You're growing yours in a container? perhaps it's lacking some nutrients, you might want to switch your fertilizer. I have mine outside, grafted on a wild mulberry, it bears a crop almost every year. I'm in zone 6. I don't have any disease showing on the leaves. bass

Thanks. Good pix. Yes you have a disease. What kind of grass is that? I was expecting a northern grass but it looks like St Augustine. In the first one you can see spots on the blades. This would be gray leaf spot if it is St Augustine. In the rest of the pictures it just looks brown with no spots. That would be take-all patch or take-all root rot. I'm going to send you back out to look more closely at the grass right at the ground. Is it dying from the soil up or from the tips down. Pull up some runners to see what they look like. Black runners obviously is not good. Black spots at the nodes of the runners means still another disease. The problem with disease in the heat is many fungicides will kill the grass or not work at all when applied on hot days. Read the label carefully before you buy anything. When you find out it is too hot to apply a chemical fungicide, there is an organic approach you can try. Ordinary corn meal has been found to cause many diseases to die off. The disease is not killed by the corn meal but by another fungus that is attracted to the corn meal. The application rate is at least 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. You can use corn meal from the grocery store or you can look at your local feed stores (call first) for corn meal in a plain, 50-pound bag. Be sure they are not talking about corn GLUTEN meal. That is a different product. Corn is expensive this year so it might cost as much at $15 per bag (I used to buy it for $3). Corn meal takes three full weeks before you see any improvement. I would hit it with corn meal now and again in 3 weeks. Then evaluate in 6 weeks to see if it is working. If not, you have not lost anything, because you can't use the chemicals in the heat anyway. Plus you will find that corn meal is an organic fertilizer. Your remaining grass should be very deep green in 3-6 weeks.

Hello, I'm hoping someone with a little bit more knowledge and experience can help me figure out if one of the young Japanese maples in my yard has some sort of disease. The tree is only a few years old and actually started as a tiny seedling I assume from the seeds of one of the mature trees in the yard. The bark seems to have really deep woody ridges and sharp 'pimply' spots on the trunk and branches. When I broke off a few of the thinner pieces it was green underneath. At first I thought (or more accurately wistfully hoped) it was just growing bark weirdly, but it only seems to be on the upper side of the branches and 4 inches up from the base of the trunk (the bottom 4 inches look more like the bark on the other Japanese maples I have). I would like to move it as it's right next to our porch. If anyone could please help I would greatly appreciate it. I've attached some pictures as well.

Heh, I've been known to get into enough semantical tangles here, I'll just say, I know all too well the definition of the word weed as any unwanted plant. Yes, I get that. I just don't happen to agree. I think weeds are first of all, non-native plants, usually herbaceous or grasses, which arrived in this continent with agriculture. So, whoever planted the first wheat or whatever early crop, likely brought seed from Europe and that seed-as do most batches-had foreign material in it consisting of the seeds of various species that have since gone on to populate every disturbed corner. And that disturbance is a key component to what in my world are weeds.....species that actually require the constant disturbance that is farming (or construction projects) to take hold to any extent. But that's just me and a few others. Everyone's got their own definition. Our former golf course guy used to say that the trees on the course were just "hard weeds". He was a funny guy. +oM