Gravy,,,I had to research since I've never propagated these seeds. One way to propagate is by sowing seeds, preferably in spring. Use moist, but not saturated soil. Place seeds on the surface, and barely cover with dry compost. Place the container in the dark, temperature around 65F. Success is erratic, and can take as long as 3 months to sprout a shoot. Normally they take 3-4 weeks. The big danger with these seeds is rot. Here's another entry: Gardeners in frost-free or light frost areas will find that Bay Laurel seedlings planted in the ground willingly grow into large trees, 38 feet (12 m) and taller; but when kept pruned the Bay Laurel tree can thrive as a small bush. Bay Laurel can also be grown in containers, the size of which limits the ultimate size of the trees. New plants are often started via layering, or from cuttings, since growing from seed can be difficult. Bay trees are difficult to start from seed, due in part to the seed's low germination rate, and long germination period. Fresh seeds with the pericarp removed typically have a 40% germination rate, while dried seeds and/or seeds with an intact pericarp have yet lower germination rates. In addition, the Bay Laurel seed germination period can be 50 days or more, which increases the risk of the seeds rotting before they germinate. Treating the seeds with gibberellic acid can be useful in increasing seed yield, as is careful monitoring of moisture levels in the rooting media.[7] Pericarp definition---In fleshy fruits, the outer and often edible layer is the pericarp, which is the tissue that develops from the ovary wall of the flower and surrounds the seeds. Hope this helps..Toni

Mark, let's see if this will be of any help to you. Yes, try heel cuttings. When in doubt as to how to root a plant I always do it both ways; heel cuttings and tip cuttings. As John can vouch, from time to time I post the following rooting method. Everyone ignores me except the pros who send e-mails pleased with their success in rooting difficult plants. I urge you to try it. Easy. Easy. The TOOTHPICK TECHNIQUE rooting method. This is done only in August. All cuttings have to form a callus at the cut end before they will root. This method allows a cutting to callus while it is still on the mother plant. Select a tip cutting. Look back along the cutting, selecting a bud on last year's growth. Now, using a very small, very sharp knife, make a single vertical cut just below the bud all the way through the stem. Suggest holding a block of wood behind the stem so you do not cut your fingers. Insert a toothpick through the cut and out the other side. If it is a large shrub/tree it is wise to tie some colored yarn on the cutting so you can locate it in the future. Once this is done, walk away and leave everything alone until Oct/Nov. At that time, remove the cutting from the mother plant with sharp pruners. Make your cut just below the toopick. Trim off each side of the toothpick if it does not slip out easily. Dip in rooting hormone. Your cuttings can be rooted in a greenhouse or cold frame. No misting necessary. I usually just tuck my cuttings to root up tight to the house foundation on the east side. Roots should form by late spring.

Thanks, Heathan1, for your response. I'll just have to unearth one of them and find out which .... they're taller than I thought - maybe 2 feet. If they're suckers, can I just dab them in rooting hormone and put them in soil, or what?

Yes, the where and how would be helpful. Have you ever fertilized this poor baby; Is it water-logged; or is it getting enough water that really wets the soil and not just runs thru'? I've had all three problems, plus an ant one that actually killed a thriving Bay in a huge pot. The ants built a nest with-in the roots. They must make some sort of coating to keep their nest dry because when I pulled the dead plant everything was as dry as a bone... roots, nest, soil, even tho' I had watered it regularly.