sorry i misunderstood sounded like you were planning a 30 foot lift every cycle. the type of buildings will have a good deal of influence on practicality. mexico is mostly concrete structures. USA is mostly tin over bar joists styrene and rubber over that. Have you priced renting bare ground? Not trying to be real negative but i can't imagine anyplace but downtown tokyo having valuble enough land to justify the added expenses of making a rooftop available for that type use. You may get universities or other experimental type buildings to give it a go when the project has no need for financial viability.just for referance in my locale a 20x20space in an office building will probably start at 3-4oo a month. A year of rent will buy you a bare acre suburban lot with electric available. i would expect the building manager to want at least that and likely much more to grant use and access to his roof top. If you do find a building that will allow you to experiment what will you grow and have you developed a market already? when you present a new idea it is always better if you can show at least some production and sale history to help sell the idea. Also if you have spent time on roofs you already know light heat and wind can be more intensified on rooftops than on the ground. Some roofs such as theaters or clubs get bottles thrown on them a lot. It is not that Iit is not a good idea or use of space but i just don't think land values are any where near high enough yet to make it financialy viable. Another concern is that even in areas of higher land values building values also tend to be rather high so it may still cost too much. when you search for possible places to place you may want to be prepared to show how many years experience you have producing and selling what plants as well as know exactly how much per square foot or unit it is going to cost to install and produce one season. will you be planning on daily tending several times or will you use expensive sophisticated equipment that regulates its own temp and ventilation? when you harvest and clean up how will you get up and down through the typical ladder and roof hatch? drop the produce by rope and bucket? I have been on a lot of rooftops servicing ac units and most of thm you either lean up a ladder or climb a permanet ladder through a hatch we use ropes and buckets to get our material tools and parts up and down seems rather awkward to handle any plant matter that way. Anything that weighs over 100 lbs or so such as a new unit we call a crane for. Most roof hatches are 2ft x 2ft aprox so will your materials fit. If you drag them up over the side you have to make sure you don't skin up the walls or break anything. Have you ever been on rooftops? some you have to walk only on the rows of screws and some you have to be careful not to step on air bubbles. Some have rubber mats layed out you have to stay on. some are slick when cold and you have to make sure you don't slide off and fall. some buildings like factories are so concerned with liability they require fall protection(harness and lanyard) to be on their roof even a flat roof with 3 ft parapet wall all around. I have never been on a rooftop the owner or manager was not extremely concerned over roof damge. Roof repair is quite costly as is roof damage and rain leak damage. In usa i would say your only chance would be some type of experimental or plant related type building a botanical gardens buiding a university a science center something like that and it will not be financialy viable but done as an exhibit.

Karen : I could only DREAM of doing Pergo "wood" in my house. Far to many paws come and go for it to survive very long. Earlier this year when we decided to do the kitchen, I found the really nice hardwood look linoleum at that big orange box store and loved it. It's tape down so simple to put down and no fumes from the glue. It looks fabulous and can withstand the amount of traffic we have here. I wanted to do tile through the house but that's just to cold for my liking in the winter so for all intentive and obvious purposes , linoleum wood it is in a light oak pattern and big area rugs. I of course know it's not the prefered or "trendy" thing, but we'll likely be here until we pass on so onward and forward. As to the other,I've found fostering is HARD but on the same hand, one of the most rewarding things. Don't kid yourself, I've failed (twice...lol) , but that doesn't represent the 5 (including an abandoned litter of 3 puppies , now that was tough to let go but I did) I've sent on their way to new homes with a different agency than I'm working with now. By next week I will have 6 here (4 are ours- YES, we failed and are formally adopting MICKEY because Hubs fell for him hook line and sinker..lol) so the house will be full of snoring energy and chaos but it's worth it all. Aside from fosters, we've had the neighbors boy, my Milos sister , my Remis brother & their parents, a friends 2 plus a coworkers 4 here as visitors so experience comes in paw loads [along with the fuurrrr , oh the fur!]. Ones like the next 2 are easiest for me because I CANNNOT fail, they are already lined up for homes in another state but have to be out of the shelter for 4-6 weeks before transport to prevent spreading kennel cough and the like with others on the same transport route.

I never heard the term "turkey claw foot"...but it is not the hairy paw or claw and ball or pad foot or any of the other more usual claw type foot tables. It's very nice round oak table, likely dating to the early part of the 20th century...but missing the leaves. Probably opens up large enopugh to feet a regiment with the leaves. Quarter sawn oak...looks to have been refinished. Linda C

Ventilation is a serious problem. IPE will rot and warp if moisture trapped underneath. Requires adequate airflow to prevent condensation build up. While IPE is otherwise as close to indestructible as any wood can be, it is vulnerable to moisture and is specifically not rated for ground contact for this reason. If you use it on a rooftop deck, you should make sure there is airflow underneath. This may require vents on the house side and opening on the outside end of the deck with support rafters running outward (so air can flow under the boards.) I would also use as wide a board spacing as practical. Use of 5/4 board thickness would would slightly decrease the odds of warp/cupping and allow wider rafter spacing for better airflow. Most important issue is whether you can raise the deck sufficiently to allow adequate airflow underneath. If not, IPE not a good idea. (I do not know about Massaranduba)