It seems to me the notion of "eradicating" mites is preposterous. The two-spotted mite has lots of hosts and is widespread in every garden. What is normal in most gardens is an equilibrium where you have some two-spotted mites on the roses, some predators eating them, and usually little or no noticeable damage. At times, weather conditions lead to a surge in the TSM population and you have a problem, starting on certain canary-in-the-coalmine varieties that you learn to identify and watch for danger signs. If I bring a potted rose that has been doing fine outside into my sunspace, it will have a catastrophic mite problem within a month unless I spray it with soap or oil frequently. The basic reason is lower relative humidity. The mites were there all the time but not causing a problem. Mite outbreaks are often caused by spraying insecticides which kill the predators of TSM. The use of Merit is known to cause an increase in TSM reproduction apart from the effect on beneficial predators. If an insecticide must be used, spinosad (for caterpillars, thrips, and sawflies) is best from the standpoint of mite control because it spares the predators. Mite outbreaks are favored by high temps, low relative humidity, and lack of rain as well as by use of insecticides. In areas with rainfall, roses planted under eaves are much more susceptible to mites. New potted roses may be susceptible to mites because mite predators were killed by sprays in the greenhouse. I can always find TSM on my roses, but I very rarely have a problem. That's because our weather normally doesn't favor them, and I don't use insecticides.

Most insecticides that are not dedicated "miticides" only "control" spidermites, they don't eliminate them. There is a miticide available to the home gardener, its called KELTHANE. It does work, I use it, BUT....it doesn't eradicate mites like you would think it should. They will pop back out if you aren't looking, usually somewhere else on some other plant than the one you treated. I use a double-pronged technique in my greenhouse that seems to work well (and I have well over 75 plants, LOL, more like over 1500 plants). I spray infestations with Kelthane, ONCE, when I first notice them, and I spray not just the infested plant, but everything within a 2 ft radius. This is for quick knockdown. Then, a day or 2 later, I re-spray that same area and a little further out (maybe a 3-4 ft radius) with Neem Oil. This works very well for me personally. The only way to really eradicate mites, I have been told by others, is to invest in the predator mites, but that's more involved and expensive

Hopefully others will comment. I have never used these, but apparently, the very best products are those specific to mites and used in the plant production industry: Avid, Floramite, Akari, and others. BUT, many of these are for professional use only and require safety precautions. I doubt very much they should be used INDOORS. Also, they are very pricey but apparently go a long way. Hopefully Karyn will comment. It is also beneficial to lower the room temp to around 50 to 55 degrees at night. I have very few mite issues in my cool garage (but other issues like black tip!), but more in my home. Here is a link that might be useful: Miticides

Are you absolutely sure that you have spider mites? If this is the case, then a spray of 50/50 water mixed with 70% rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) should do the trick. Spray every part of the plant (also spray the pothos at the base), then repeat about three to four days later to kill the hatchlings.