Questions re: raised bed soil + composting/fertilizing
Angelina Zarre
9 years ago
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soil for new raised beds, is all compost OK?
Comments (11)I guess I'm the lazy gardener. We have thick sod at our place. Last weekend I started two new beds using the lasagna method. This is how I've started all my beds. First, a thick layer of newspapers and then layers of grass clippings, kitchen scraps, dead plant material (i.e. old bean plants but not tomato plants that may be diseased), chopped leaves from the lawnmower bag, and a heavy sprinkle of wood ashes, and some aged manure. You're supposed to alternate greens and browns. This pile will sink a lot by spring. In the spring, a layer of aged and composted horse manure (mixed with bedding, kitchen scraps, etc) is added to all the beds. Right now, the two beds are about 24 inches tall. Sometimes the used soil/dead plants from pots gets added. I built my first bed in 2007, planted it in 2008. I've been very happy with this system since we have plenty of the ingredients. I get the composted horse manure from a Craigslist find. Perhaps I add enough soil, wood ashes and manure to get a good mix. (We heat with wood.) I started the first bed with old grass clippings from a neighbor and kept adding different material as it became available....See MoreRaised bed soil, compost question
Comments (30)Crystalshoe- Hydrology, not the size of the bed or container, determines whether you're growing in a raised bed (RB) or a container, and by extension, what type of soil you can/should use. A planting of daisies in a plastic or clay pot resting on your deck or patio is a container planting. Bury that pot an inch or two into the ground so there is continuity between the medium in the pot and the soil the pot is partially buried in, and it becomes a RB - no matter what size the pot is. The difference is, the earth will act as a giant wick, and remove water that would normally perch in a conventional container planting, but water movement within the partially buried container would closely mimic water movement in the earth or in the soil below. There is a caveat, however. The area where the pot is buried or partially buried would need to drain properly for things to work. If you were to bury the pot in clay soil that allowed essentially no percolation, the pot would simply fill up with water at every rainfall or irrigating. If you're building a RB over a clay soil that drains poorly - don't amend the clay unless you can drain the area. If you do, water will percolate or run into the area you amended, leaving it saturated for extended periods (the bathtub effect). You can remedy this problem if you are able to cut trenches or use a French drain cut into the clay to drain excess water to a lower area away from where you're growing. Not amending the clay below your beds also allows any excess water in the RB soil to move laterally over the surface of the clay where it can evaporate. If you amend, the water won't move laterally until the amended depression is entirely saturated with water. No matter how you look at it, you're eventually going to have problems with a RB over clay unless you can figure a way to use gravity or a pump to move water from the area. As soil life moves through the clay and increases the OM content of the clay below the RBs, that soil will become more porous than the surrounding clay. The pores will quickly fill with water when it rains or when you irrigate unless you have a plan to remove the water. The end game is, the water that collects below your RBs has to have a place to go. It has to drain naturally in a reasonable time, or be directed downhill or to a sump where it can be mechanically removed. Amending the soil beneath RBs just forces you to face the brunt of the problem sooner (in heavy clay soils). BTW - you don't need to use a highly aerated soil like that you referred to in your OP in RBs. In fact, the highly aerated soils that perform so well in containers are probably not a particularly good choice for RBs because they have a steep water retention curve that will have you watering more than you'd prefer. Keep in mind that the time you spend now, properly preparing, will save a lot of time and frustration later. How many beds? Size/depth? Budget constraints high, low, medium? Ready access to materials you think might work? Al...See MoreRaised beds and compost - newby question
Comments (8)Maybe, possibly there was a need to double dig those areas and there are many garden writters that do champion that, but I also think those people are masochists. As others have stated do not be overly concerend with what you have only with what you are going to do about that. Start by adding a lot of organic matter, and it might be that you would need to use peat moss (shudder) because that might be what is most plentiful and easiest for you to get. Save the sawdust to use as mulch, because it you mix that into the soil you will have problems with Nitrogen deficiency, otherwise add what you have and get more. These simple soil tests will help you determine when you have almost enough organic matter in your soil; 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy....See MoreNew soil/compost in raised beds keeps going dry
Comments (16)"how many minutes would you estimate I should water?" That's the thing right there. You really need a system in place where you can adjust timing and emitter size to give the results you need, and you determine that by trial and error, and that too varies by rainfall and plant size. I have a dead dry environment with no appreciable ground moisture and use two drip loops, the red one and the gray one, called so by the two cans of spray paint I happened to have on hand at the time. Each runs from a controlled sprinkler valve/vac breaker via 1/2" pvc tubing, and they run together everywhere. One loop is long duration and long interval, and one is short. There are cheap three dollar plastic ball valves at each bed to cut off the whole bed from the system. Each bed has a 12 inch threaded pipe coming up out of the ground and capped with a multi-barbed manifold head for 1/4" tubing. if a plant needs more water, I pop off the emitter and replace it with one with faster flow. The few things in a row like trellised peas and cukes get a long imbedded emitter drip line, but mostly it's just manifold heads with quarter inch lines snaking everywhere, so it's designed for specimen plants like toms, peppers, and squash, not bedding plants like carrots or garlic. If I had such bedding plants I'd just replace a tubing head on the short duration line with a shrub sprayer head. It's all dead simple and the whole thing probably cost $250 US. That's parts prices. 200 feet of tubing costs roughly $70 all by itself. It can be buried either in the beds or in the paths with spurs to the beds. Anywhere. I have no winter freezes so there was no reason to put a drain on the low spot. Two things. One is I have to do something like this to manage water because of the climate, but can still drag out a hose for touchups. Two, you still have to watch for clogged emitters. Three, it's easy but not mindless....See MoreAngelina Zarre
9 years agoNil13 usda:10a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.)
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