Way to go lamcon. The Weed Hound is a GREAT tool! I wish I had stock in that company. I used to do everything wrong, too. Then I started reading here and, after a few hundred posts of people having success with this or that technique, I came to realize that the cultural practices of "proper" watering and mowing are really the main part of turf care. I just never knew what "proper" was. I thought I knew from reading all the books and magazines but they were mostly wrong and/or confusing. It is as simple as 1-2-3. Here is the 1-2-3 of lawn care that I have learned here. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. Mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. Bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses are the most dense when mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. Dense grass shades out weeds and uses less water when tall. Dense grass feeds the deep roots you're developing in 1 above. Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. I fertilize on the federal holidays because they are easy to remember. Using chemical fertilizers in the north you can fertilize on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. Since I use organic and I live in the south, I start on Washington's Birthday and also fertilize on the 4th of July. But don't ever apply chemical ferts in the heat of summer...only organic.

Many issues being tripped over here. But let me just repeat....for the specific purpose of killing broadleaved weeds in turf, the weed and feed products trade convenience for efficiency. The efficiency that is being lost is not on the part of the person doing the application, or the person who happens to own the property. No, the inefficiency is on the part of the herbicidal portion of the product-very little of it getting to where it can do its job. Fill up a canister sprayer with a liquid formulation of the very same herbicides and you will achieve far greater weed control while using perhaps 10% of actual active ingredient. That's what I'm saying. Whether or not to use these materials is a topic for another day, but if one must, then please, let's use those formulations that go to their targets, not those like this one, so-called weed n feed, where most of the herbicide never even targets the plants we wish to target. Most of it ends up washing down into the drains and on into our waterways. without getting into a finger-pointing exercise, any amount of this going on should be considered a problem, should it not?

I've been on an organic program since 2002 and am not aware of an organic weed n feed. Furthermore had you asked about a chemical weed n feed, I would have discouraged you from using it. It's one of those products that sounds too good to be true. The problem with weed n feed products is the timing is off in two different time frames. In the big picture you need to kill weeds in April but the grass does not need its first fertilizer app until late May. On the small time frame, weeds die best when the are well fertilized. When you apply wnf, the herbicide tries to go to work right away but the weeds have not received the benefit of the fertilizer yet. If you want to apply a fertilizer, it's best to use a straight fertilizer. If you want to apply a herbicide, it's best to use a straight herbicide. Liquid herbicides are meant to be sprayed on the leaves of the weed and not applied as a soil drench. If you lightly mist the dandelions with something like Weed b Gon, you should not bother the soil microbes or worms.

DO NOT OVERSEED. Why? Because, depending on what kind of grass you have, now is a very poor time of year to seed, or, there is no seed available for your turf. I'm looking at the label for a Scotts Southern Weed and Feed. The label is purple. Is that what you used? That product is ONLY for St Augustine and centipede lawns. If you have a bermuda lawn, then it's going to get worse before it gets better. And the damage is done, so you'll have to live with it this season. But if you have a St Augustine lawn, then the damage should repair itself in the next month or so. It also takes about 3 weeks before you see full weed control with this product (and with most herbicides). Now was not the best time to either use a herbicide or to fertilize. Those are two different things, and to think that one product can do both, equally well, at the same time, is a mistake. The time to kill weeds is in mid April. That is the time when all the weeds are up and growing. By using a post emergent weed killer now, you are likely missing the weeds that are just about to sprout. The time to fertilize is in late May. That is the time the normal fast spring growth is waning. By fertilizing now you force the grass to use up its stored nutrients faster so that by early May, the grass looks worn out. Let us know what kind of grass you have and we can help you plan out the future.