I would not even consider suing the lawyer. I think he means well. He just came across as very degrading and even mentioned that I should use the "extra" money that I'm spending on my house for my children's education!! He has no idea what we are doing for my children's education. I add this just to demonstrate the way he is discussing this with me. I think that I'm going to insist on a different lawyer from the firm. I really liked the other person I had worked with there. Thank you for the advice. We do own the land but the builder worked with us to draw up the plans. We can leave and take them with us but there is a charge for them in that case. I'm just not sure at this point if we have time to get other bids. I'm not sure how that works. I do believe that he builds a far better then average quality house, that is why we chose him. perhaps I can get an estimator like renovator8 advises and ask for the OH&P (what is that?) I'm guessing overhead and something? I really appreciate all of your thoughts on this. thanks. oh and it is about 700K for 4000 sq. ft. in the northeast.

You should have been budgeting for a complete pipe replacement for 3 years now. This guy was exceptionally honest with you. The guys you used for 3 years are the ones that didn't tell you the truth. Any time a pipe has roots growing in it, it's broken. Roots cannot get into modern PVC plumbing pipes without a hole. Old terra cotta pipes, sure. But those should also have been budgeted for replacement if that were the case. Investigate a home loan if you have to, but start thinking major plumbing project here. You want to have him take a look at a lot of things when this is done. Like your main supply. If you have a hole dig, it's smart to replace everything that you can at one time.

The side "steps" and the landings below are not used as the metal railing prevents access. I would place large concrete containers on these landings. Your winter lows may be close to zero, so you want a material that can withstand freezing and provide some insulation for the roots of whatever plants you place in them. First, choose the largest diameter pots you can afford. The extra mass of potting soil helps to insulate against the cold. Second, make sure to keep potted plants well watered before an expected freeze as cold wind can cause dehydration damage. Then, look for durable pots that can't freeze and crack or spall. Resin pots are probably the best choice for the budget though some are less durable than others. Fully glazed pots are a good choice, especially those fired at higher temperatures. Concrete pots are both thick and durable, but are also likely to be expensive, especially for large sizes. Wood containers insulate the soil well, but I haven't had them last more than two years, so I don't consider them durable. They are reasonably priced, so you might give them a try. Finally, soil in a pot is going to get colder than the soil in a bed. Always choose a plant that is hardy to 2 zones colder than yours. Your winter hardiness zone is likely 6 or 7, so you should choose zone 4 or 5 plants for planting in pots. My northwest facing entry gets some afternoon sun, so it's a part sun spot. Your situation may be similar, even the shadier spot. I recommend you choose evergreen shrubs as focal points for either side of your entry. Dwarf conifers or broad-leaf evergreens can have upright, globe, or arching and weeping forms. While they are small fill in around them with a hardy ground cover or seasonal annuals. Add more pots with hardy perennials to fill in around the main pot. Note that plantings are better started in the spring so their roots have time to settle in before harsh winter weather. Below is a simple formal arrangement of planted pots.

Oh yes. These are permanent stains. The paint is 2k paint that uses a hardener, so I was surprised, and wondered if anyone else has encountered this.