I'm the same. I prefer to not nail sideways through a flange due to the possibility of the flange delaminating. Here's what I've done in the past. Approved by the manufacturer: Cut a length of 2x4 blocking long enough to go web-to-web across the joist bay. I run a bead of PL then install the blocking and nail it off. I fasten through the web and into the end grain of the blocking. Two fasteners per end. For a 2x4 partition wall I'll then run a 2x6 in the direction of the partition wall, centered on the centerline of the future partition wall. With the 2x4 being the same thickness as the joist flanges, it'll act as a filler, and by it protruding an inch past each edge of the top plate of the soon to be installed partition wall, it'll act as a backer to support the floating edge of the ceiling drywall.

We are finishing out the 2nd floor of a 2-story garage built in 2006. It measures 20'x30' with 20' 2x12 ceiling joists placed 16" on center that span 20' under the second floor, and 20' 2x8 ceiling joists placed 16" on center under the attic plywood floor. There are no interior walls upstairs, so essentially like a barn --> purlin hangers are probably inappropriate in the attic as there is no internal wall support for the 2x8 ceiling joists that the hangers would rest on. The long 20' ceiling joists under the attic floor need to be vertically stabilized (they are covered with nailed-on plywood so they are stable horizontally although may twist) as they bounce and vibrate if you jump up and down in the attic. To date, we passed city structural inspection, but none of the above is on the radar of inspector -- so I am trying to deal with it via my contractor. The solution I propose is as follows:1) Drop vertical 2x4's from the rafters (spaced every three ceiling joists = 48" max) 2) Ensure two 2x4's are used per selected joist and place them 5' from the ends of the ceiling joists (rafter nail-in will occur vertically above the tie-in to the ceiling joist) 3) nail the dropped 2x4 into the ceiling joists -- only to dampen vibrations. The structure was built in 2006, so there has been plenty of time for the wood to settle. Using the above approach, I would be locking in the long ceiling joists from vibrating so much and wouldn't (I think) be placing any additional stress on the rafters or the ceiling joists. Essentially, this would be like locking the current vertical locations of the ceiling joists via the rafters -- only to minimize the flexing when in the attic. So in a way, it's almost cosmetic -- without stress, it wouldn't be purlin bracing, but locks of the ceiling joists from flexing. How does this sound for a solution?

I would use that area for storage only. Breathing insulation fibers is not healthy. There is to much duct work, electrical wires, slopes, etc. to make it habitable. You will also end up compressing the insulation, losing its R Value and putting pressure on the ceiling below. You do have a great insulation job up there and a nice storage area now.

To the OP or anyone else thinking of hanging any kind of chair or swing or bench using eyebolts: don’t. That is an accident waiting to happen. The only safe and proper way to attach something like that is with bolts going through the structural member that are secured by washers and nuts. Or by a specialty bracket sold for that purpose. And that is after the determination is made that the structural member can support the load without being compromised.