Any fruit tree that can draft onto a mulberry root?
deserthawk
9 years ago
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fabaceae_native
9 years agodeserthawk
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Where can I find bareroot mulberry trees for south-central OK?
Comments (4)Hi Charles, Well, OIKOS has them and their quality is great. I imagine that Stark Brothers does too, or if you don't mind shopping online, places like One Green World and Dave Wilson Nursery would have them. Congrats on purchasing the land near Caney! I love Fort Worth. I was born there and lived there for the first 39 years of my life, but when we moved here to Love County, deep in my soul I finally felt like I had "come home". I cannot explain it, other than to reason that Fort Worth simply got too big and too crowded and too full of people for me. Before Tim and I got married in the early 1980s, I made him promise me he'd never ask me to leave Texas. Then, by the mid- to late1990s, I was the one who wanted to move away from Texas. (Though, obviously, we didn't move far since we still have Texas to our west, south and east.) Now when we go there to visit family, even though I love my family, I can't wait to head back home to Oklahoma. The relentless building of more, more, more houses, strip malls, shopping centers, etc., just drives me crazy. I cannot believe how much of the metro area has turned from rural and semi-rural to full-blown city areas in just the last 10-20 years. It is so hard to see areas that once were lovely rolling countryside filled with grasslands and forests turned into endless concrete. One of my favorite things about living here is that we're still really rural, at least in our part of Love County. I guess if you're going to be living in Caney, you'll be in a largely rural to semi-rural area too. Birds plant mulberries for me all the time and I spend a ridiculous amount of time removing them. If you don't remove the seedlings them while they're small, they're hard to get rid of. I never let the mulberries stay long enough for them to get big enough for me to find out if they are fruit-bearing or fruitless ones. We had mulberry trees across the street from us in Fort Worth when I was a kid, and also growing in the park across the street. I loved eating those berries, but do have vivid memories of the big purple blotches the berries left on the driveway and the roadway. Good luck finding a mulberry tree or two to plant. You also might look at the OK Forestry website. They sell small trees in bundles for conservation purposes. I don't know if they have mulberries, but I know they have some other native fruiting trees, so maybe they have the mulberries as well. They sell tiny trees in bundles in the spring, and you can order them right on their website. They usually get the order form for the current year up in January or February and there's usually a specific deadline for getting orders submitted to them. Dawn...See MoreRoot control bag to control Mulberry tree size
Comments (16)I need to irrigate if I want the trees to be vigorous enough to grow and, if it was my intention, to produce fruit. I use these bags in my bearing age fruit tree nursery and the first bag I used was Whitcomb's original invention, which he does not own the patent for. They are popular with west coast nurseries and manufactured in Oregon, It think. They work fine with drip irrigation and have a very dwarfing affect on fruit trees the way pots do. His second inground bag invention is completely different. It is constructed of a knitted fabric with visible holes that allow much more root to escape the bag. The roots do break easily when you dig up the trees and the roots on the inside of the bag are supposed to store a lot of extra carbohydrate because of being somewhat restricted by the bag and establish well with much less soil than BandB'd trees. The original black bags are the ticket if you are trying to constrict growth. I use them for my fig trees so I can easily move them inside in the winter. They do require less fuss than above ground pots and allow you to use soil instead of potting soil so you can grow more tree in fewer square inches of medium. Of course, only volume is reduced- not weight....See MoreFruit Tree Hunter! Taking Cuttings and Rooting Them
Comments (15)Can I get some advice please.? My Meyer air layer failed miserably... I noticed a few weeks ago several blooms on my two air layered limbs. Wasn't sure what was going on because they're 3 months after the first blooms. The limbs have been packed for about 3 weeks now so today I opened them up and found no roots. The smaller had split from the tree and was hanging by the plastic. The bigger was still in tact but no roots also. i think the main issue was that the peat had sagged below the limbs. Maybe not wrapped tight enough.? At this point what do you recommend I do with the two.? the smaller I put in the shade and left wrapped in foil with peat and removed the bloom. The larger is unwrapped on the tree. I guess this is the last whim everyone talks about when the tree thinks it's dying.? whats odd is the bloom continued to grow on the separated air layer... O.o...See MoreAnyone gotten ripe fruit from tree on US897 roots yet
Comments (7)My inside trees will be on US897 because I think it is better than PT or FD. It tolerates salt better. It picks up zinc and iron better. It handles higher PH. For my in ground trees I will be seed grown Meiwa kumquats and I will try Seville sour orange with a fukushu kumquat and one with an NZL scion. I would not want a flying dragon around here except under a Marumi kumquat. If I ever learn to graft better than 1.5% success Ill get a 4 winds Marumi and take buds from it to graft my Seville sour orange to a Fliying dragon. If you really want a superior rootstock that has everything going for it you need either a US942 Sunkist X Flying dragon, or Seville sour orange....See Morecopingwithclay
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