OK, it sounds like some kind of company that prototypes and advertises your ideas. Whether it's worth that is up to you. Without knowing what the product actually is, it's hard to give any advice on whether it would make money. Is it a gadget or a kit of already available hardware? How much could you sell it for? What's the potential market? Is there competition? What's the business plan? All things I don't know very much about, but I suspect they are required in order to evaluate your invention.

Again, thank you everyone for all the prayers and positive thoughts. Yesterday we spent the day salvaging as much as possible. Lots of photos, my mom seems to have a gazillion, and we're not throwing out any. All the furniture has been trashed as well as the carpeting. We'll try and save the washer and dryer but the other appliances are all gone. The beds, couches, tv's, small kitchen appliances, just too much to remember everything although we are trying to keep inventory. Today was spent pulling out the last of the carpets, sweeping mud out of all the rooms, washing most of the stuff in the kitchen and doing a million loads of laundry at the laundromat. We've got some contractors in who will work through the night to pull out dry wall up to a foot above the water line which was at about 4 feet. They'll be removing all the insulation from the walls as well. Cleanup has been reasonable easy because we were lucky enough to have a lot of help from the local South African and Jewish communities as well as from total strangers. I can't thank enough the people who are helping total strangers, the 10 yr old who gave lunch (an apple, bag of chips, sandwich and homemade cookie) to anyone who wanted one and she had about 100 sandwiches she'd made, the adults who walked up to you and asked what they could do to help or the elderly couple handing out ice water from their grandchild's wagon. My mom's car has been officially written off and it's covered by insurance which is a good thing because almost no-one here, including my family, has flood insurance. FEMA is coming in tomorrow to do an assessment. Laurie, thanks for the links. Thanks to all of you I think we got in early on that one. We're staying with friends n Horseshoe bend which is upriver a bit. Here's a link to see the floods both in Horseshoe bend and River Plantation: http://www.newschannel5.com/Global/category.asp?C=125220&clipId=4751432&flvUri=&partnerclipid=&topVideoCatNo=0amp;autoStart=true&activePane=info&LaunchPageAdTag=homepage&clipFormat=flv When you see River Plantation, look how high the water came up, almost to the carport roofs. The lower houses in Horseshoe bend were almost half way up the first floor. There are dumpsters everywhere in HSB and driving down Sawyer Brown Rd is like driving between two trash levees 10 ft high and 15 feet wide all made of trash...furniture, lumber, carpets, dry wall, insulation, toys, clothing. It is the saddest thing I have ever seen. These are my pictures: http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r26/LaniKaye221/Nashville%20floods/ Please continue to pray.

So you have the Broan 6" MD6T and you have it unfiltered, unconditioned, and ouputting under the fridge for conditioning purposes? So you are relying on the exhaust heat of the fridge to cool the incoming air? How cold did it get this past winter for you? How cold was that make up air? Detectable at all? Here we had -20 real feel in NY with the wind chill at times. It was brutally cold and cold often. I think I might have to put in a heated MUA. So update on Broan. The lady I spoke to today was completely useless. To make a long story short she had absolutely no idea how to use the Make Up Air Specifier on her site. It was quite pathetic and my impressions of Broan's customer service = suck. I spoke to Dean at Electro Industries at length about all the factors I'm thinking about. We went over two options - one using the MA-10 (10kw all in one 10" heater with damper, blower, filter, and current detector to control blower speed) and the less expensive heater unit EM-WX1025R. The broan MD6T comes with a 24volt 20VA transformer so I could then use the one signal to turn on both the Broan damper and the heater unit. Both options unit can accomodate up to 637cfm in a 50 degree temperature rise. It's a 10kW unit though and would require a 50A or 60A two pole (240V) breaker and its own dedicated lines (of course). I can take care of the electrical so no problem there but man I'm guessing my heating bill (which was astronimical last year) will be more than I can tolerate this year. Temperature Rise Needed/CFM EM-WX1025R 10000 Watts 80/395 70/452 60/527 50/632 40/790 30/1054 MA-10 $1917 + freight EM-WX1025R $800 + freight. I think that should be sufficient - it's better to have 50 degree air coming in than 0 degree air. I'm thinking that maybe I can get away with non-heated air if I can get fresh air to come up that old supply register near the range. The opening is closer than the fireplace but it might work if I put a blower in-line as well.

Not much you can do to prevent a leak in the indoor coil except reduce the amount of corrosives in the home. A lot of fumes from cleaners such as chlorox and ammonia may lead to premature corrosion on coils. I noticed years ago that the use of hair sprays and such during the winter would seem to accelerate rusting of the heat exchangers in some homes with standing pilot furnaces. Using chlorox in some drains is a no-no and will cause rapid rusting/corrosion. Vinegar is milder and less damaging in my opinion. Never add any acidic chemical directly into the pan of the coil. There's quite a list of things checked during a "tuneup", which is an unusual name for it. A lot of the checking is visual- looking for signs of corroded connections, burnt or wires getting overheated, mold in the plenum or duct (system not cooling properly), insulation on the refrigerant lines and drains, rusted pans, leaky ducts, vent pipes clear and installed correctly, drain is clean and clear, blowers and coils (and it's pan) clean, the outdoor coil (condensor) clean, motors oiled, freon psi normal per the proper charging method for that system, air split within range, thermostat accurate, return sealed, electrical breakers and wires the proper size and aren't running too warm, no buildup of leaves in the outdoor unit, no distributor tubes touching which can rub together and cause a future leak or wires rubbing and getting ready to wear thru and cause a short. A quick inspection of the ducting, mainly at the plenum is a good idea. If molds are present at the plenum, it is usually a sign that the system is not operating properly (low on freon, low air split ect.) and throwing off moisture instead of removing it. If this persists, mold will develope throughout the ducting and all the way to the registers. The house will feel damp or warm even at comfort temperatures of 75-77 degrees. A check of the humidity and wet bulb temps if the system has been operating normally helps evaluate possible problems. There's actually more and this seems like a whole day project, but actually an experienced tech does these visual inspections in a short time. Once any corrections are made (if any) the same tech should be the one to come back every year, as he knows your system. I wash every outdoor coil, regardless if it looks clean or not, because I have been suprised before from the ones that look clean but are not. Of course all of the controls should be checked, and any visual signs of oil on the freon lines or fittings checked to see if there is a leak and repaired. The proccesses for checking heat pumps, cooling only and gas furnaces are a little different, but at the same time similar. If you have a gas furnace, I always give it a quick look for anything that is unsafe with it or anything applicable to it's proper and safe operation and advise the customer of any corrections needed or to have it looked at before winter use. Some people think they don't get their monies worth when the tech isn't there for a long time, but a well installed and maintained system doesn't take as long to check over as compared to a system that has been neglected or installed poorly. Prices are quite different in all areas and range from $50.00 to as much as $170.00. It's best to stay away (in my experience) from the $19.95 specials- no company can survive with that price and must sell something to make up the difference. Phew! I feel like I just wrote a book! :)