Well, since you're talking turfgrass, your options are somewhat limited. There's really no practical way to increase the OM in the soil in the near term. Keep mulch mowing. According to the folks at OSU's REAL, you're in the right range except for high pH, very low P and somewhat low K (link below to their Acceptable levels for lawns). Your dilemma is lowering pH while increasing P. First, before you take anyone's advice I would encourage you to discuss the results with your local county Ag extension agent. He/she will have local knowledge and can better steer you than about anyone else. With that as a caveat, I believe what you want is an ammonium phosphate fertilizer (e.g. MAP @ 11-52-0 or DAP @ 18-46-0 ), and then separately potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) to bring the K in line. All should be available from local ag/farm supply or feed stores. But, don't take my word for it - talk with your county agent first. Here is a link that might be useful: Interpreting a Soil Test for Lawns

Still, it's one thing to have someone tell you that finished compost will come out more pH neutral than tapwater and another thing to actually see it. LOL, I had to take several "control" readings with my meter just to make sure it was still reading correctly... ;-p

Sharon: THANK YOU FOR THOSE FANTASTIC PICTURES !! I also did red-cabbage test today Sat. 7/25/20. Distilled water boiled in red cabbage is actually acidic according to on-line info. "Pure distilled water should be neutral with a pH of 7, but because it absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, it's actually slightly acidic with a pH of 5.8." From your pictures above, the grayish blue solution is alkaline with pH 7.5. My pH 7.7 clay is a bit bluer (tested by Earth Corp. soil testing company). Black, gray, or clear solution is neutral pH .. means it's a fantastic buffer (good for plants). I tested COMPOSTED grass clippings and it's clear water above black solution. Buffer is great to neutralize the acidity of rain. Clay buffers better than sand/loamy soil, but the best buffer is composted organic matter. Coffee is also a buffer (at first pinkish, but after 20 min., it's a clear solution). COMPOSTED plant-matter is very alkaline and neutralizes acidic rain well. COMPOSTED leaves decompose to alkaline pH, when I stuffed a bunch of leaves in LOAMY & fluffy soil .. the next year that got converted into HARD CLAY, very alkaline. Green grass clippings stay fluffy longer (more nitrogen & more acidic). Brown leaves are considered "carbon" in a compost pile, and decompose to alkaline pH & hard like clay. My tap-water in red-cabbage is VERY BLUE, it's at pH 9 as stated on village's website. I also tested baking soda and it's more blue than my tap-water. I tested paver's sand or yellow coarse sand, and it's slightly alkaline. I tested composted manure and it's very alkaline (from the lime added to deodorize and kill weeds in the bag). The pH of composted manure is just as alkaline as my clay at pH 7.7. Your LAST pic. is slightly acidic. Rain-water is even more acidic & reddish purple. Rain water here is pH 4.5. I also tested some drops of vinegar and it's fuchsia red around pH 3. All my rooting-soil for cuttings are black or clear solution at neutral pH (they have lots of yellow sand or vermiculite mixed in). The clay taken from diseased & black spotted roses are slightly acidic, rather than blue like my pH 7.7 clay. I had tested 5 different roses with black spots in the past, and the soil taken from the root level is pinkish in red-cabbage juice. It's either acidic rain can't drain well from that spot, or else there's NOT enough buffer to neutralize the heavy rain going down.

A good lawn and garden begins with good soil. The best way to find out the condition of your soil is to contact a local County Extension office and get a soil test done. These are in most states but there are exceptions, CA and OR being two. In this case you can usually find a private lab listed in your Yellow Pages, on the Web or get a referral from a University or Garden Center. They are generally quite inexpensive for a basic evaluation (less than $10). You can get home test kits but the feeling is that the lab tests are more reliable. A soil test will help determine what your native soil is so you can select plants that will do well on your land. In most cases the lab will make recommendations for amendments you can add to alter the characteristics of your soil for optimal plant growth. Having your soil tested allows you to determine the best plants for your garden and gives you a baseline for improving it depending on the type of plants you wish to grow. Testing on a regular basis allows you to monitor the available nutrient, nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium and add what is needed for optimal plant growth and vigor. The best time to test your soil is in late fall or early spring. This gives the soil microbes time to adjust to, and incorporate the corrections. The Testing Process Most of the labs will send you the details on how they want you to collect samples but they are basically similar to this. Gather together: A Clean Bucket A Clean Trowel A Clean 1 Qt container for the sample Collect The Sample Dig a number of holes 6-8 inches deep in the area you wish to test. Take a thin slice from the wall of the hole and place it in the bucket. Repeat for each of the holes you dug. Thoroughly mix all the soil together. If the soil is very wet spread it out on some newspaper to let it dry a bit. It is important to have a dry sample. If the sample is too wet it can give false results. Place some of the collected soil in the container and seal. Mark the bag with your name, address, and date. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS GET PROFESSIONAL ADVICE BEFORE ADDING ANYTHING TO YOUR SOIL. THE FOLLOWING ARE VERY BROAD, GENERAL GUIDLINES AND SHOULD NOT BE DONE WITHOUT PROPER RECOMENDATIONS The testing agency can give you specific recommendations on amounts of material you need to add to get the desired results. Alkaline Soil-pH above 7.0 pH too low--Adding sulfur will lower the pH Acidic Soil-pH below 7.0 pH too high--Adding lime will raise pH Poor Nitrogen Content Addition of fertilizers Natural (preferred) or synthetic will increase the soils nitrogen content. Nitrogen Levels Too High It is possible to have soil that is too rich. Too reduce the nitrogen content water well and often and add no additional fertilizer till levels are reduced. Low Phosphorus Levels Bone meal or super phosphate will bring up the phosphorus levels. Phosphorus Level Too High Use a fertilizer that is lower in phosphorus and plant densely to use up the excess. Low Potassium Level Add potash to raise the potassium High Potassium Levals Add no additional potassium till levels are reduced. Side Note Gardeners who practice Organic methods have often found chemical additions to be a temporary fix. It has been shown that the addition of vegetative matter, in the form of compost, worked into the soil every year will usually have the effect of leveling out chemical unbalances. This often will have a much more permanent and positive effect. Improving Soil Texture/Drainage (Tilth) Soil falls into a number of categories. Clay, sand, loam, and many combinations. Each has distinct characteristics. Poor draining, unable to retain nutrients, dense and hard to plant in or work. In most cases the addition of organic materials will improve the condition of whatever type or soil you may have. A few of the things that are effective are: Compost Peat Moss Leaf Mold Shredded Leaves Thanks to all who contributed to this piece.