Grafting Onto (Mostly) Invasive Field Stock
terrycalhoun
9 years ago
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cwlucking
9 years agoRelated Discussions
best time for grafting in the field?
Comments (3)Cuzn. I looked up the pdf you mentioned. Not how I do my bark grafts, but there are probably as many variations of a given grafting technique as there are grafters. Konrad, who's a frequent poster here, does his a little differently, as well - but it's a graft that takes quite nicely, and it's easy to do. My technique: Behead the rootstock with your pruners. Make a single vertical slit in the rootstock bark. Make a long, sloping cut in the base of your scion - just as you would for a simple whip graft. Now, shave some bark off the two 'long' sides, to expose some cambium tissue on the lateral edges. Gently 'lift' the edges of the slit in the rootstock bark and slide the scion down into the slit, until the cambium at the 'top' of your sloping basal cut is just above the level of the beheaded top of the rootstock. I wrap the union and scion with parafilm, then overwrap with rubber band - or sometimes, just with a couple layers of masking tape, if it's something that will callus in rapidly, like pears. For nut trees, I do a 'sap-stopper' modification of the graft above - instead of completely beheading the rootstock, I just cut 3/4-7/8 of the way through the stock and break the top over, leaving it attached, to serve as a sap-drawer/pressure relief valve, as nut trees often tend to bleed excessively. After the scion calluses in and growth commences, you can come back and snip off the still-attached top of the rootstock. Osborn's technique, as outlined in the pdf, may actually be a sturdier graft, less prone to 'blow-out/break-out' than mine - might try a few that way this year. I have done simple whip grafts on persimmon, with 100% success rate, before someone told me that persimmons are hard to graft. (They're NOT. But, aftercare, for at least the first growing season, IS.) Here is a link that might be useful: Grafting persimmons....See MoreWhy graft roses onto rootsock?
Comments (5)Right now it's mostly done to give commercial growers more crops sooner resulting in more income. If you can get three crops in six years from a plot of land as against two crops, which would you prefer? Another reason for grafting (budding) is you get more bushes from a cane from budding that you'd get from the same cane from cuttings. At the base of each leaf is a small bud. Each bud can be a new rose bush when budded onto a root stock. A healthy cane containing 12 leaves (a leaf is composed of 3 to 7 or more leaflets) can produce 12 rose bushes while the cane, divided into cuttings will produce three if all take. A cutting takes three years to produce a bush the size of a two year old grafted plant. The easily rooted rootstock cuttings are placed in the field as soon as a mature crop of rosebushes is harvested in the fall/early winter. By spring these are rooted and the buds harvested from the canes of mother bushes are budded (grafted) onto them. They are allowed to grow for a year, then harvested and sold. Budded rose bushes, otherwise known as bare root roses, can be easily stored in refrigerated warehouses for 6 months and can be inexpensively shipped to home gardeners or commercial growers for resale as blooming potted roses. They'll produce a full sized blooming rosebush the first season. Cuttings can take from 4 to 12 weeks to root. Once rooted they must be moved to a larger pot which makes them more labor intensive. Sold as newly rooted cuttings,(bands), they can take two or more years in the garden to reach the size of a budded rose. If raised to near full size, shipping costs can be more than the bush as they're usually shipped in the pot. Dirt costs a lot to ship. One cane = 12 bushes vs one cane = 3 bushes. Easy storage and shipping vs costly shipping and no storage. Which would you choose? Growing potted plants must be sold soon or they lose their flowers and must be stored until thy rebloom. Most home gardeners buy the flower, not the variety like rose enthusiasts do. It boils down to economics with grafted roses for the big growers or ease of starting just a few roses from cuttings for the home gardener. For us at home, it's not the money. We can babysit and wait for a plant to grow. This is an over simplified explanation as there is more involved with either method, but I think you get the idea?...See MoreAmending soil on roses grafted onto R. multiflora?
Comments (10)I only have 5 grafted roses i bought and planted in the heat of summer after i removed 2 large juniper bushes. I have about 275 or so own-roots. The grafted ones were potted and on sale at a local nursery. I just plop them into the ground and they have done well despite the heat of summer and i did water occasionally. I have even got bare root own root roses this spring and i just planted in the native soil. The only mounding i have done is in some raised beds i made this summer, because i am on flat land that has some low spots where the water stands for a while in the spring rainy season because the water has nowhere to go. Roses cannot tolerate standing water and will drown in about a week. Roses love water but they also need good drainage. I know they always say to mound the soil around bareroot grafted roses when you plant them, but i think that is because they water the heck out of them after they plant them. I don't think it is necessary to mound them unless you have drainage problems....See MoreField grafting
Comments (12)Jarpe, Barbara: The field grafts my friend has done haven't been in large enough numbers to have a reliable system established. He has a lot of shade in some areas of his yard. Personally, I would use white plastic to reduce heat build up. The two grafts with clear bags that I looked at the day I took pictures looked fine, but we haven't had too many sunny days this spring. I think that gradually opening the bottom of the bags to slowly decrease humidity is a good plan. As far as I know, he has only had success with five needle pines. He has tried on spruce several times without success yet. He tried fir as well (1 or 2 grafts) He grafts in late winter/early spring If I were going to experiment, I would try to harvest scion a couple of weeks before anticipated bud break on the rootstock and then graft as buds were beginning to expand on the rootstock. Sluice: I agree the SP growth is fantastic. It took us a while to figure out what we had on there because the tag was gone, but then I remembered what we'd done. Unpro: wish I could give you more info. I think the typical grafting methods are probably superior. Unless you are looking to modify something already in the ground this is not the preferred method. I did review a couple of Youtube videos with demonstrations of top grafts of pines. One is linked below. Keith Here is a link that might be useful: Field grafting loblolly pine...See Morecousinfloyd
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