This thread opens with one of the most ludicrous yarns (no pun intended!) I've ever read on the internet. And I've been on the internet for a LONG time. A cup of alcohol, dissolved into even the small volume of water used in a front loader, is going to be reduced in concentration well below the threshold of flammability. EVEN if you just poured a cup of 91% isopropyl onto WET clothing, just before a spin cycle, I doubt the vapor pressure of the alcohol would ever get high enough to ignite if you placed a spark igniter IN the wash basin! This chart is for ethanol but it's probably similar for other simple alcohols. There's no way the concentration is such scenarios as the OPs was above 5% - or anywhere near it, So, the interior of the washing machine would have to have been >> 140F for spark ignition. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethanol-water-d_989.html They are gone now (probably a good thing) but for this scenario to take place as described a MUCH more flammable substance had to be involved, and probably more of it than a cup. Obviously, based on the traits that can cause 'laundry fires', there's always a way to safely remove organic solvents that are flammable. Anything with a high enough vapor pressure to form explosive mixtures with water, can be removed by just letting the clothes air out, outside, for a couple sunny days in summer. If your functioning nose doesn't smell anything anymore and you don't feel any oiliness, there isn't enough there anymore to cause a problem after wet laundering. I myself have spilled 4 cycle gasoline on jeans, probably over 1 cup, and safely laundered them. Letting the gasoline dry out, and then use a hot water wash cycle, standard laundry detergent, and TSP (as described in other threads here) to make sure the oil is emulsified and removed. (Ammonia would probably work almost as well) I smelled them before drying. No hydrocarbon smell left at all. That being said, if I had some completely ridiculous scenario like a pair of jeans that had been soaked in kerosene - a fuel that stinks but is slower to evaporate - I'd probably just throw them out.

Providing you are removing the writing to use the pipe for a non-plumbing application you may do so and its very easy. The PVC primer that we use to prep a joint will remove that writing. Inside the primer can there is a wool dauber attached to the lid by means of a wire. Just rub the writing with the wet dauber then wipe the ink off with a rag.

The alcohol is why hair spray works on many (but not all) inks. But it evaporates very quickly, so it can be hard to get enough to remove rather than spread the ink. The hand sanitizer is the same principle -- never tried it and not sure if I would have thought of it, but great idea to keep in mind for the future. I would experiment with different solvents in the dryer to see what works on the ink before trying the clothing since you are more likely to do damage on the fabric and dyes in the clothing than a metal drum -- but do be careful to avoid any rubber or plastic parts as much as possible -- just in case. If some of them have ink, work on them after knowing what works and tread lightly. Same with the fabric. The dryer drum isn't as porous as the fabric, so the fabric could be more difficult to remove the ink without damage. Do carefully clean the dryer and let any solvent completely evaporate or be washed off before running the dryer. GooGone, Acetone and alcohol are all flammable. Mine was a red crayon in a load of whites. Got it out of everything but the white socks. The knitted texture of socks makes them so much harder to get everything out.

Mix equal amounts of lemon juice and laundry detergent liquid and then place the mixture on the ink stain, leaving a few hours and at last wash the bed sheet with cold water.