mustangs - For relatively small amounts (1-cup or less), store your tomato powder in a dry environment - either vacuum-sealed or in a refrigerator (refrigerators are dry due to the frost-free feature). I keep a user-friendly amount in a pint jar in the refrigerator with some moisture absorbers in it (recycled from supplements we take) to keep it from clumping. When I open a #10 can of tomato powder I keep it free-flowing in a vacuum-sealed canning jar/s, FoodSaver canister, or some other container that can be sealed with a FoodSaver Universal Lid. I like to use the Universal Lids when I move food from long-term storage to the pantry, especially things I get in-and-out of frequently. -Grainlady

While it is really somewhat questionable to plant seeds from what are almost certainly hybrid tomatoes, since what you get may be a formally edible but unexciting fruit, it should be understood that planting seeds straight out of a plant is not optimal for germination. Mature seeds should be fermented, by placing them in water with some of the pulp and left in a warm place for a week. Then wash off the icky stuff and dry. Tomato seed harvesters know this strategy well. Here's why. When seeds mature, they are naturally encased in a protective gel coating. This is the slippery coating around seeds when they come out of the fruit. That gel coating has a hormone called abscisic acid that actually inhibits germination. That's why when you crack open a mature fruit, the seeds aren't all already sprouting! Microbial fermentation is an easy way to break down that gel, metabolize abscisic acid, and allow germination. Not all seeds have this protective gel. Solanacea and Cucumis commonly do. Some may say that, hey, I can plant mature seeds without fermentation, and they grow fine! That's because sitting moist in soil, especially anaerobically, the gel will break down naturally, But it will require more time, and may not work completely. That gel is natures way of making sure that new seeds don't sprout in the winter, but will wait a while, ideally until spring. FWIW, fermentation can also kill off disease spores.

Thanks everyone for your helpful feedback. Maifleur, I‘m going to follow your caution and will trash in any foliage and not reuse the soil for gardening. olejoyful — clever idea for your roll out/roll in planter. carolb, i agree the seed is probably some ratty undeserving mutant. I’m viewing it as an experiment. I’m going to give it a haircut, repot with new potting mix. Maybe add a bit of fertilizer with minerals. I may even get to Sal age some of the Thai Basil that got taken over. I have a bit of dilute “near edible” orchard spray that I put on some seedling to prevent damping off. Oh, and maybe circulating air. I just don’t want to infect any other plants. I’m thinking ii is a mineral deficiency, since the nearby geranium, fern, ground cherry and sage look healthy. I run out of energy so easily. Big ambition, no oomph! At least spring is here, finally. oh, and carolb, I hope you’re not near Piney Point. What a horrible mess In such a gorgeous area.

Hello, We are looking for growers who would like to receive between 150 and 600 free plants in order to conduct a small tomato variety trial. All we're looking for from you is to complete a survey at the end of the growing season about what you thought of each variety, and we will get you the plants when they arrive in early June. More information is attached below. This study is being organized by Ben Beale in St Mary's County and me in Wicomico but open to folks around the State. Anyone interested in the study can contact me or Ben Beale about receiving plants. Thanks, Haley -- Haley Sater, Ph.D. Agriculture Agent University of Maryland Extension Wicomico County Office 28647 Old Quantico Rd. Salisbury, MD 21801 Cell: 763-486-5307 Office: 410-749-6141 ext 115 HSater@umd.edu