My concern with using 3 2x6s for the beams is that they won't fit into a 6x post base, but I could just shim them at each base. I suppose I could use 6x6 beams, but I haven't seen those except as 8' long landscape timbers. My piers are all spaced so the max span is right at about 6', with the outside pier around 18-24" from the edge of the deck, so it sounds like I should be on track. Thanks for the comments. I feel a lot better about the design already. Kurt

You can "notch" the ply/OSB and still make a huge difference. Still stronger than nominal lumber. It does not have to go the whole 13-6 but I wouldn't go any less than the twelve. Unfortunately ever since the hit and run builders and big orange boxes came on the scene in full force it is harder to find people who stock it. Call someone like Eagle and find out who they sell it to in your area and see if they will sell you a sheet or two. May even get it for free as it is a "waste product" for commercial and especially government jobs. Electrical and plumbing are not an issue as much as existing cross bracing. The best way is to pre- drill the hole at the appropriate location and make a saw cut to the hole to get it over the wiring. The other thing that would make a noticeable difference is scrapping the subfloor.and replacing it with plywood but that doesn't really seem to be a viable option for you. Chances are good it is a clear vertical grain fir, cedar or white pine so whatever you do should you decide to remove and relay the hardwood on a new plywood subfloor don't send it to the dumpster. While it can be done by one person two is better three is best. Pull one side of the cut towards you push the other away to get the wire in. Hopefully when they replaced the knob and tube they at least went higher than I have shown. Get all pieces in place and lift the floor until everything is level upstair before applying adhesive (to the top edge too) and pinning (Screwing or nailing). The majority can be nailed but the area around the cut should be screwed or pinned with ring shanked, resin coated nails applied with an air,powder, gas or electric actuated nailer. The resin is worthless when hand nailed. The squash blocks are any solid material that will fill the void. You can also use an OTC flitch pate (Simpson or eq) if you uncomfortable with the slice. The other and often easier way is to just disconnect the wires from the closest junction box, install the pieces and then reconnect the wiring. Either way you will need to do some plumbing and electric and to remove it from your way would be well worth the hour± to remove and replace. Kitchens are not cheap and wether you are doing a custom kitchen or assembling it with OTC products it is a considerable investment and a major part of the value of your home. A Ferrari on flat tires performs worse than a Trabant on the same. 2x8's and 1X subfloor wasn't a wild guess and the reason you want to use a quality adhesive on the top edge as well. I am certain from experience that that (1x subfloor) and the lack of cross bracing are a big part of the springiness. Appliances are much lighter today than they were in the past. Make certain you always shut off the electric to those lines before doing anything. Hope you project comes out well.

Thanks for the replies. First, I will rule out the building the floor up - the bedroom floor has 1.5" subfloor+linoleum tile + 6 year old laminate planks. We would like to keep the laminate floor at this time, plus furring the rafters down will already eat up some valuable headroom, good thought, though. I don't know too much about GDO rails. I will need to look at that a bit. As far as the insulation, I am thinking about this - 1). 1 to 1.5" vent channel, probably constructed with 1/2" or 3/4" styrene with spacer blocks to form the channel (about R-4 for the vent chute) 2). 2-R15 High Density fiberglass batts (7" total thickness, R-30 total) This will require about 2.5"-3" of furring strips, laid on top of the rafters & plywood gusset plates to attach on the sides 3).Either 1" or 2" Extruded polystyrene sheets (R5 to R10) over top of the furring strips, with taped seams. Total = R-39 to R-44. About Number 3, I am undecided. If I use 1", I think I could use about a 2.5-3" drywall screw. With 2", I may have to use 1x2 or 1x3 straps laid transverse to the rafters to attach drywall. Maybe I will need the straps with the 1" foam as well, I don't know. Thoughts on this?

The joists are definitely settling due to the load bearing wall above. My architect neighbor is puzzled as to why they built it offset from the main beam. He believes Option 1 (pack notch and use standard hangers) will be sufficient, of course after the joists have been put back in place. Given the amount of steam radiator piping, gas supply lines, water feed, and some electrical in the way, I can't lift all the joists at once. For now, I have jack posts and 4x4s under the accessible joists to keep things from getting worse. I'll have to dismantle the steam piping to lift joists correctly, but that will have to wait for warmer weather. Also, to the question of span: the (2) 6x8 mains run 24' with (2) lally columns on each beam (approx. 7' in from each wall), the (3) sections of 2x8 joists are approx. 10' in each section (~30' length).