pre-finished floors is very durable. Others have site finished with waterlox which is easily touched up as needed, you can search for photos of ccoombs floors for photos of beautiful waterloxed oak floors. My dh owns an flooring company that sells only antique remilled products so he made the floors for us. We actually kept a lot of boards that might be culled for a customer because I wanted a "busy" floor. Thankfully it matches the dog hair and hides the scratches very well!

hardwod floors are always and will always be the look. though people seem to not underatand thatbthe reason why these products exist outside of harwood. hardwood is just not practical anymore , yesrs ago youd have certain rooms with different flooring to accommodate the room , now, its all usually open concept and having patchy flooring all over doesnt work. honestly i just dont see hoe you can put hardwood lets say in a kitchen , kitchens take a beating , if you can afford to or want to samf your floors every few years , espec especially if you have a busy household , them go for it , i know of no one that has ever resanded their floors and if so , what a mess. so lvp , laminate etc… all have come along due to the demand for the wood look without the issues of hardwood , so its all a decsion though we have decided on 1400sq ft of coretec lvp, we just love the hardwood though just not practical anymore , i cant have adults and kids tip toeing on our floors. plus in the future if you want a new floor , just pick it up , no demo. just my opinion