Bonsai soils are more about the physics of the soil than they are about what material the particulates are mad from. In most cases, we avoid peat because it is small enough that it collects in macro-pores, turning them into micro-pores that hold water instead of air. In my estimation, compost is worse than peat because it holds water tighter and its water release rate is slower. Plus, peat and compost break down too quickly to be of value in most soils for bonsai. Particles of a uniform size and shape will yield best drainage. Experiment: In a clear bottle, add a hundred or so large marbles - the boulder type, twice as large as a regular marble. These fill a 2 qt clear container and represents a soil with uniform size particulates and plenty of air spaces, a beautiful thing, this soil. Then, take a quart of BBs, dump it on top of the marbles and give it a little shake. The BBs find their way into the large pore spaces, but still fit handily into the "full" bottle. Then, pour a quart of sand (you can substitute the word peat or compost for sand here, too) into the "full" bottle. The sand filters down, clogging the remaining air pores and making the soil a terrible choice for plants. Sand is death to aeration and how did I get 4 qts of soil in a 2 qt bottle? By jamming small particulates into my air-holding macro-pores. You can build a wide variety of soils if you have a few things on hand. A porous mineral product that holds air, moisture, and nutrients - like Turface, Haydite, akadama, pumice, others. An irregularly shaped mineral product, preferably with rough or jagged edges that doesn't hold air or water - crushed granite or large silica (almost BB size) is good here, and an organic component in a suitable size that will resist rapid breakdown by soil organisms. We often use conifer bark to fill this requirement because the combination of a high % of lignin and suberin (in the bark) makes it difficult for micro-organisms to cleave hydrocarbon chains and destroy the structure of the organic part of your soil. I can't think of anything I grow in bonsai soil (houseplants too) that I use more than a 1/3 organic component on. I usually keep a large amount of soil that is 1/3 each of Turface, crushed granite (grower grit), and screened fir bark. I amend this basic mix as needed. Your mix may vary & use other ingredients, but this one won't be too far from what will work well for you. I grow most deciduous plants in the equal parts mix. Pines & junipers I use up to 90% inorganics in the soil. I even have a few plants that are perfectly happy in 100% Turface. Experiment, but don't be tempted to compromise your soil mix too much to simply extend intervals between watering - your plants will pay. Al

Before I discovered that our well water was high in pH and alkalinity I never really thought about using a fertilizer that might reduce pH and alkalinity in water and soil, but from what JaG posted looks like Miracid wouldn't help anyway. I am bumping this post off page 2 because I just saw this reply and wanted to comment. The MG type ferts typically deriving most of their nitrogen from urea *will* result in acids being formed in the mix itself. The formation of these acids can be very helpful in offsetting the pH raising effect of irrigation water with high alkalinity. The distinction I want to make is that if one wishes to exercise greater control over the irrigation water itself, these ferts won't do that. The acids are the result of bacterial conversion from one N form to another. The actual fertilizer powder doesn't have the acids required to lower pH or alkalinity all by itself. In other words, if you want to reduce pH/alkalinity of the water itself, add an acid to it. Vinegar is a safe, inexpensive, esy to find source of an acid (lemon juice would be fine too). Using a fertilizer that forms acids goes the extra mile in that it will form acids inside the container that can then 'go to war' with with the various carbonates and bicarbonates that would otherwise raise pH introduced by the irrigation water. As a side point, it's not necessary to accept a 30-10-10 formula (or whatever formula is currently being labeled as 'for acid loving plants'). Any of the water solubles that get most of their N from urea or ammonium sulfate will result in the acid formation occurring.

Ah, hex you want this to be so wrong. Sorry but you can look up the "no nutritional value" on hydroponics it's well documented. An yes your right the plants don't care what the source of those elements are. But we're not talking about the plants but what "feeds on them". But lets talk about something else. You mentioned a perpetual motion machine. Well, yes that's what life is. it's in the very air we breathe. The plants breathe in bacteria that has the nitrogen cycle living inside it. The plant nitrogen (waste) cycle is part of that too. Even in an anaerobic system that still goes on. I have apple and pear trees that are ten years old that have been flowering, fruiting as well. With no intervention from me other than water if I notice. That means no fertilizer either. The bucket design captures rainfall so that wasn't often. Oh, that's right there's another difference. Capturing the rain water is taboo for your form of hydroponics. I mean with all the measurements and such. Haven't needed to take a reading ph or other wise in more than 20yrs. As for growing something..a tomato. Really. Is that the hill you standing on. I'm showing Cashews, Macadamia nuts,, coffee, 3 kinds of Bio-Fuel. Apples, pears, Plums, peaches all growing happily in the system. I bring pictures of everything. There even Strawberries flowering this year that grow anaerobically. Let's just off the top of my head there are Norfolk pines, Fiddle leaf figs, Sago palms, cactus, White and Yellow Birds of Paradise, Orchids, Pony Tail palms, Citrus. All growing quite happily. Those pictures are already on here. As for water consumption on average each tight 5gal container holds about three an a half gallons. That water last between 45 and 60 days with out rain. If I get a good rain once a month I don't have to water at all.

That's a good point Joe, I use it to lower the ph of the tap water prior to adding dry soluble nutes. I believe this may assist in preventing any of the mineral elements from locking out while dissolving. It's quite likely that once dissolved, the elements provide additional buffering capacity to the solution. My ph does begin to slowly rise after about 1+1/2 weeks at which time I begin making small bi-weekly adjustments to keep it down. I usually go 3 weeks between change outs, at which point the ph is quite jumpy and can go either way almost overnight. Keep in mind that many plants can adjust to out of range ph over time but large & sudden ph changes are likely to shock plants into displaying a host of deficiency/toxicity symptoms. In any event it works for me, so I'll stick with it until I can afford those Ion exchange resins posted a while back. However I would still adjust ph before mixing nutes. Ken