I wonder if it's because I'm using XP? I get constant messages that I need to upgrade my Codex, which has failed, but it wants money to do it. It works on IE, but always with errors on the page. My kids tell me I have to start using Windows 7.

sameboat, I was wondering the same thing....if they were just trying to sell people two by saying you have to have this one for your legs and this other one for your face. But if there is a reason other than making money for them I would like to know. I was thinking, too, hair is hair. Anybody out there used their legs only epialotr on their faces? Or know why they say not to use it on your face?

Hi klb9596.. yes, you can cover wooden knobs...the only thing you need to do is to bake the knob before adding the clay to remove moistue from the wood. Put your knobs on a cookie sheet, tent the cookie sheet with aluminum foil (to keep knobs from scorching) and bake at 250 degrees for about 30 to 45 minutes or so (timing is not crucial here)so, the bigger the knob, the longer you bake. Let the knob cool completely. After the knob cooled, I added a coating of Sobo glue and let it dry completely. This gives the clay something to bond to. Add your clay to your knob, I did not cover the bottom of the knob, and used a tissue blade or exacto knife to trim off any extra that hung over the bottom edge. (by doing this, I was able to use the original screws that came with the knob (adding clay to the bottom means you may have to use a longer screw) and I also felt the wood of the knob would be gentler to the finish on my cabinet, and I was also worried about the clay cracking if I exerted too much force on the knob when putting the screws in. After you bake your clay, and let it cool, finish with a couple of coats of sealer (I used Future floor wax..let it dry then rebake for 10 minutes at temp your clay calls for. this sets the finish and makes it more durable)Bake after each coat of this finish. Or use a finish specified by your clay manufacture and follow their directions. The knobs in the link were gorgeous!! Good luck! Woodsy

Georgecarolyn, An Ironrite works fine for tablecloths, but because they are so large (the tablecloths) some people find they have to iron them folded. I prefer not to do that because I think it's hard on the fabric to have a crease pressed in. Besides, in formal households the cloth should properly only have one crease down the center. (Plus it's wicked hard to get the crease perfectly straight on a large cloth, particularly older linen damask.) To avoid the crease problem with a Model 85 Ironrite like I have, you can do some fancy manipulations and turn the tablecloth for every pass and start ironing in the center. The catch here is that very long and wide cloths are still complex to do and you need a helper and a clean drop cloth underneath to avoid soiling it when doing so many passes. If you do a lot of tablecloths, making yourself an ironing table is by far the easiest and fastest way to go. The best thing about the ironing table I described above is that between ironing days you can stow it against the wall of a closet. (Let it cool completely and dry thoroughly, of course, before putting away.) As long as the table is not wider than you can easily reach across you can iron 27-32" at a time. Your 54" wide cloths would require only 4 adjustments; the wider ones would require three, but you'd have to turn it go back the other way because it is so wide. (Though you could certainly make yourself a table that was 90" long.) Still it would be very much faster than using even the widest snout-ended type of ironing board. Where the Ironrite excells is on smaller flats like pillow cases, linen dish towels and cloth napkins. I can whip through those as fast as I can feed them under the mangle, meaning about 10-15 secs each for napkins and about 30 secs for pillow cases. HTH, Molly