You should definitely be pricing with just heat pump. I live in NC which probably is a bit colder in the winter. We get down to the teens but only 15 nights a year maybe. Our winter average low is about 30. Under 10 degrees is definitely a news story. I have 5000 sq ft. I'm looking at my NG bill of $30. I have dual fuel and seer 16 heat pumps. Last winter was very cold and I spent about $700 with $200 being gas. This winter is going to be $120 in gas. My electric rates are similar to yours without the first 1000 discount. What is my point? Your gas usage will likely be $100 a year. Even if that were replaced with all heating strips, you'd be saving $200 a year or so. Since it would probable be 80% heat pump still, the dual fuel is only saving you $40 a year. So a $2500 furnace to save $40 a year seems a little crazy (on dollars alone). Turns out for me, it is probably worth it but only marginally so. I have a 90% (which you should be able to do as mine is basement with horizontal PVC exhaust). It probably saves $60-$70 on an average year. Probably cost $2000 (new house - I can't remember). What is that a 30 year payback (or never if you count interest or NG rates increase)? You do get some flexibility and you can setback at will with dual fuel. That is worth something.

Based on the information you've provided, sounds like the York quote is the best option, but I don't agree with the 80% modulating furnace. That's a high-end furnace, and going with the 80% version doesn't make sense to me, especially in our region where it can get cold at times (I'm in Maryland). Is PVC venting an issue? The York Affinity is a nice line of equipment. American Standard isn't bad, either, but the equipment that the York rep. is quoting is better in my opinion. 3 tons is a bit much for your cooling load, but it's what you'd have to go with if you went with the Affinity line. The 2.5-ton Latitude unit would be the better fit. With the low stage on the Affinity approximately meeting the cooling load at design conditions (which won't be met on all days), I don't think you'll be getting those long run times that you should with a 2-stage system. Ask the York rep. if he can quote the CZB or YZB 2.5-ton single-stage Affinity unit with a 90+ efficient v/s furnace (modulating or 2-stage). Not sure where the American Standard rep. came up with his sizing. Do you like it cold in your house (68-70)? Did the York rep. do the load calculation?

I don't see why you couldn't pump condensate all the way to the laundry sink. Our 87% boiler is a condensing type. The boiler has a condensate drain coming out of the bottom of the flue. This drain is routed to a condensate pump which hoists the water up and over my water heater, then gradually down to the washing machine drain. The boiler has been producing hot water of around 120°F lately (around 32°F outdoors). This low temperature means a lot of condensate from the flue, so the pump has been busy. I never hear the pump run, though. As far as vent noises go, I would DEFINITELY have the air intake plumbed to the outdoors if I could do my install all over again. The air intake makes a considerable "whoosh" noise while it's running. (Of course, drawing air into the house.) The blower fan does have a slight vibration that I can hear in my kitchen, which is just on the opposite side of the wall from the boiler. In the case of a boiler, I can connect an indirect-fired domestic water heater that the boiler services. This means one unit does two jobs by effectively making an additional zone. I don't know if this can be done economically with forced air heat. I can't hear any noise from my boiler when I'm outside. Then again, I don't have it vented through the wall.

I will need a math expert to sort out my hydro electric bill. From Dec. 9, 2015 BC Hydro is being almost totally used to supply heat to a rather old house, plus all the other perks we all get using clean hydro power. Little wood is being used, saving it for power outages. This winter has been mild. The first 33 days on hydro was total $370. Next 33 days was total $572. The former home gas heat was from a 1994 (96 plus) high efficiency natural gas furnace. So an expert would need to summarize how much hydro power was needed to blow natural gas heat from a Direct Vent Forced Air Furnace, and what hydro power was consumed to supply the rest of my standard electrical needs. You have to be math- kW h -smart to know hydro consumption, or you need to be smart to understand the Smart Meters. Remember, too, this HEF was directly polluting my private lagoon with created acidic water with a pH lower than 5. The Mallard ducks had stopped nesting in the lagoon. When HEFs at 98 efficiency rate were planned to be the wave of the future how are they adding to acidic water problems when no municipality requires them to have a neutralizer on them before discharging anywhere? Year 2016: If I never return to unclean HEF natural gas heat which are being "allowed to dump acidic water anywhere", and go to Solar panel heat, sunny most days, will I be saving? Will there be a Brownie-Badge for saving the environment, too? And will I get a rebate for any unused hydro if the solar system is not battery operated but is better tied into a Hydro grid? Solar Power is where the future should be. Any grant money should be applied for us all to install Solar panels tied into the hydro grids. Imagine every home in the USA and Canada installing Solar panels, under incentive Grants and giving credit back to the homes for unused power. That is Smart living.