You are going to want more than 32" for the toilet. 36" is standard (and perhaps even code in some areas???? Not here in Maine but I heard people saying that on other forums...) We have 34" and it feels fine but I dont think I'd want to go much tighter. You could solve that simply by flipping the closet and shower. So, have your shower -rotated 90 degrees and witha glass end wall- at the end of the tub (which is a nice setup you can see in many bathrooms, the tub deck can actually protrude under the shower glass wall and be a ledge or seat in the shower). Then the passageway moves to the left, and you can steal a bit of space from the other closet for the toilet. Either that of have a shorter vanity. 48" isn't a size I'd fight for. It's too short for a double vanity, really (unless you're using one of the new two-faucet 'trough" styles) so why not go down to 42" and have a better toilet area? For resale, though, you should consider a double vanity. Some people I guess expert truly huge ones, like at least 5+' long. But you CAN get smaller ones, Ikea has some great ones for tight spaces. But if you're not selling anytime soon, do what YOU like!! (But I still think you'll want more toilet space...)

My question to you is: how much do you like your knees? Love this little conundrum. Reminds me of so many awkward little bathrooms that were made at the turn of the century or earlier, Now I'm not a designer or anything and this is with MS Paint (10 pixels = 1 inch so it should be vaguely to scale I hope) so take this with a grain of salt but: I did move your window but if you don't want to move it you can just flip the position of the toilet/sink (though I believe Door 1 is the kitchen door so I left the toilet closer to the wall bc then it'll be kinda out of view if the door is slightly closed I hope?). Not sure if this would work bc I don't have the dimensions from wall to door trim on Door 2 and I'm assuming its the same size as Door 1 this one moved the window again but kept the same layout you have now. I just sized the fixtures to fit the room; same toilet but adding a shorter than average 30" x 54" 2-sided tub (you could probably get away with 60" length though) and a smaller 18" x 30" sink (and I'd suggest going even smaller with the sink tbh, shallow sinks might help in this bathroom) I went a bit crazy for number 3, no structural changes but a lot of plumbing moves! In this one I would suggest a corner sink if thats still a thing or a shallow sink if you're open to it, they're great space savers! The layout you have now is probably the most efficient one you could have in there with the location of doors and size of the room, unfortunately. My ideas at most have about 19" of walking space between the tightest fixtures granted thats all hip height and below obstructions so it might feel more spacious when walking. I've found with the tiniest bathrooms over the years that vertical obstruction height is the real killer since your arms typically take up a lot more space than your feet! Honestly I'm not sure if this is your main/only bathroom (I think so since you want a tub in a space you know is too small for one) and I'm not sure what things you'd prioritize over others (storage, view, movement, basement access, etc.) or if the non-door/window wall can be bumped out a bit, even partially (I assume not since bumping out that wall is an obvious way to get everything you want) Also on the point of barn/pocket doors: do NOT do it unless you have the money to spring for a top tier one and even then I wouldn't suggest it. Yes, they are space savers but honestly they come with a host of issues (getting stuck (pocket), coming off the track (pocket & barn), cleanliness (pocket), etc) and even then they wouldn't address the issues you have with this bathroom What you really need is to close off or move those doors, even moving the full bathroom to a different room entirely, which unfortunately is not possible. Changing the opening style won't give you more room to put the fixtures you want in there unless you want to crawl/shimmy/sidestep past your toilet/sink which I don't think would be up to code! If after all my rambling you're not into that might I suggest taking a gander at the old Sears (and equivalent) home plan catalogues? They have so many tiny and rather confusingly laid out bathrooms like yours so you might have a moment of inspiration! http://www.searsarchives.com/homes/1908-1914.htm (granted some plans don't show the layout of bathroom fixtures but there are some that do like The Chelsea)

You can make it as big as you want with that layout. It will feel more odd not to have the whole wall done. mine is a little longer and they left an empty corner which is just a waste of space. If you can move the door over, you can also do a storage cabinet or built in behind the door.

From the drawings, it is unclear whether any of these options can meet code. The minimum clearance in front of a toilet, tub or vanity is 24 inches. A toilet requires 15-inch clear space from the centerline on both sides. The entry door to a room cannot interfere with a shower door, cabinet door, or drawer. It cannot interfere with a person using any bathroom fixture or appliance. The minimum space for a shower opening is 22 inches.