Is there any way that you could easily shade the green house during the day time? Even a white sheet over the top of it would allow sunlight to penetrate but would still reflect some of the light producing light waves. Does your greenhouse have some sort of ventilation so that some heat can escape during the day? I don't see much problem with the high temperatures you've mentioned, but as the days continue to get longer, and the outside temps more temperate, you may have some daytime temps that are simply too high. If not to both of those questions, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Large temperature differences can actually accelerate the ripening of some greenhouse crops! Especially citrus. By the way, all of the plant species you've mentioned do quite well in very chilly temperatures, as I am sure you've already discovered.

tjsangel, They should be just fine outside along with your perennials. They are normally subject to great temp swings at this time of year. Crocs and Daffs along with a lot of early spring bulbs bloom just fine in the snow to a large degree. It's great that you were able to take lots of things with you when you had to abruptly move. Sue

Maybe we are confusing "chilling" with vernalization. With very few exceptions, spring blooming bulbs need a specified period of cool temperatures after planting to develop flower buds. This is called vernalization and is usually accomplished by just planting the bulbs in the ground in fall - the colder winter temperatures and soils combine to provide the necessary requirements. If you are forcing bulbs for early bloom, you must somehow replicate this natural process, typically by chilling the bulbs before planting.......some bulbs can actually be purchased pre-chilled or labeled "good for forcing". Chilling narcissus like Tete-a-tetes at 60F is not chilling them at all! They need temps at 35-45F for this process. The buds blasted because they did not receive sufficient vernalization. Some classifications of narcissus, like the jonquillas and tazettas (Divisions 7&8) originate from warmer climes and do not need similar periods of vernalization - these are the classifications that most often recommended for southern gardens or those in zone 8 and above. About 6 weeks before you want the bulbs to bloom, you need to bring the containers out of storage and into warm conditions and bright light, like a window sill. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Often forced bulbs will get tall, leggy foliage and flowering stems......this is an indication that they are not getting high enough light levels - not always an easy thing to accomplish indoors :-) Also forced bulbs do not last as long in flower as do their cousins growing outside, so don't be surprised if they only last a couple of days before fading.

I think the forsythia and the barberry are probably going to be fine no matter what you do (can put them out now), but the Acer might be another issue in that it may just get too cold for them w/o protection. I'm not clear on how you're going about repotting, but if possible, you might consider NOT repotting, only putting the entire container in some soil in the larger pot and doing your repotting in the spring. If that's not in accord with what you HAVE to do, just disregard. Al