Microphobik, Late Blight always begins with lesions on the leaves. Later, they are visible on stems as well. If the plant doesn't die within the first 2-3 days, it's typically several days (or more) later before you will see spots on the fruit. The spots on the leaves are fairly distinctive, so I'd try to determine whether you think that's the type of leaf lesions you have. Here is Cornell's page of Late Blight photos (scroll down). Note that none of these leaf lesions are small, round, dark spots. http://www.longislandhort.cornell.edu/vegpath/photos/lateblight_tomato.htm When I look at the photo of your fruit, I think the spot in the middle is probably sunscald (I almost never see sunscald here, so I'm not good at identifying it, but that spot certainly doesn't look like Late Blight). But to the left there might be a Late Blight lesion; I can't see enough of it to be certain. Generally newer Late Blight fruit lesions are roundish, mottled in color, and bumpy rather than smooth. (The Cornell photos of lesions on green fruit don't include any new lesions.) The good news is that fruit on infected plants are edible. Some people eat fruit with lesions, but I haven't tried. You can save seeds from infected plants and the LB won't be transmitted to the next generation. If you have had Late Blight spores in the area (they can blow in from miles away), they will continue to blow around and re-infect your plants. It's important to bag infected plant tissue and dispose of it off your property, as that reduces the number of spores. This year I had LB (that's 3 of the 5 years I've grown tomatoes here). I spent a couple of months trimming the bad bits off what was initially about 30 plants. A lot of time and back pain. There were victories and defeats, but I got some fruit. That's better than some years.... If you're going to be growing tomatoes on that property in the future, it would be a good idea to ask your local agricultural agent whether you need to take precautions in order not to infect next year's plants. In the U.S., freezing winter weather takes care of that problem, but there may be other variables in NZ. Disclaimer: I am not an expert, but I have seen a lot of Late Blight.

In containers or in the ground? Makes a big difference. Container plants normally require dilute feeding on a regular weekly basis anyway regardless of plant type. In ground plants are routinely fed after first fruit set and again 6 weeks later etc. But in that case it all depends on the type of feeding routine you are using (ie: fertigation vs. side dressing), the soil prep done before planting, etc. Dave

Be a lot simpler if you cold post a picture on this page with your message, woodzej. Dynamic lifter once a month might be a bit too often, once every 3 months is sufficient, and not at all during late autumn/winter.

I have planted (seedlings I raised in egg cartons with part of box)two lots of toms some time in September. One went straigt into the ground where they are supposed to grow and these ones are strugling, it might be that the soil is still too cold, the other one went into a compost bin, I mean I planted them into a bin with all the compost in it. If you dig deeper it is still warm and these are tall, healthy and they are flowering their heads off. I think the compost is keeping their roots warm (?). David, thank you for the seeds :-)))))))). The next lot will go into compost and potting mix in bottomless pots. Our soil is very sandy so I am worried about nematodes.