Diane Pertson came up with a cure for chlorosis that includes lime since a pH that is too low also causes chlorosis. Here is what she wrote: Diane Pertson, Otter Point, Vancouver Island, wrote: "I have found the following foolproof formula for chlorotic leaves or a rhododendron that isn't looking healthy: Purchase a bag of Epsom Salts crystals (magnesium sulfate) (available here in bulk at farm-and-feed outlets), about $4.00 for a 5 lb. bag - and a bottle of FULLY Chelated Iron & Zinc (this is a very concentrated liquid - the chelation means it is in a form that can be readily absorbed by the plant), about $7.00 for 1 quart; In a one gallon watering can, put in 2 Tbsp. of Epsom Salts crystals and 2 Tbsp. of Iron and Zinc liquid - fill with warm water and stir to dissolve; Sprinkle this over the rhododendron - by that I mean drench the leaves with the solution and pour the remainder around the drip line of the root ball. In 1-2 weeks, the leaves should be nice and green. You could repeat the process at this time if the leaves aren't fully green. This works even better if, a month before, you have sweetened the soil by sprinkling a little Dolomite Lime on the roots. Very acidic soil can prevent the roots from taking up nutrients. As many of my rhododendrons are planted in very acidic soil under a canopy of giant cedar trees, I find an application of Dolomite and a light topdressing of mushroom manure in late spring is all they need. If soil is too acid, the symptoms can be the same. Very acidic soil can prevent the roots from taking up nutrients. In the western USA where many rhododendrons are planted in very acidic forest soil, an application of Dolomite and a light topdressing of mushroom manure in late spring is all they need. Sprinkle the lime on in late winter, very early spring. Don't overdo it - just a light sprinkle. If it is mid-spring, get the lime on right away so the rhododendron roots will be able to take up the soil nutrients in time for new growth. If you don't have rain, water it in well."

Thanks for all of your wonderful help. "The hot humid months are when rhododendrons are most likely to die of root rot. It is best to not water unless the new leaves are limp in the morning. They will always be limp in the heat of the day. That is normal. Do not let that bother you." Okay. I'll try not to let it bother me. Thanks for the tip on identifying leaves for stress. "I did that for a while. When the hardwood mulch decomposes it gets artillery fungus and also depletes nitrogen from the soil. In now only use pine bark mulch." So, you think I need to change to a different mulch. I suppose I can do this right below the plant but not throughout the yard, there's just too much of it. It is interesting what you say though. I had a Blue Spruce near where I have the Rhododendrons and the Blue Spruce died last summer, late last summer, from what appeared to be a fungus. I wonder if this artiillery fungus. It was definitely a fungus. "1) Hydrangeas thrive with aluminum sulfate. It kills rhododendrons. While hydrangeas need acidity and aluminum to be blue, rhododendrons are slowly killed by a buildup of aluminum in the soil." "2) Hydrangeas thrive in moist areas. Mine are planted in a bog and love it. Rhododendrons die in moist areas, they need EXCELLENT drainage." Well, I hope I have the skill to keep this going and water the Rhododendrons less than the Hydrangeas. I have them grouped about ten feet apart. I have never added aluminum sulfate to the soil. I have added acidfying soil conditioner this spring. Ultimately, I think I will need to replant the Cat Album Rhododendrons or replace them all together. Any other helpful tips to creating fantastic Rhododendrons in our hot/humid climate (zone 5-6), near Kansas City. What type would you select to plant here? I would like to plant azaleas too. Rhododendrons are proving to be the hardest plant for me. They like excellent drainage so I put them on a berm, but they don't like winter wind so elevating them is not so good. I don't have any azaleas planted but I once tried those too, and failed! I thought it was either because of our naturally alkaline soil (pH tends to be around 7 - 8) but it could also have been too much peat or too deep or too/not enough water... this is tough. The local nurseries and home depot are supposed to pay attention to our vicinity/climate but they sell Cat Album Rhodos fresh out of the greenhouses when there's little chance for them to flourish here.

Tlbean, now I know the tree you are talking about. I've seen them at biltmore estate and thought about planting one, but I would rather buy locally than mail order. I guess top on my list of redbuds would be Cercis Canadensis 'Floating Clouds', it's a really nice variegated cultivar. I'm also on look out for 'rising sun', 'merlot', and 'ruby falls'.

Are your rhodies near concrete? that can make soil alkaline, enough to bother rhodies. any kind of conifer mulch should help lower the pH. I mulch mine with whatever blows down out of the trees over the winter. Bark mulch won't make your soil alkaline and doubtful the store bought compost would either. You don't lime your soil do you, or add any kind of calcium fertilizer? Steer manure can make soil more alkaline. Not all soil in the same general area will be the same; here in western WA most soil is very acidic but I have yet to have a garden that didn't have near perfect pH for whatever reason. Soils that didn't form under coniferous forest or in a wetland will not be as acidic, so if you're on a floodplain or on glacial till you won't necessarily have acidic soil.