Yes, you have old dried fuel gumming up the jet and/or other fuel passages in the carb. The engine is running very lean right now, and the throttle you see moving is the governor trying to maintain a steady rpm (and not succeeding). This is very common, but it's not good to keep running this way for several reasons. If the seafoam doesn't clean it out and fix the problem, you'll need to (or have someone to) remove the carb, take the float bowl off, and clean out the jets and passages. If you do a search here, I think a couple of us ran through the procedure for someone else with as Kawasaki engine that should be similar to yours.

OK, I live in Australia and bought a Ryobi 30cc about 1.5 years ago. I don't recommend you buy one for the simple reason that the pull-cord is mounted mid-engine, not at the back like other models. When it breaks, as it surely will, because Ryobi carefully leaves a nice sharp edge on the inside of the eyelet, you have to pull apart the whole casing and engine to replace it! But, with regard to the line problems mentioned above, loading on new line is certainly a fiddly job. To help, Ryobi recently introduced a wind-on mechanism like Shindaiwa. But that doesn't solve the problem of bump line feed-out. Like 'weedwimp', my line tangles, melts, jams ...you name it! I spend more time fixing the damned line feed than cutting the grass! I've just had it with this hopeless bump system! It depends on so many things being 'just right' - the line gauge, the spring, the line tightness and neatness, the cleanliness etc etc. Last week, in frustration, I replaced it with Ryobi's 'Pro-cut II' head, using fixed pieces of line (as mentioned in an earlier post). But this design is also not great in that ~1/3 of each piece is wasted. Some recent Ryobi models include a fixed line head in the box, as a back-up - almost an admission that the bump-head is likely to fail. The market is screaming for a company to release a simple manual feed-out system. In fact, Ryobi could have just designed the wind-on spool head to operate in reverse - to feed line OUT as well - dah?! Otherwise, perhaps a turn-knob on the shaft attached to a spring-loaded cable which pushes down to the head and connects, to wind out line in a very controlled way, then recoils back - why not THAT edger makers!

I tried for the first time this summer and was surprised how simple it was. Here is a link to the method I used. Leo Here is a link that might be useful: The Rose Rustler's Toolkit

time to move down